So I have resolved the fuel pump and after a day or two the same symptoms happened. I have proper psi in the fuel line. I have now noticed that at start up she idles high.

in the last two months, she has gotten new plugs, wires, cap, belt, air idle control valve, tos sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter air filter and I am still at a loss

with as much that has been done could the timing be offf and would something like that cause symptoms like this? Love my van but if it had a face I would punch it right now.

 

As you know the engine requires a sufficient quantity of fuel and spark at the right time.
Hopefully,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you eliminated the fuel system.

What we need to check next is the ign system.. Anything heavy on the key ring that is causing the ign to momentarily shut off ?

If not, then you will need to look for possible loose or poor connections from ign sw to module to coil. You replaced possibly a lot of good parts no fun there.
Those ign coils, if original, had internal problems where they broke down under load, you might want to check that out.

 

So i am still running into the same problem. Actually took her to a mechanic and they were at a loss. They thought maybe my distributor so i bit the bullet and replaced. Did a test drive and she just dies outta nowhere and then comes back to life and drives fine again. I thought maybe my fuel pump was loose inside its holder and it kept grounding out so i made sure that was nice and snug. But i just took it for a drive and the same thing. I could cruise at 30-35 mph and then it will suddenly die and i'll coast for a 3-5 seconds then she comes back to life.

I have been a landcruiser guy all my life and know those things like the back of my hand but i never ran into an issue like this.

 

This is what I would do.
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the connection on the fuel rail, place the gauge where I could see it and drive the vehicle some and watch the pressure when the problem appears. If the pressure goes down just before the engine decides to quit , we have just confirmed it is a fuel supply problem. If the engine quits and the fuel pressure doesn't drop that much,we would look for an ignition problem. Don't forget the fuel system is electrically controlled, so the testing would not stop there.
Depending on what you report will deter,mine where we go next.Can you do this?

 

So i am back to square 1. She is still dying on me while driving and then comes back to life. No sputtering or kick back when she comes back on. I have checked my fuel pressure and that is still within specs. But since my last updated i have replaced the ignition coil and the ignition switch and still no change although when she isn't cutting in and out she drives great. Just wish she could drive great all the time.

 

Did you have the fuel pressure gauge connected where you could see it while driving ?

We need to know what that fuel pump is doing when the problem appears. Don't forget the fuel pump is controlled electrically and if you installed a new pump and the signal to keep it running is electrical we can't keep replacing things hoping to hit the problem.

Until we know what we have we are working blind.

 

Try to borrow an and show us what codes you get. It's okay if you can't get/borrow one.
Your symptoms could be MAP's fault and I could show you the diagnostic procedure on that.

 

hey Heiko, so i took a look at my MAP sensor and i noticed the vacuum line from the MAP is not connected to anything. Were does that vacuum line connect too? That may be the root of my issues right there.

 

The vacuum line should go to intake manifold. I don't have any service manual to give you the exact location. Look around your intake manifold you should be able to locate that.
Once you get the line connected if you still experience the issue while driving, try to keep the line connected, and disconnect just the 3-pin electrical connector, this could put your car in limp (safe) mode for diagnostic purpose to see if you are still experiencing any sputtering and stalling while driving. Please keep in mind that your van could lose some power and give you weirdness when driving in limp mode, so just drive safe and don't go on the freeway. Say that's the root cause and you get your MAP replaced, the sputtering and stalling should be gone without erasing the trouble codes.

 

Would i need to access that location from the inside of the van or can i get to it from under the hood?