Comfort Confort Panel
#1
Comfort Confort Panel
Hey All! I have a 1988 E250 club Wagon XL My comfort control has been damaged and I think the function control selector used a cable, It's missing. I got this vehicle used. I tested the temp. control and the cable seems to operate. I also need fuse location and or amps to check that. I would assume key needs to be in run condition to make the fan run.
Thanks for any info you might share.
BilldarrAZ, Tucson
Thanks for any info you might share.
BilldarrAZ, Tucson
#2
If I may ask, why do you suspect damage and I don't believe they used a cable for function selection. I believe the function selector used vacuum to select the desired function.
Yes the key has to be in the on position for the fan (blower) to run And they usually had lo, med and hi speed. High speed is controlled by a separate hi speed relay due to the high current load of the blower motor. The slower speeds went through a blower motor resistor.
Yes the key has to be in the on position for the fan (blower) to run And they usually had lo, med and hi speed. High speed is controlled by a separate hi speed relay due to the high current load of the blower motor. The slower speeds went through a blower motor resistor.
#3
to answer a few questions... There is no de-dent or physical click on any of the selections. I do see a hole and cable end guide similar to the temp control, that is why I assume a cable is missing. I have a multi color vacuum lines connection to a black/yellow function slide that is connected to the temp. lever. I was surprised as it seems to me to be reversed! Remember I'm MOPAR guy!!!
Also fuse or Circuit breaker. I checked 20Amp as I'm assuming a large current drawl on the system. There is a 70A circuit breaker on my fuse panel. I assume that is over protection of the electrical system. I also observed 3 relays mounted on the driver side fender well. One is lower then the others; I thought fuel pump relay. The other two are simular. I don't have a fuse panel lay out or one in my Haynes manual. I hope this helps answer your question. My Multi-meter is currently missing a probe lead set, so measuring at this time isn't possible.
Thanks.
Also fuse or Circuit breaker. I checked 20Amp as I'm assuming a large current drawl on the system. There is a 70A circuit breaker on my fuse panel. I assume that is over protection of the electrical system. I also observed 3 relays mounted on the driver side fender well. One is lower then the others; I thought fuel pump relay. The other two are simular. I don't have a fuse panel lay out or one in my Haynes manual. I hope this helps answer your question. My Multi-meter is currently missing a probe lead set, so measuring at this time isn't possible.
Thanks.
#4
From what you describe , it sounds like something may be reversed. The temp lever just controls the position of a blend door , that's it! If they have it doing anything else, you will need to get some better info to trace what they might have altered.
#6
TO: FORD Group
'88 E250 Update... I'm sharing my findings to perhaps help someone else.
I have replaced my Comfort Control panels' vacuum selector. temperature and function selectors. I missed the dual slots but when I removed the panel, disconnected the wiring harness and turned the unit side ways... I realize there are two levers slots in the switch. I expected only one. Removing the connector was hard and doing it without breaking locking tabs made it harder! I did do it.
I reinstalled it and and went forward under the hood to find a vacuum source that attaches to the vacuum connector on the side on the new module. I removed the air filter box and connecting tubes. Searching for a vacuum line that seem to be disconnected or blocked-off. I assume the “HVAC” didn't work for sometime. My source tube is yellow. I search for several hours trying to find a very small male tube connection near the Throttle Body. I found a “Y” tube connector about 3/16 diameter. It was connected to both venturi tube, thus providing a STD source of vacuum. I followed the hose to a “Splice” connector. This is where I'm assuming is my source for the “yellow” tube to Comfort control pane. I buy a few fitting to go further. Any comments to help is appreciated, in case I'm on the wrong track.
Thanks, ALL!
BilldarrAZ
'88 E250 Update... I'm sharing my findings to perhaps help someone else.
I have replaced my Comfort Control panels' vacuum selector. temperature and function selectors. I missed the dual slots but when I removed the panel, disconnected the wiring harness and turned the unit side ways... I realize there are two levers slots in the switch. I expected only one. Removing the connector was hard and doing it without breaking locking tabs made it harder! I did do it.
