You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Good day all! Bear with me not car tech savvy, but learning. I have reviewed other associated threads and moved in the direction that some of you have suggested. Live in upstate NY and would like to have fixed soon. Here's what I've got going on.
Car: 2000, 3.0(Flex), 166K
Symptoms: Heat/Defrost will blow for a minute or two lukewarm at best. Then cold. Shut it off for a few minutes and turn on again same thing.
Checked (2 mechanics): Temp guage shows half way, Gasket seals are good, Hoses feel hot in and out of heater core, little white box with servo under dash works with temp select, 1 mechanic checked vents in dash all appear clear and functioning, fan blows strong, coolant level good/clean
New (because needed): Radiator, Thremostat, Bypass Line/s
Could it somehow be the heater core? Also, could there be something wrong with the hot/cold select switch on the dash (short) and how to check?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Golferguy
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on FordForum!
You might want to try to back wash the heater core. disconnect the heater hoses going in at the fire wall. Get yourself a couple of pieces of hose that are about 6'. I took a old garden hose and cut a split in the end so I can slide them on the heater core ends- it a little tight fit. Then I connected a garden hose to one end. I actually left the male end on one of the old pieces of hose so I can connect a good garden hose to it. Flush it with water and then swap the hoses and do the same the other way. I put the end of the hose that is not attached to the garden hose in a bucket and watch all the trash run into the bucket, then swap hoses again and watch again. I normally have to swap hoses about 4 times I run, I run water through the core both way until I see no trash coming into the bucket. This process takes about 45min.
Also get a couple of wooden dowels to use as plugs so you can plug the heater hoses so you won't loose alot of fluid.
I normally have to do this about every year and a half. When your coolant turns brown and you start seeing rusty looking coolant in your reservoir its time to do this. Also time to change coolant.
I've listed below the ford steps.
CAUTION: The heater core must be back-flushed separately from the engine cooling system for proper backflush water flow direction through the heater core.
DESCRIPTION
All engine cooling system flushing and back-flushing procedures must include a separate backflushing of the heater core, after the flushing or back-flushing of the engine cooling system. This will prevent engine cooling system particles from clogging the heater core tubes and reducing (or eliminating) coolant flow through the heater core.
PROCEDURES
1.Disconnect the heater core outlet heater hose from the return fitting. Install a female garden hose-end fitting adapter in the end of the outlet heater hose and secure with a hose clamp.
2.Connect the garden hose end of the outlet heater hose to the end of a water supply garden hose.
3.Disconnect the heater core inlet heater hose from the intake manifold fitting. Allow to drain into a suitable container.
4.If a water valve is installed in the heater core inlet heater hose, make sure the water valve is OPEN (no vacuum).
5.Turn the water supply valve ON and OFF several times so that the surge action will help to dislodge larger stubborn particles from the heater core tubes. Allow full water pressure to flow for approximately five minutes.
6.If a water valve is installed in the heater core inlet heater hose, apply vacuum to the water valve vacuum motor. This ensures proper operation of the water valve and proper closure with no water leakage. Replace the water valve if required.
7.Remove the hose clamp and female garden hose-end adapter from the end of the outlet heater hose. Reconnect the outlet heater hose onto the water pump fitting and heater return fitting.
8.Connect the inlet heater hose onto the engine block fitting and intake manifold fitting.
9.Fill the cooling system using the specified coolant mixture.
10.Test the system for proper heater performance with the specified engine cooling system conditions.
Flushed the system thoroughly. We get heat. Not not what you'd expect but much better than before. However, appears that the coolant level is slightly lower after a week. No noticeable drips on the ground and temp guage remains normal. Two mechanics looked at it and did not find anything. Any thoughts?
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
No Heat
