Have a 1995 Crown Vic, I need to replace all the rubber in the brake system, can't afford to pay someone, Need to flush brake system first, then.. as I can afford it, replace everything, master cylinder, ABS the works, poor, need the U-pull it not real happy about this , my own mistake for being in a hurry, put power steering fluid in the brake reservoir, shop wants $5,000.00.
Anyone got advise?, I know it has to be a alcohol base, not sure how to do it , book says I can't do it myself. Can I?.

 

When it comes to your brakes please do not take chances, a car without properly working brakes is a bullet that hasn’t found a target.

My suggestion is to park the car!
Raise it on jack stands and remove the, master cylinder, front calipers and rubber hoses, rear wheel cylinders, and ABS controller. Open all connections in the steel brake lines and use an air compressor to blow everything clean into a drip pan. Get a siphon blower nozzle and blow denatured alcohol through everything thoroughly, you can use brake cleaner but not as cost effective. I would do this a couple times then blow clear and allow to dry. Replace (not reinstall) all rubber hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and ABS controller, these items are now damaged and cannot be cleaned, only replaced.

Very sorry this has happened to you but it is important to your safety and those around you that you repair it correctly. Can you do it yourself, short answer is yes, but you will need to put the time and effort into it, it will not be a quick fix.

 

Richard you are rite, that is exactly what my book says,
I have never done such an extensive brake job before but I can't afford to pay $5,000.00 to have it done, and I can't afford to buy another car.
I think I can do it.
I'm going to get started, get all the parts and supplies priced, and make sure they have them, before I raise the car.

Two questions.

I don't have an air compressor, is that the only way to flush it?.

Aprox how many hours do you think it will take?..If everything goes smooth?.

Thank you.

 

I am hesitant to suggest you try this, but if you are like many I have come across, you will do it anyway. Better you have a little guidance than totally on your own.

Yes, an air compressor is necessary to provide enough pressure to force the fluids through the lines multiple times. Most areas have tool rental stores and you likely have a friend that either owns one or knows someone that owns one you can barrow. If you know someone that drives a truck (road tractor), those have an air tank capable of producing enough pressure (no less than 40psi) as part of their brake system.
If in a pinch, you can do this. NOT my first option.
Get one of those tire pumps you plug into the cigarette lighter (almost everyone has one) and buy a valve stem from your local auto parts store (around $1.50 depending on area). Once you plug the valve stem into the compressor it will blow about 30 or 40 lbs at the start, you “can” press this against the end of the line just before plugging it in (a total last resort move). If you opt for this, you will need a spray bottle to get the chemicals in the lines and please clear the lines many times.

Next thing you will need are line wrenches for your car. With the age of your car, it is very likely your lines are rusty and seized in areas, line wrenches are designed to evenly spread the force around the nut without striping it. Some nuts may require the use of a couple pairs of vice grips so you may wish to have them handy as well. Badly rusted or seized nuts should be sprayed with a penetrating oil and allowed to soak about 5 minutes, then loosen ¼ turn and tighten again, do it a few times back and forth until warm and it should come right off. Take extra care not to cross thread them during reassembly.

As for how long it will take, that is not really a question that can be answered. If the job came to me for a quote, I would count on a full day and the possibility of replacing a few ends but it could easily take you 2 to 3 days if you have no mechanical experience. I have been working on farm machinery and vehicles from the time I was old enough to hand my Uncle the grease gun.

Let us know when you are ready to get started, I am sure there are many that will help, but none are going to be willing to be responsible for any damage that may ensue from you doing this yourself. Brakes are nothing to learn on without help onsite when you do them.
**TAKE PICTURES** of everything before you take it apart, if you get lost or you forget how it went (very possible), you will have a reference to fall back on.

 

Before you dive into this job, might I suggest that you get a few more estimates from several trustworthy/ reliable shops. You just might luck out with one that is slow and has all the equip and knowledge to do this job correctly. Some of the parts like the ABS controller are not cheap and you may not be saving that much doing it all yourself.
The previous posts put it as well as it can be said, all in all, is there anyone other than this forum that that has the necessary experience and can oversee your work since you have never done this before?

 

WOW!...
First I want to thank you guys for all your information, it is very helpful.
I will take pictures, and I do have my nephew we text back and forth he is a self taught mechanic, and a good one, hes helped me fix many things on cars for years.

I can Barrow a air compressor, and I did get other quotes, close to the same so far, I think its because I'm a girl, one guy went as far as trying to tell me i had to replace the power steering too, I think even a dits could get that one, maybe not. sad.

I live in a complex that doesn't allow working on cars, but I have been here ten years and have done all my regular maintenance here and a few week long jobs, what I'm getting at is.... is there a way I can do this with the car jacked up on one end at a time? and put the car together at night so from the outside of the car it doesn't look like a garage in my parking spot?

Oh and for the record I didn't fill the reservoir, just topped it off,, about two tablespoons got in to it,,but I know that's still bad.

 

If you had caught it when it happened and siphoned it back out I would say you are ok, but once the fluid went into the system there is a chance that is too great to take.

There is no way I would recommend even trying this at night, not only because you are inexperienced but I wouldn’t do it in the dark myself, to many variables and you really need to be able to see that the lines are clear.

Girl huh, let us use this to our advantage LOL. Catch a middle-aged mechanic on lunch break and tell “him” your story. As a middle-aged wanna be mechanic myself I would be hard pressed to say no, would think of my daughter and what she would do. Not saying you should play dumb but you honestly do need experienced help doing this. It is likely either he or someone he knows will be willing to help you out with a much smaller fee, but you will need to have the parts ready at one time.

