My 1993 Winnebago conversion van with the 5.0 let me down yesterday as just as I started it up, it decided to strip the hex shaft that turns the oil pump, driven off the bottom of the distributor. It ran smoothly for a few minutes and then the oil pressure gauge dropped and the lifters started to rattle so I shut it off. Fortunately for me I wasn't going anywhere, yet so it didn't get to trash my engine (I don't think). However, in looking at what it takes to replace the pump and driveshaft, I might as well freshen up the engine while I have it that far apart. It appears to be very difficult to r&r the pan and oil pump with the engine in the vehicle and as it has 147K on it, I expect its time for a rebuild. It doesn't use any oil yet and runs perfectly so its a shame that I have to do this at all. I have a long time friend that used manage an Automotive Engineering shop and he told me today that I just need to fish the hex shaft out of the engine by removing the distributor and working the shaft upward and eventually out. I asked about the retaining clip on the shaft and his reply was "just let it fall into the pan, its too small to bother anything and it might come out with an oil change." It is an intriguing idea but my question is what keeps the new shaft in place and what about the "minus material" in the hex opening in the oil pump? His (Larry's) take is that the shaft is softer than the opening socket in the oil pump so he believes that the shaft just rounded off and a new shaft should last me a few more years. He claims that this is a pretty common thing to happen. I sort of wrote it off due to the fact that every vehicle he owns is a GM product and he loves to rag on my FoMoCo's as I have 7 of them. Anyway, anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?

 

Have replaced just the shaft before, and had no further problem. You need to be careful to mark the dist location in relation to the block and also note the location of where the rotor is pointing when you get ready to lift the dist out and where it stops when completely out because that is where it has to be when you install it.The rotor turns as you lift the dist out so that's why you need to mark both positions . Can be a simple job if done carefully. If the dist will not drop in easily , just rotate the shaft going down into the oil pump slightly with a pair of needle nose pliers until the dist will drop in with the rotor in the correct position to rotate as it goes down.

 

Hi! Thanks for the information. I have marked the distributor and rotor locations, even took pictures of them as I don't need anymore "senior moments" while doing this. My problem now is getting the distributor out as there is a little corrosion around the base of it where it goes into the engine and I cannot turn it. I sprayed the area with penetrating oil and will let it set overnight and try again tomorrow. I am glad to hear of your success in doing this as it strengthens what my buddy said to do, and I feel better about trying it. Will keep all posted, win or lose.

 

An oil filter wrench can be used to help get the distributor loosened.

 

Hi Guys!
Thanks for your interest. Winnie lives again! I made a tool to remove the shaft out of a piece of 3/8" stainless tubing, crimped for an interferrence fit on the shaft, tapped it down over the shaft, pulled it out, got a new Mellings shaft and swaged a homemade collar onto it at the exact engagement spot the retainer ring was on the original one, turned to collar down to .400" on my lathe, used the same tool that I used to pull the shaft out to replace the shaft back into the oil pump. Put it all back together and it runs just fine and has normal oil pressure. I am going to replace the cap and rotor and call it good. Thanks again for your interest.

 

Hello my names is lalo i got a problem with my van 93 ford ecoline 4.9 ... I replaced the oil pump, my problem is that when i take the old one i found out that i have to marks the distributor but the new one works but my question is how to put it on time....please helpp me