I want to convert my 93, cv to r134. If I have the r12 sucked out by a shop, can I replace the dryer, add the fittings, and charge the system my self? What do you guys think a shop will charge me to do everything? Money is tight; don't want to get molested. Thanks!

 

r134 can be used in a r12 system. There are adapters available for the quick-release fittings so the bottle of r134 you buy at a store will fit the r12 valve on your Vicky. Purchase a bottle of r134 with oil and a gauge, and do it yourself. Follow the directions on the bottle, and know the outside air temp.. Cost of a bottle should be less than $45.00. The adapters a little extra cost.

Nothing on the old system needs to be changed. As long as your AC system works, the r134 will work.

 

Thanks thexlo8ers! I guess I'll still have to have the r12 removed first. My receiver/accumulator looks like the original - rusty, and when I removed the cap from the shrader valve I can feel air coming out . I can get one cheap from ebay - wondering if I can replace it myself?

 

If it has a leak I doubt there is very much r12 left in the system. Does the compressor come on when you turn the switch to Max?

 

The compressor cuts on and off for 6, or 7, seconds. The leak is felt when the shraider valve cap is removed. It blows colder than the ambieint, but not much. Maybe I should have the remaining r12 removed, replace the dryer, and refill with
freeze 12 - it has good reviews, and forget about the conversion?

 

A compressor that cuts on and off, and blows colder than ambient temp. as you discribed means the system is low on refrigerant. This is a good sign.

To keep cost down, "money's tight", why don't you buy a bottle of refrigerant with gauge, adapters, and charge the system without removing the r12, nor changing any componets, and put that schrader valve cap on tight. I bet the compressor will stay on, and blow colder.

Then for the next few days monitor the pressure with the gauge, and see if it drops. If it does drop in a short time then change that line with the leaking schrader valve, and search for any more leaks.

I recommend this trial method, again, to hopefully save cost. The last time I bought a bottle of r134 w/gauge it was $24.00 at Walmart. Was enough to charge two cars.

Freeze 12 is r134.

 

Thanks again Thexlo8ers: From what I understand freeze12 is 80% r134a, 20% r142b. The r142b is added to carry the mineral oil inherint to the r12 systems as the r134 is incapable of doing so alone. On the vics, the low pressure valve is on the dryer! If opened the r12 has to be removed. I will probably add some freeze 12 to hold me till Spring, and then do a total r134 transformation since I plan on keeping the car.

 

No problem 3fords, and you're welcome. I take it you are in the Southern Hemisphere?

I'd be interested to know how well the AC works once you charge it with Freeze 12. And thanks for the skinny on the Freeze 12 blend.

 

I'm right outside of Wash DC which is the middle part of the northern hemisphere. Regardless - it has been a very hot, and humid summer, but it is 53 right now! I may wait till spring to overhaul unless we get another hot spell. I need to change my intake on my 98 cv, rotors, and pads, and many more things - you know the drill. If I do shoot some freeze 12 I'll PM
you; let you know what I think. Thanks!

 

the freeze 12 will cool better than r134a. duracool is better yet..

have the system pumped down and change the schrader valve and dryer. fill with nitrogen and check for leaks.. let it blow down/vent. pump the system down and fill with the correct amount of r-12/freeze/dura-cool. charts are available for the alternate coolants… the dura-cool charge is less than r-12 and cools better… the freeze is in between the r-12 and r-134a..
if you change to r-134a, you need to flush the entire system, replace the dryer and add the required lube oil. don't expect the system to cool very well.. as the r-134a systems are designed with a larger condenser and compresser. they are designed to run at higher pressures, as well…