Hi everyone, new to the forum, but I hope someone is able to help me out. And thank you in advance! So I recently purchased a 2011 E250 for work, it has 159k miles on it. It has the 4.6l 2 valve engine. When I bought it, the owner said he had it to a shop and it needed an oil pump because it was only putting out about 7psi on start up, and 11psi after running a few minutes. So I replaced the oil pump, new chains, guides, and tensioners, and replaced the water pump, you know, all the usuals while you have the front end torn apart. After doing so, it still has the same symptoms as before I touched it.
On start up, quiet as a mouse
After it warms up, getting a tapping from the passenger side
However, there is a slight plot twist, even after warmed up, the tapping only occurs above roughly 1700 rpms, at idle its quiet.
Louder on decel, then accel
When I changed the oil (used 5-20), it was quiet at higher rpms for slight period of time (until the oil drained back down into the pan)
I pulled the valve cover off that side, blew out the oil passages, started it up, and there was hardly any oil coming into the valvetrain. The lash adjusters were just kind of "spitting" no real flow coming from them. Seemed to have decent flow from the rear cam cap. I haven't had a chance to get an actual reading on the oil pressure yet, need to pick up a gauge and fittings.
So my thought is (correct me if I'm off target), that I'm not getting enough oil to that side of the engine. I heard that the passenger side head is the last place that gets oil because of how it flows through the engine.
My questions are:
Could it be a faulty pump (brand new melling)?
Could there be a restriction in the passages?
Are the tolerances too much between the components that its not maintaining pressure throughout the engine? (When I pulled the rear cam cap off, I took notice of some scarring on the journals)
Which leads to, should I try the High Volume Pump alternative?
Would a thicker viscosity help get the oil to where its needed?
I'm just at a loss right now, and could use some experienced help on this, Thanks again.

Very sorry if something like this was discussed before and I haven't seen the thread

 

One way to possibly pin down the problem would be to check oil pressure readings with a mechanical gauge starting at the closest location to the oil pump and work your way back from there to the place where you lose the pressure.
Scored /worn cam brgs can cause loss of oil press.
Of course we don't know what kind of maintenance the vehicle rec'd from the previous owner . Neglected /improper maintenance in the 159 K mi. could have some bearing on the situation. If you are not equipped to do the checks due to not having the equip., have someone that can verify, if pressure is being lost within the engine.
Once you know where you stand, you can decide the next course of action.

 

Thank you for the speedy reply. I will pick up a gauge and see what I can find out. Is there any resource material floating around to show where the best points are for tapping into for oil pressure testing? I realize I’ll be starting at filter/sending unit, just not sure where the other ports would be.

 

Check the oil restrictor on the rear of the right side head under the cam bearing cap..If you compare it to the one on the driver's side when cranking the engine over. A tube protruding out could be blocked .check for any addl obstruction.

 

Will do, thank you!

 

Check pressure at the port which the sending unit resides. If it is low, no need going downstream. Oil pump, pickup screen or bearing issues exists. You can use plastigauge to check your bearings.A stock pump should be able to deliver 40-60 psi on a warm engine at 2000 rpm.

 

So here are the results of the pressure test:

At the sending unit:
Cold start - hit 60 psi
Dropped to - about 40 psi
Operating temp - about 20 psi
2000 rpm - 30-35 psi
Back to idle - about 15 psi

Left Head:
Operating temp idle - 10-12 psi
2000 rpm - 20 psi
Back to idle - 10-12 psi

Right Head:
Operating temp - 10-12 psi
2000 rpm - 20 psi
Back to idle - 10-12 psi

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Also, I forgot to mention earlier, I have not pulled the pan to inspect the pick up screen yet.
There is a video attached in case it helps, you can hear how its quiet at idle and then starts making noise at 1700-2000 rpm, thanks!!!

 

From what I have researched, you are a little low. at 2000 rpm(warm), you want atleast 40. Unfortunately the spec is at 2k rpm and one is not mentioned at idle.

 

Yeah, I read somewhere that Ford lowered acceptable pressure to 15, but I physically saw hardly any oil at all on that right valve train when I ran it with the valve cover off. I don't know, guess i'll just keep messing with it.

 

If you remove that rear cam bearing mount on the right side cam , you should see the restrictor sticking out. If you crank the engine over (Pull fuel pump fuse) you should see a healthy flow of oil coming out of there.If not , find out why.