I've been having a hard time finding the right number for the transmission fluid capacity for my 2002 E150 V6. I see some places say 5 quarts, while some others say 14. Does anyone have a definite number?

 

If you just drop the pan and replace the fluid in there with the filter, 5 qts.
If you drain the converter , pan and change the filter, approx. 14 qts
Best to check your owner's manual or measure what you drain out and check against owner's manual.

Final check is at idle and operating temp.

 

Hi Hanky, thanks so much for the quick and helpful reply. That clears up a lot. I just bought my van at around 180k miles. Do you think I should drain the converter, or is that not necessary? This would be my first transmission fluid change. I had planned only to do the pan and filter. Not sure how I would drain the converter.

One more question, if I wanted to replace more of the fluid, could I just do two fluid changes? What would this process be like? Do I have to start the van between pan removals?
This is what I'm imagining for two replacements:
1. Remove drain pan to empty old fluid.
2. Replace drain pan.
3. Add new fluid to replace lost fluid.
4. Remove drain pan to empty old fluid.
5. Replace gasket and filter.
6. Replace drain pan.
7. Add new fluid to replace lost fluid.

Am I on the right track?

Lastly, is it even a good idea to replace more of the fluid?

 

On the bottom of the trans bell housing you'll see a rubber access plug. Remove it, mark the converter with a felt pen etc. for location/position reference.
Either, have someone 'bump' the starter to rotate the engine over as you watch your mark make at least a full converter (360) revolution., or if by yourself, use a narrow pry bar, sharp pointed driver etc and work towards the flywheel toothed ring gear, the converter weld band, applying pry/rotation tension to rotate the converter on over. You can also rotate the engine over using the harmonic balancer bolt, but the inspection hole method works well. If plug equipped, it will swing into view..
It should have a converter drain plug, but some didn't, more so if a reman unit. Later units the drain plug was omitted.

The trans pan will have a drain plug. A simple drain, and filter change is straight forward. Always make 'sure' the old filter sealing ring comes out of the case opening.They like to stick and remain.....

You could do the 'dilution' method. Meaning, if the converter has no drain plug, draining the trans pan, filter change and refill. Since quite a bit of old fluid gets missed and remains in the converter, I would drain the trans pan every few engine oil changes for completion , then extend to the next regular service interval. Some just drop the pan fluid on semi regular intervals, either way..No need to repeat the filter. With repeated changes, the old fluid would be cycled out with new....

Another option is to 'Exchange' fluid on non converter plug drain units. This method,, is to remove the trans fluid 'return' line on a heated unit. With a graduated measuring bucket or ? in place, with the trans return line (rear line) then inserted to capture the flow, start the engine at idle only. The trans pump will basically pump out the contents of the trans pan and cease delivery as it empties, shut off the engine as soon as it does. Seeing how many quarts/volume of trans fluid are in the bucket,, add exactly that same amount of fresh/new back into the trans fill pipe. Repeat until it runs clean, or about 3-4 cylces...

 

Hi Hayapower, thanks so much for your response. Lots of good information, but I think I have to go under the van and look around to fully understand what you're talking about.

Just to be clear, are you saying that if I:
1. Drain the pan.
2. Refill lost fluid.
3. Drain again to get rid of older fluid
4. Refill lost fluid.

That won't do much to get rid of the older fluid during the second drain? Will it just get rid of the fluid that I just put in, and end up being a waste of money? Are you suggesting to do one change, and then the next time I do an oil change, also do the transmission fluid? Is the reasoning behind this that the fluid will have some time to 'dilute' (as you said) while the transmission runs and mix with the rest of the fluid? Then the next time I change it, I will get some more of the older fluid.

Am I wrong in thinking that the refill after the initial drain will push older fluid out of the converter and into the pan? This is what I was hoping would happen, that way I could just do a second drain to get rid of the majority of the old fluid.

 

First thing is to check for a converter drain plug. Ford started to phase them out late in 01. If a reman, good chance it doesn’t.

Just draining and fill, and drain again does nothing but waste new fluid. The engine needs to run to operate the front pump in the trans which circulates the trans fluid. If you have no converter drain plug, then the choices are the dilution method as noted, or an exchange. Exchange is more involved, but gets quite a bit of the old fluid out during a few fluid fills.

If servicing the engine oil, it’s not much more work to slide the drain pan under the trans and drop the pan contents and refill as before.. If you drain the trans pan, new filter, I’d run it to the next oil change rather than repeated fluid drops in a short period of time...

 

Thanks so much! That exactly answered all my questions. I'll look for a converter drain plug. If there is none, then I will just drain the pan and replace the filter, and do the same thing at the next oil change.

 

You won’t need to change the filter each time...

 

I just finished servicing my 4R70W transmission which is what you likely have. I doubt you have a converter drain plug and the original pan will not have a drain plug. I ordered a new ATP pan with a drain plug.If you reuse the old pan, clean it and the magnet with brake cleaner. Use a straight edge to make sure the pan's sealing edge is not bulged out at the bolt holes. This needs to be flat or the pan will leak. If necessary, gently tap the bulging bolt holes with a ball peen hammer to flatten. I dropped the pan, removed old filter and let it drain for two days because I didn't need the car at the moment. I measured 6.25 quarts which came out. The original pan gasket is reusable and better than any folded up replacement gasket. I used an American(Motorcraft) not a Chinese made aftermarket filter and make sure you get the old filter's orange seal out of the valve body because it likely will get stuck in the hole.Put the new filter in place after you allow fluid to drain. Clean the pan's magnet, put back in place and toss the yellow plug floating around the pan's bottom. It is a shipping plug used at the factory, is not needed and its presense will tell you if the fluid is original.Torque the pan bolts to 10 FT-LBS in a criss cross pattern. With the new pan which was a little deeper than the original, I put a little less than 7 quarts of Mercon V back in to get the proper level.DO NOT overfill. Refill initially with the measured amount which you removed.Follow your manual for fluid checking procedure. I will then remove the new pan drain plug in a month to drain and refill, that will be good enough. That will be good for 50k miles.

 

When I read your post, had it in my mind your van was a 250. If it were it would have had the 4R100 which would have an OE drain plug in the pan. The 4R70W does not as raski noted.

When you start to drop the pan, to help control the potential fluid mess (if not on a lift) I loosen all the forward row of pan bolts a few turns. No too much so to weight stress the bolt/threads. Then remove all the pans rear bolts.

Next, all the pans side rows of bolts leaving ‘one’ on either side towards the back remaining tight. It will start to bleed off some fluid at the seem..
When the final ’side bolt’ is removed holding the pan firm to the trans case,, the pan can be allowed to be tipped slightly downward allowing the fluid to funnel out the rear/tail of the pan. Supporting the pan as it’s allowed to tip will help with any stress on the front/forward bolts.
Lowering the pan, attempting to balance full of fluid can allow the lube to travel down your arm or spill/slosh to either side potentially missing the drain container if not wide/large enough.. If the fluid is heated, better way to control where it goes

And as raski noted, the OE pan gasket is silicon/reinforced, reusable, and NO sealer ever is used. Checking for flat, and more so at the pan bolt hole will help with the seal. The small ball peen works great centered in the bolt hole to lightly tap back the area where the bolt heads generally bulge the surface out a bit.