I reinstalled it and and went forward under the hood to find a vacuum source that attaches to the vacuum connector on the side on the new module. I removed the air filter box and connecting tubes. Searching for a vacuum line that seem to be disconnected or blocked-off. I assume the “HVAC” didn't work for sometime. My source tube is yellow. I search for several hours trying to find a very small male tube connection near the Throttle Body. I found a “Y” tube connector about 3/16 diameter. It was connected to both venturi tube, thus providing a STD source of vacuum. I followed the hose to a “Splice” connector. This is where I'm assuming is my source for the “yellow” tube to Comfort control pane. I buy a few fitting to go further. Any comments to help is appreciated, in case I'm on the wrong track.
Thanks, ALL!
BilldarrAZ
Last edited by BilldarrAZ; 07-23-2014 at 11:26 PM.
#7
E250 - 1988
Hello! Follow up to my part time troubleshooting and repair of the "Comfort Control" I found the Orang black tracer wire, I was about to cut and splice in my own as no power there. I checked the fuse, #9 I think, 15a many times but no power, fuse checked good.
I have a SOP (Standard operating procedure) or plugging on and off 3 times to wipe dust/dirt/light corrosion off contact, that didn't work her I went to 10 times as corosion here in the Desert can be a difficult to see issue.
I finally got voltage at the speed switch!!! Next I replace the relay to ground, as a note it does all speeds! I orginal was okay but up graded anyway,,, there 25 years old! I remove the resistors module from the blower motor housing, the plastic connect was very damaged and plastic was discinagration. I repaired flaking off insulation with plastic electrical tape, now the resistor (30 in series have a thermo-protector device, not unlike coffee pots to prevent a fire if too hot but over years it was approching 15,000.000 ohms, yes meg-ohms no current flow here!!! Ther are newer device which reset when cooled off. I haven't got one but I'm thinking about it! I used a #18 stripped wired, clipped out the thermo-protector (looks like a diode but pointed on one end) I soldered the replacement wire to the clipped leaded who's end are sort of crimped in to two sliced slot in the mounting tab. Not exactly the best thing to do... but I'm troubleshoot and component testing! Well after hanging the repaired module in the open air, I reconnected the switches in the dash switched on Ing. power and the front fan started!!!! I brooked into my HAPPY DANCE!!! It was a Sight!!!! I later tried mt read heated fan and both switch al Mutli-speeds work!!!! Thanks to a circuit supplied from a local repair shop... I totally understand FORD Electrical Engineers thinking very different from"Doom" delay module missing and need a little help with this one too.
Bill Tust, BilldarrAZ in Tucson.
I have a SOP (Standard operating procedure) or plugging on and off 3 times to wipe dust/dirt/light corrosion off contact, that didn't work her I went to 10 times as corosion here in the Desert can be a difficult to see issue.
I finally got voltage at the speed switch!!! Next I replace the relay to ground, as a note it does all speeds! I orginal was okay but up graded anyway,,, there 25 years old! I remove the resistors module from the blower motor housing, the plastic connect was very damaged and plastic was discinagration. I repaired flaking off insulation with plastic electrical tape, now the resistor (30 in series have a thermo-protector device, not unlike coffee pots to prevent a fire if too hot but over years it was approching 15,000.000 ohms, yes meg-ohms no current flow here!!! Ther are newer device which reset when cooled off. I haven't got one but I'm thinking about it! I used a #18 stripped wired, clipped out the thermo-protector (looks like a diode but pointed on one end) I soldered the replacement wire to the clipped leaded who's end are sort of crimped in to two sliced slot in the mounting tab. Not exactly the best thing to do... but I'm troubleshoot and component testing! Well after hanging the repaired module in the open air, I reconnected the switches in the dash switched on Ing. power and the front fan started!!!! I brooked into my HAPPY DANCE!!! It was a Sight!!!! I later tried mt read heated fan and both switch al Mutli-speeds work!!!! Thanks to a circuit supplied from a local repair shop... I totally understand FORD Electrical Engineers thinking very different from"Doom" delay module missing and need a little help with this one too.
Bill Tust, BilldarrAZ in Tucson.
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