E-250 shuttle door wont open
#1
E-250 shuttle door wont open
Hi, I have a question about an e-250 that we use as a shuttle. It has electric/hydraulic doors that open with a switch on the dash. Yesterday the door only opened halfway but when i manually depressed one of the microswitches in the hardware above the door it would fully open. because of this i assumed it was the microswitch and i ordered a new one. Now, after swapping both switches back and forth they no longer work. I have a hunch there is a blown fuse but i dont know where it would be. I am having a hard time getting a reading on my multimeter but it doesnt seem like any power is coming across.
Any suggestions? sorry its a bit of a confusing post im just rushing to get this fixed by tomorrow.
Any suggestions? sorry its a bit of a confusing post im just rushing to get this fixed by tomorrow.
#4
Since we don't know just which fuse might protect the electric doors,we can use the multimeter to check the fuses.
With the meter set to measure voltage and the black test lead clamped on to the negative battery terminal, or a good ground, just take the red-positive probe and check every fuse at the top where you can see the prongs that go into the fuse holders.
When you touch one side of the fuse you should get a 12 volt reading and when you touch the other side of the same fuse ,the one with no reading on both sides is blown.
Some fuses will not show any reading unless the key is in the on position.
Things like motors usually have a fairly large rated fuse. `Some also use circuit breakers.
These steps should assist with narrowing down the problem.
Some of the fuses you are going to check could be rated at 30 to 40 amp rating, also known as Maxi-fuses.
Let us know if this was any help.
Last , but not least there could be a fusible link in the circuit, but if the previous steps don't locate the problem we can go there.
Not knowing if a relay is involved, we can check that too if necessary.
With the meter set to measure voltage and the black test lead clamped on to the negative battery terminal, or a good ground, just take the red-positive probe and check every fuse at the top where you can see the prongs that go into the fuse holders.
When you touch one side of the fuse you should get a 12 volt reading and when you touch the other side of the same fuse ,the one with no reading on both sides is blown.
Some fuses will not show any reading unless the key is in the on position.
Things like motors usually have a fairly large rated fuse. `Some also use circuit breakers.
These steps should assist with narrowing down the problem.
Some of the fuses you are going to check could be rated at 30 to 40 amp rating, also known as Maxi-fuses.
Let us know if this was any help.
Last , but not least there could be a fusible link in the circuit, but if the previous steps don't locate the problem we can go there.
Not knowing if a relay is involved, we can check that too if necessary.
Last edited by hanky; 03-02-2012 at 06:22 PM.
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