Occassionally, yet with increasing frequency, my starter is remaining engaged, and cranking despite ignition, releasing the key, or even removing the key altogether.
Yesterday, I had to pull a battery cable to desist. I suspect a faulty solenoid behind this, but seek supporting opinion,

or any opinion for that matter.

 

There are a few things that could cause the problem you are seeing.
A faulty bendix drive
A weak or broken return spring that should disengage the drive when the solenoid is denergized
Possibly a defective solenoid
If I remember correctly the solenoid for the starter in that year is mounted on the fender well
Just maybe the wires on the solenoid are too close and causing the solenoid to remain energized
Insufficient clearance between the starter drive and flywheel not allowing the drive to disengage
By this time after enough of grinding and running , you might consider just replacing the starter with a rebuilt unit.
I believe it has only 2 bolts holding it in , easy to change.

 

The starter is about 5 years old, I had some electrical work done on it back then, and some additional fuses were used.
I do recall a special plug with this model starter, that once had melted, and created the problems, so I would prefer purchasing with a new one included.

While nothing has led me to believe the contacts in in the key switch are worn, any significant likelihood the problem could reside in the steering column?

 

The contact from the starter position of the ignition switch goes to the small terminal of the solenoid on the fender well. when you remove that wire from the solenoid it should not work when you turn the key to start. If you suspect the ign switch just you or have someone remove that wire when the starter is running, if it stops then your suspicion of the ign switch would be correct.

 

I see, remove the wire while its running (with the key in the off position).

Thanks Hanky, I'll post back the results this weekend!

 

In dealing with the starter issue, another problem took precedence.

My alternator was overcharging. The new problem is that this year Econoline has numerous alternators at varying amps. I already returned one that I discovered was entirely different, and today, having taken mine to the NAPA shop, exchanged it with one I thought was definitely a match.
This evening however, in preparing to crimp the wires for this one, I realized the plug for it is fixed into this model, and not detachable. Otherwise it appears the same.
Would this be close enough to be considered the same?

The parts clerks themselves have seemed puzzled by the variety, and I already returned the core earlier today.

 

I have yet to come across an alternator where I had to splice wires to install it.
Are you sure that plug doesn't come out?
I wouldn't use it if it is not the exact replacement.
If there is a shop around that will rebuild yours consider that.

 

I would consider a rebuild of my own, but already turned it in as the core.



Above is the plug I bought separately to install the first alternator I returned.

I assumed this one had one already, but found it doesn't unplug.

A tag taped to these leads reads:
Do not remove this lead!!
Crimp and heat shrink to existing lead

Earlier on in this thread I wrote about a plug that once melted, and created numerous electrical problems.

I was mistaken as it wasn't on the starter, this was the plug.

 

I guess you have to do what you have to do, but if it were me , I would try to get my old alt back and find a place that had the right one.
BECAUSE up the road when and if you had to replace it again , you may not be able to get that alt you presently have and it just opens a can of worms.
NAPA can get any kind of alt you need and you should not have to settle for what they happen to have on the shelf.

 

I think your right Hanky,
They should still have my core, given the three day weekend.
I'm leaving now, on my third trek, by bicycle, to borrowed vehicle, then back home by bicycle. Damn this van!