Have strong fire. Fuel 40 psi at rail. Emptied tank and added 10 gal fresh fuel and seafoam. Pops off with starting fluid. Will not even try to pop off without. Suspected ignition module was not communicating with the ecm for injector pulse so changed the module. No change. Tested pulse to injector with borrowed injector pulse tester for Dodge. Very weak light pulse but because I've never used an injector tester before I can't really say what the results mean.

Forgot to add that the fuel pump runs the entire time the key is on. It does not pump up and shut down as I thought it should.

 

Among the reasons the pump might run all the time are , fuel pump relay sticking, or staying energized because ECA is keeping it's pick circuit always grounded(completed).
Either the ECA has a problem or there is a short to ground between the fuel pump relay
and the ECA (computer)

 

Does it sound like the two are related? The no start ( non firing ? injectors ) and fuel pump runing constantly?

 

There are two relays located behind /over the battery. One should be the EEC relay that gets energized when the key is turned on and it should stay energized as long as the key is on. The other one is the fuel pump relay that should stay on for approx 2 seconds when you first turn the key on. If an RPM signal is received from the dist pick up coil and ign module as when cranking the starter, the fuel pump relay will stay energized. With no signal the relay is supposed to open and the fuel pump should stop. Something is completing the circuit to the fuel relay keeping it energized or the relay is sticking closed. That is one problem. With no signal from the dist and module the ECM will not provide spark signal to the coil. I would suggest that you check all the ground connections. That means loosen and tighten them. Something may be using the fuel pump pick circuit for its ground and not providing a ground for the other things to operate.

 

So far I've double checked my distributor position - it's correct. I've checked / cleaned all the chassis and battery grounds I could find and no go. I'm pulling the ecm next and at least looking at it and the connections.

Pulled the ecc and opened it up. Two capacitors are corroded and damaged ( one leg of one lifted off ) and the board and coating is blackened between the two. Hope it is a ecc fault and not something else that caused the damage. It looks like it is a leaking capacitor issue. I'm just replacing it. Already ordered. I'll follow up with the results.

 

I would think you found the problem. There were some issues back during those years where the computers developed a crack in the printed circuit board involving the signal return circuit(ground) . Since you found multiple problems there they most likely contributed to the problems.

 

The final chapter to this saga: Bad computer. Installed the new $77.00 ordered from AutoZone online and she fired right up. This was the cause of all things bad.

Thanks for all the help fellas!

clman - out.