I would,, at least to let them know ‘someone’ working on it missed something pretty basic. Could be they’d offer you some sort of credit if you’d feel comfy ever taking it back.
Sometimes something obvious gets missed, it happens, but if you saw the green corrosion on the cable, a tech should have. ‘Everyone’ has been hung up on the obvious, but you shouldn’t be left holding the bag....

 

Yes I’m with you, it should be mentioned in a nice way. Our organization spends $2-3000/month there so we’re a good customer. Perhaps we should scrutinize their work a little closer.

In their defense, when we were trying to figure out the root cause of the intermittent no crank, we thought the drip from the leaking windshield had something to do with it. Ditto for mentioning to them the fuel pump module mentioned by F150 owners. The response from the boss was a polite “oh we’ll find it” but what they ended up doing was sealing up the windshield and supposedly cleaning up some corroded connections under the dash.

It does seem that on a common American made vehicle, an experienced mechanic would know based on the symptoms, where all to check just to be sure.

 

Hi ,

I put in the new starter and then had to leave this for a month. Unfortunately, although the starter was on its last legs and may have been a contributor to the no-starting it was not the only cause. The no-start situation was reported to me over the past few weeks and indeed when I tried to start the van on Saturday it did not start but on Sunday when I went back with a test light to check for 12v on the starter solenoid, it fired right up and started again four hours later.

Can someone suggest a troubleshooting next step to isolate the root cause of this frustrating issue.

Thanks a lot !

 

Your starter needs a little (low amp) signal on the solenoid and a big (High amp) line to crank the motor. One of these is missing. In the past with intermittents like this I have run test wires. In your case, two lamp cords with two small twelve volt lights. When it doesn't start either one of the lights is not lit or the starter is bad. BTW can you hear the solenoid click?

 

Good suggestion, I have added a length of speaker wire from the solenoid terminal to a bulb in the cab that lights up when the solenoid gets 12v. Next time the no-start happens I’ll get to know the important information is there 12v at the starter or not.

If 12v is at the stater during no-start , then the problem is with the starter.

if 12v is not at the starter when the key is turned, then the problem is elsewhere.

 

The solenoid power closes a relay that allows the big cable from the battery to power the starter motor. If for whatever reason, the big amp power is not there, the starter will not spin. That's why I recommended two wires. Also, if you can hear the solenoid click that tells you something. Good luck and don't be disheartened.

 

Conveniently, soon after adding the light on the solenoid, the no-start condition happened and the light did not go on. It’s a brand new starter so it shouldn’t be the source of the trouble and now I can rule it out ...

When it doesn’t start , which is just occasionally, I turn key with trans Park, no cranking happens, light doesn’t turn on.

There has to be something upstream from the starter solenoid that is causing the problem. Maybe a loose wire somewhere or a bad module or something.

No amount of fiddling with the key or flipping it over or moving the shifter whilst key is held all the way in start or wiggling fuses causes it to crank and start, it just does when it’s ready to.

Any suggestions what I should check next?

 

Your vehicle uses a coded key , does it not ? If you have another key (second key , which you should have) try the second key
Also ,the security system in your vehicle uses the instrument cluster as one of the modules that work with the security system. If for any reason the system doesn't recognize the key the security system will prevent the vehicle from starting by disabling the starting system..
You should have at least 2 working keys and you can program addl keys yourself. If you have only one key and it doesn't work anymore you have the choice of having a dealer or locksmith come out and program more keys. Not cheap !!

 

The two keys we have do not look like transponder keys: one is a flat, all metal key, the second is the same but with a small thin plastic covering on the end , marked with “Axxess”, so it’s a replacement not original key.

These keys work most of the time. If the anti theft system is causing intermittent no-start is there a way to disable it ?

 

You don't have transponder keys. Now at least you know what is making the no start. If it's a security system issue there should be a light flashing on the dash telling you it's activated. I don't have a 2008 EVTM, but,in my 2011 it shows a starter relay in the Battery junction box. Pull that relay and spray connectors with WD-40 or contact cleaner. The 12 volts goes from F27 20a (SJB) to ignition switch, to start diode (BJB) to digital transmission range sensor (Park or Neutral), to starter relay pin 1 (BJB). When this starter relay in the BJB is closed it puts 12v to the starter solenoid. The starter relay 12v is from F13 30a (BJB), to C133 pin 1 (BN-GN) to starter solenoid.