1983 E350 motorhome shocks and bushings
#1
1983 E350 motorhome shocks and bushings
I've got a 83 e350 rv (27' Automate w/460and duallies) that I'm fixing up to use on the coast. I need to change install a radius bar link kit, front and rear shocks and a sway bar link kit. I can't figure out how to access the top nut on the front shocks , any help would be great!!! Also what's the easiest way to install the radius arm bushing kits? So far have flushed cooling system, rebuilt brakes from master cylinder on, lubed front end, regreased all wheel bearings and installed new seals, fixed numerous electrical issues on running lights, ground off all old sealer and resealed roof and running lghts. But I'm stumped by the front shocks, Help please thanks Tom also how do you remove the bushing from the sway bar link (lower bushings) thanks again Tom
Last edited by tomrj; 06-01-2013 at 12:40 PM.
#2
Tom if I remember correctly those upper nuts were a dog to remove because there was very little room to get up in there. I believe I had to use a pair of vise grips on the shaft of the shock and a six point 9/16 box on the nut.
As far as the radius arm bushings ,if the inner one wasn't worn too badly just replaced the outer ones. If the inner ones had to come off I believe the long bolt that held the radius arm to the I beam had to come out to move the arm forward enough to get the bushing off the end. You just have to make sure you take the load off the coil spring when removing that bolt since it holds the bottom of the spring to the I beam.
If there was an easier way to do this I was not aware of it.
As far as the radius arm bushings ,if the inner one wasn't worn too badly just replaced the outer ones. If the inner ones had to come off I believe the long bolt that held the radius arm to the I beam had to come out to move the arm forward enough to get the bushing off the end. You just have to make sure you take the load off the coil spring when removing that bolt since it holds the bottom of the spring to the I beam.
If there was an easier way to do this I was not aware of it.
#3
Hi Hanky, where did you access the top nut from, from under the vehicle or from on top thru the engine bay or from the wheel well fit the wrench over and around the upper spring coil mount??? thanks again Tom PS rebuilt the generator carb last night now install it this morning along w/ a deep cell battery and see if I can get generator working, and planning on attacking the front bushings and shocks tomorrow, thanks again for your input!
#4
This is taking me back a bit, but the only way I was able to get those top nuts off was with the wheel off and reaching up in there. When I was able to get the box wrench jammed against something I rotated the shock shaft with the vise grips. The shock was coming off one way or another and I didn't care if the shaft was destroyed by the vise grips. Soak the nuts good with a good penetrating oil. I had some that I even had to use a "nut cracker" on, to get them off. When it comes to replacing parts that are shot like those nuts I did whatever i had to do to get them off. I guess that was one of "Ford's better ideas" to place them where they were.
#5
Got them on and yes the front drivers side was a pia, we ended up torching off the old ones and had helper underneath inside of frame rails holding a wrench(after getting bushing washer and nut started) on top nut and tightened from wheel well by turning nut on shock shaft. I put on Monroe RV shocks in front and Monroe RV towing shocks w/ helper springs in the rear. It rides much more stable now and doesn't rock like a row boat when your on the roof working.
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