Crown Vic fuel problem
#11
11-20-2014 | 04:56 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15,302
I think your fuel pump is giving you notice it wants to retire and go south. The entire module isn't cheap, but that is the better way to go. I would get a Motorcraft replacement and try to get it in there before the white stuff falls and covers the ground and it gets really cold. Did you get a chance to block off the return line at the pressure regulator to eliminate that component. If the pressure still drops with that line blocked it has to be the pump.
#12
11-21-2014 | 05:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 35
I was afraid you'd say that. And due to health problems, I can't do the replacement myself. Too bad there's no way to access the pump without dropping the tank (I guess that's right). Easy to get to the bolts and other hardware, but I'm not sure there's room to get the pump out; pretty tight space it looks like to me. I think some of the Ford SUVs have an access panel under the rear seat, which I could handle fine. Probably wouldn't even have to drain the tank on those.
As to pinching off the line from the regulator, it is a rigid line inside a rubber sleeve, so can't do that.
Overnight this time, it showed as holding 38# , but when I turned the key, it dropped to 0. Of course, the pressure came back to about 32# in a few seconds. I've observed that the car will idle at 32#, with a "quivering" needle, but still 32#, then, upon shut down, the gauge will creep up to about 38#. I'm only guessing that this is because the vacuum is dropping to the regulator (as it should) upon shut down.
Ah well; I've had the car 10 years. It has 170K miles now. Only major things to go wrong were the torque convertor chatter, and that didn't really cost all that much. The trans shop I used has a remedy for that issue, by enlarging the passage in the valve body that supplies the convertor, thus increasing fluid supply. And the other major thing was the notorious plastic manifold crossover for the coolant cracked. That was about $600 total, with me supplying a new manifold and paying a garage to install it.
Oh, and I put a bottle of "Seafoam" additive in the tank yesterday, and that seems to have improved the fuel pressure issue some.I've used this in other cars; it seems to have a high recommendation.
Finally, I appreciate all your advice and help on assisting me.
As to pinching off the line from the regulator, it is a rigid line inside a rubber sleeve, so can't do that.
Overnight this time, it showed as holding 38# , but when I turned the key, it dropped to 0. Of course, the pressure came back to about 32# in a few seconds. I've observed that the car will idle at 32#, with a "quivering" needle, but still 32#, then, upon shut down, the gauge will creep up to about 38#. I'm only guessing that this is because the vacuum is dropping to the regulator (as it should) upon shut down.
Ah well; I've had the car 10 years. It has 170K miles now. Only major things to go wrong were the torque convertor chatter, and that didn't really cost all that much. The trans shop I used has a remedy for that issue, by enlarging the passage in the valve body that supplies the convertor, thus increasing fluid supply. And the other major thing was the notorious plastic manifold crossover for the coolant cracked. That was about $600 total, with me supplying a new manifold and paying a garage to install it.
Oh, and I put a bottle of "Seafoam" additive in the tank yesterday, and that seems to have improved the fuel pressure issue some.I've used this in other cars; it seems to have a high recommendation.
Finally, I appreciate all your advice and help on assisting me.
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edwardk
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09-27-2012 06:16 PM
