Runs bad after tune-up!
#1
Runs bad after tune-up!
Ran perfectly!
Only because it had 100k and a slightly leaking heater tube on the intake manifold, I tore down the top of my 97 econoline Triton 5.4l.
I replaced the tube, replaced the plugs, injectors, and coil caps, gaskets, and rotted vacuume lines.
I carfully reassembled and properly reconnected all caps and injectors, replaced suspect vent/vacuume lines.
I checked for any vacuume leaks, all ports were accounted for and connected.
It now starts fine, idles reasonably well, but won't take throttle without popping and sputtering and not excelerating.
Help!
Thanks in advance.
JoelH
Only because it had 100k and a slightly leaking heater tube on the intake manifold, I tore down the top of my 97 econoline Triton 5.4l.
I replaced the tube, replaced the plugs, injectors, and coil caps, gaskets, and rotted vacuume lines.
I carfully reassembled and properly reconnected all caps and injectors, replaced suspect vent/vacuume lines.
I checked for any vacuume leaks, all ports were accounted for and connected.
It now starts fine, idles reasonably well, but won't take throttle without popping and sputtering and not excelerating.
Help!
Thanks in advance.
JoelH
#2
My bet is the wiring for the injectors or coils got mixed up. If you are very certain that is not the case, one of your new parts may be faulty. Since you changed everything at the same time, verifying that will be challenging.
#3
It's so frustrating.
Last edited by JoelH.; 02-19-2022 at 05:07 AM.
#4
Hi Joe,
Is it possible you have all the vacuum hoses connected, but could they be in the wrong place?
Sometimes vacuum is blocked off until a certain condition is met and then vacuum is allowed to pass?
If there is a lean condition , it might idle a little faster, but on acceleration can't run up smoothly because there is not enough fuel OR TOO MUCH AIR > LEAN CONDITION.
There could be a few other possible reasons , but we need to take them one at a time.
Did you check to make sure the PCV system is not allowing in extra air?
It is possible something just developed after you did all your work, right now anything is possible until you recheck all work you did and keep a sharp eye out for anything unusual. Sometimes it can be staring you in the face and we don't notice it right away.
Is it possible you have all the vacuum hoses connected, but could they be in the wrong place?
Sometimes vacuum is blocked off until a certain condition is met and then vacuum is allowed to pass?
If there is a lean condition , it might idle a little faster, but on acceleration can't run up smoothly because there is not enough fuel OR TOO MUCH AIR > LEAN CONDITION.
There could be a few other possible reasons , but we need to take them one at a time.
Did you check to make sure the PCV system is not allowing in extra air?
It is possible something just developed after you did all your work, right now anything is possible until you recheck all work you did and keep a sharp eye out for anything unusual. Sometimes it can be staring you in the face and we don't notice it right away.
#5
Take a look at your fuel trims. If you are too lean due to a vacuum leak, your trims will be highly on the positive side. This will save you some time.Usually if you have a major vacuum leak, idle speed will be high. You could even monitor short term trims while you spray various areas with carb or brake cleaner.
Last edited by raski; 02-20-2022 at 07:01 AM.
#6
Hi Joe,
Is it possible you have all the vacuum hoses connected, but could they be in the wrong place?
Sometimes vacuum is blocked off until a certain condition is met and then vacuum is allowed to pass?
If there is a lean condition , it might idle a little faster, but on acceleration can't run up smoothly because there is not enough fuel OR TOO MUCH AIR > LEAN CONDITION.
There could be a few other possible reasons , but we need to take them one at a time.
Did you check to make sure the PCV system is not allowing in extra air?
It is possible something just developed after you did all your work, right now anything is possible until you recheck all work you did and keep a sharp eye out for anything unusual. Sometimes it can be staring you in the face and we don't notice it right away.
Is it possible you have all the vacuum hoses connected, but could they be in the wrong place?
Sometimes vacuum is blocked off until a certain condition is met and then vacuum is allowed to pass?
If there is a lean condition , it might idle a little faster, but on acceleration can't run up smoothly because there is not enough fuel OR TOO MUCH AIR > LEAN CONDITION.
There could be a few other possible reasons , but we need to take them one at a time.
Did you check to make sure the PCV system is not allowing in extra air?
It is possible something just developed after you did all your work, right now anything is possible until you recheck all work you did and keep a sharp eye out for anything unusual. Sometimes it can be staring you in the face and we don't notice it right away.
I hope this is decipherable.
There are only 2 hoses that I can think of that I could have got wrong or reversed. That is the brake booster hose verses the vaper-purge-hose(?), coming from the solenoid mounted on the engine tunnel. Both hoses are about the same size, and I had them both tagged to go to the TB. One available TB port is a longer tube that is closer to the butterfly valve/snorkle, curving out from under the throttle cable cam. The other available port is on the radius of the TB going down into the intake manifold. I currently have the brake booster line attaches to the port on the radius, and the purge line closer to the butterfly under the throttle cable pivot.
In any case I can't see that making this amount of difference, but if you can verify where each goes than that would help.
Other than that, I cannot find one other thing out of place!
If it is the coils or injectors than I would like to find a reliable source that won't break the bank. I did my research and thought I bought decent secondary market parts but, no, they were not Motorcraft! Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
#7
You are in an area where a scan tool is required to get and read the data stream info. Among that list will be fuel trim numbers as stated earlier.
Until we do that we are flying blind and can stumble on the cause and maybe not.
Until we do that we are flying blind and can stumble on the cause and maybe not.
#8
You are correct of course. Unfortunately I am new to my, vary rural, community and it would involve towing and a full blown diagnostics bills. That's my fallback in the end.
For now, I think I'll be doing a forensic reversal of my work and hope that something shows itself. If it doesn't, than I'll start OHM testing, etc.
Thanks again,
JoelH.
#9
Can we ask,whose plugs did you install and were the gaps checked to be correct?
Is there any way addl air can get into the engine without being measured by the MAF sensor in the air cleaner housing? Tubing from air filter housing to throttle body?
Is there any way addl air can get into the engine without being measured by the MAF sensor in the air cleaner housing? Tubing from air filter housing to throttle body?
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