Doing half at a time is not really the best way to do this unless you can leave the lines open the whole time to reduce the chance of contamination to the cleaned part of the system.

Wish I could have been of more help.

 

I did a quick Google search and found this, it is a little more advanced than you likely need but there is a possibility you will run into most of what he covers here. Please have a look. You will have a better understanding of why we are reluctant you take this on alone, you could need every bit of knowledge he shares and more.



How to Replace Steel Brake Lines: Video Series | eHow.com

 

Here is some light reading. To bleed the ABS module, you need a Ford scan tool or maybe a really high dollar tool that will have bi-directional capabilities.

Section 06-06: Brake System, Hydraulic 1995 Town Car/Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis Workshop Manual

SERVICE PROCEDURES

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Hydraulic System Bleeding
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for service or replacement, air may enter the system causing a spongy pedal action. Bleed the hydraulic system, after it has been properly connected, to ensure that all air is expelled.


Anti-Lock Brake System Bleeding

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester 007-00500


Anytime service is performed on the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly, a special bleed procedure must be followed to make sure no air is trapped in the ABS control and modulator assembly. If this procedure is not done, the customer could experience a spongy pedal after he actuates ABS.

Using the New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester:

Bleed entire system conventionally using a manual or pressure bleed procedure as outlined.
Hook up New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester to the underdash serial data link connector as though retrieving codes.
Make sure ignition is in the RUN position.
Follow instructions on the NGS screen. Choose correct vehicle and model year, go to "Diagnostic Data Link" menu item, choose ABS Module, choose "Function Tests", and choose "Service Bleed".
The NGS will prompt you to depress the brake pedal. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH HARD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. You will need to hold down the brake pedal for approximately 5 seconds while the NGS opens the outlet valves in the brake pressure control valve block. When the outlet valves are opened, you should immediately feel the pedal drop. Make sure you push the pedal ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR (very important). The NGS will then instruct you to release the brake pedal. After you release the brake pedal, the NGS will run the ABS hydraulic pump motor for approximately 15 seconds.
Repeat Step (5) to make sure all air is flushed from the ABS unit. Upon completion, the NGS will display "Service Bleed Procedure Completed".
Repeat the conventional system bleed using a manual or pressure bleed procedure as outlined.

Manual Bleeding

The primary and secondary (front and rear) hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest line first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding operation, DO NOT allow the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with High Performance DOT-3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time.

NOTE: Non-ABS vehicles have the brake master cylinder (2140) mounted at an angle to the horizontal, bleeding may be better performed if the vehicle is positioned so that the brake master cylinder is horizontal.

To bleed the brake system, position a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn.
Have an assistant push the brake pedal (2455) down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the brake pedal to full-release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.
When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.
Repeat this procedure at the brake wheel cylinder on the opposite side. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled, and install the master cylinder cap and gasket. Ensure the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cap. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be at the MAX line to 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below.
If the primary (front brake) system is to be bled, repeat Steps 2 through 5 at the right front brake caliper and ending at the left front brake caliper. Bleed the brake master cylinder at the bleed screw after all calipers are bled.
After disc brake service, ensure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.
Check pedal feel. If brake pedal feels "spongy" repeat bleed procedure, or use the Vacuum method as outlined in Section 06-09, but bleed both rear calipers first.

Pressure Bleeding

For pressure bleeding, use a bladder-type bleeder tank only, such as Rotunda Brake Bleeder 104-00064 or equivalent.

Bleed the longest lines first. The bleeder tank should contain enough new brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation. Use High Performance DOT-3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system. The tank should be charged with approximately 69-206 kPa (10-30 psi) of air pressure.

CAUTION: Never exceed 344 kPa (50 psi) pressure.

Clean all dirt from the master cylinder reservoir cover.
Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir cover. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid. Install the pressure bleeder adapter tool to the brake master cylinder , and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter. Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools can be obtained from various manufacturers. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer to install the adapter.
If the rear wheel cylinders (the secondary brake system) are to be bled, use a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting at the right, rear brake wheel cylinder. Attach a bleeder tube snugly around the bleeder fitting.
Open the valve on the bleeder tank to admit pressurized brake fluid into the brake master cylinder reservoir .
Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting.
When air bubbles cease to appear in the fluid at the submerged end of the bleeder tube, close the bleeder fitting. Remove the tube. Replace rubber dust cap on bleeder screw.
Attach a bleeder tube and repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 at the left rear caliper.
On front brakes, repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 starting at the RH disc brake caliper (2B120) and ending at the LH disc brake caliper .
When the bleeding operation is completed, close the bleeder tank valve and remove the tank hose from the adapter fitting.
After disc brake service, ensure disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.
Remove the pressure bleeder adapter tool from brake master cylinder . Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line to 4 mm (0.16 inch) below. Install the brake master cylinder filler cap (2162) cap.

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Thanks again guys!

We have snow and rain today, not laying on the ground for about a week yet, I hate working with cold wet tools, and I don't need to add water to the mix, so I have time to read and talk to people I know that know what there talking about.

The parts store here will loan the NGS tester with deposit, so I'm good there.
It's a little over $400. for my parts and I get core returns.

Anything ells you think I need to know please leave a message .
Oh. and I am middle aged , so that's not gonna help Richard..lol thanks any way.