Updates:

8/24/2021: Taking a break, can't wait to start on the design of the interior. I feel like electric issues on a 30 year old ignition system may be out of my league as far as my limited mechanical experience goes. The shop should have hands on the van in the next few days. I will update with a report from them.

8/23/2021: Went through everything I knew to do again and decided to have the van towed to the mechanic ($65).

8/22/2021: Verified several steps relative to firing order and cranking. Still no start.

8/21/2021: Bought a multimeter ($50), checked voltage at battery and at ignition coil and found 12 volts at each. Formatted original post, got picture of van up, currently working out distributor troubleshoot with a senior member of the forum. Ordered Repair manual ($20) and Parts Guide $19) both from Rockauto.

8/20/2021: Bought van ($3,000), purchased battery ($200), distributor cap ($22), and ignition coil ($20) running to distributor. Drained rear gas tank full of coffee colored gas.



Today I bought a 1988 Econoline 5.0L camper style you can read about my adventure and progress on this thread. This is my first Ford besides a Taurus when I was first turned 16. There is currently
04327 miles on odometer, documents from 2013 shows 04185 miles. Same owner since 2008.

Last maintenance 6-19-13: distributor replaced.

I checked the fluids, removed a good bit of hornet's nest like a mountain's worth and started cleaning out the inside which wasn't really dirty just full of dead bugs and dust. I put jumper cables on the battery and tried it off of my car with no luck other than a slight groan. Went and got a new battery, now it turns over but doesn't crank. In between each of these steps I would try to start it with starter fluid into the intake. It's got a lot of winawinawinawina but no chickachickachicka if you know what I mean.

-drained gas tank(fuel was a gross brown color)
-check spark plugs they were good on the inside but rusty on the portion of the plug that was outside of the block
-use spark plug light bulb tester (with no light)-change distributor coil pack-use spark plug light bulb tester again (no light)

That's where I stopped today. I bought the distributor cap as well and will probably change that tomorrow. I think I can hear the fuel pump, if I put my ear to the rear gas tank and listen while someone else turns the key to the on position (but doesn't try and crank it) I believe I hear what sounds like a pump. I would like some guidance, advice, whatever you got really.

So I definitely have power because the battery is new. What's a good write up of the steps I should take. Here is what I think as an amateur:
-Add fresh fuel and a cleaner
-Buy fuel pressure checker
-What if no pressure? Does that mean a bad fuel pump or possibly fuel pump relay?
-I'm not sure of the little gadget I was using with the light bulb was quality.
-We took 1 plug out and held it to the metal frame and couldn't see a spark jump off there either.
-how can I better check for spark?

Thanks for reading

 

If it is not too much trouble , can you provide the first 8 digits of your VIN ?

From this we should be able to compile just what is on your vehicle. and go from there.

The biggest problem we may have is finding some parts, if needed.
You should be aware some rubber parts of the brake system may have deteriorated and will need to be checked thoroughly.
Also some vacuum hoses in the engine compartment might have cracks and not be in the best condition.
If it ran to get it to where it is , it should be able to start once fuel supply and spark are provided.

 

Sure thing Hank. The first few are 1FDEE14N.
Coil pack running to distributor is not making power when checked is what I have deduced today.Also has a tech guard security system I think is potentially causing problems.

 

When possible if an aftermarket security system was installed, we disconnect it to verify if it is the source of the problem. If found to be so, we just leave it disconnected or remove it.
Need all first 8 digits.

 

Added the other digits!
So inside the plug checker, I'm only getting very little spark. It seems that the only time it sparks is when the key moves towards the off position and the light will briefly flash. Coming off of the ignition coil harness is a small gray plug which I don't know if anything goes into. Leading from the ignition coil up to the distributor is an inline resistor I believe. I went to advance to look for an inline resistor and they had no clue what I was talking about. So I'm kind of stuck as far as getting spark is concerned.


Here you can see the ignition coil and harness with wire running towards distributor. Green with what I think is a resistor, it has a small current like symbol on it. And then the small grey plug which nothing was connected to.

 

While I start looking for what is on your vehicle , do you have anything like a test light or voltmeter to do some testing?

 

I have a spark plug light device which you attach one into the spark plug and the other end to the wire running off of the ignition coil. I don't have a voltmeter but can go buy one if you are willing to describe to me what to do with it.

 

I hope you know to change the plug wires from the old cap to the replacement cap you make sure the cap is in EXACTLY the same position as the old one, so when the new cap is installed the plug wires are on the EXACT same terminal towers as the old cap. One at a time !!!!!

When your key is turned on you should have 12 volts to one of the small wires coming to the coil. Is it there?

 

I just bought the multimeter I'm heading back to the van now.

I have not changed the cap yet but I figured the easiest way would be one by one so thanks for that Hank.
​Will update momentarily.

 

12.6 volts on the battery and 11.50 on the red and green running to coil.