Loving old cars is both a curse and a blessing. Today I battle the curse.

My wife's daily driver is a 1997 Ford E-350. It's got the 5.4L V8 Triton and was born in Lorain Ohio. We affectionately call her "Old Blue." My wife was on her way home from my son's soccer game and Old Blue decided she didn't want to go no more. The fuel gauge went way up to full then crashed out to zero. She then stopped accelerating and stalled out. Luckily there was someone from my son's team behind them and they gave my wife a ride home. I got Old Blue home and started to diagnose what was going on. Every sign pointed to the fuel pump. So I ordered one and spent two days wrestling the old one out and the new one in. The moment of truth came. That euphoric moment when all the hard work comes together and the once dead engine purrs to life. Except there was no purr. There was no life. Old Blue was still refusing to run. I checked the throttle body (pictured) and it was clean and responsive. I checked spark. It was a shocking experience to say the least, but alas we had great spark. I took a squeeze bottle of gas and whilst my son cranked the motor over I sprayed some fuel directly into the intake and Old Blue roared to life... momentarily. Then she sputtered out and died again. Got it. It's still a fuel issue. I removed the dog house (which I am currently using as my sleeping quarters until I get Old Blue running again) and listened intently as I turned the key to "on." I heard a symphony of relays and clicking. I did the same underneath her near the gas tank... Nothing. Not even crickets. No hum of the pump, not clicking. Nothing. I checked the fuel level. The new pump is receiving at least some electrical signal, and returning in kind. The fuel level is reflected accurately. So now, I'm thinking that the pump is just not getting the signal that it's go time. Ergo, a relay or fuse. Right? So, google knows all and I asked the wizard of the interwebs where my fuel pump relay or fuse would be located. After reading a few online forms, watching some Youtubes, and looking at some diagrams, I felt empowered with knowledge and ready to jump back into the fray. I enthusiastically went into the garage and lifted Old Blue's hood. I found the relay box and opened it. Much to my surprise, there was no relay in the spot where the relay was said to be. Instead I stared at an empty slot. Like the empty chair across from me at a restaurant waiting for my date who never showed up so many years ago. Dejected and heartbroken, I checked for the fuse. Again I was met with disappointment and emptiness.

Old Blue has been in our family for over two years now and has run like a top up until this failure. I find it highly unlikely however, that some relay stealing ninja snuck under the hood while my wife was driving, opened my relay box. Stole the coveted relay. Replaced the fuse with an imposter. Returned the relay cover and the years of dust to it's former place and then disappeared while Old Blue was purring along at 65mph. Therefore... I don't think the relay was there to begin with. The wizard of the interwebs turned out to be a dunce behind a curtain. Much like Dorothy discovered in Oz. I just wish I had some ruby slippers to click my heels and get Old Blue running again. So my friends... I know my story has been a bit long winded but I turn to you for help. Any clue as to what could be causing Old Blue's ailment? Any inkling as to the whereabouts of the relay or fuse? I've included some pictures for your reference and enjoyment. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

As a kind of teaser... my plan is to make Old Blue new again one day, with a diesel motor (I'm not sure if I'm going to stick with Ford and put a 7.3 in it, or make her a "Fummins" and put a 6BT in her.) and 4x4. She'll be a beast of an off road vehicle and adventure wagon for my whole clan. Thanks in advance for your help and insight.
That's where the relay "should" be.

That's supposed to be a 20 amp fuse for the fuel pump.


Fuse box under the driver side dash

In all her splendid glory.

I'm beginning to not like what this badge means.

The throttle body was surprisingly clean and not sticking at all.

Could it be a vacuum leak causing my heart ache?

From inside the van, with the dog house removed.

I tried to remove this connection to see if fuel was making it to the rail. I couldn't figure out the removal process for it.

 

We know through your unforgettable experience that the engine has spark.
If I try to list the steps that are supposed to energize the fuel pump assy , maybe you can check if they are taking place.

When you turn the key on the PCM provides a temporary ground to energize the fuel pump relay and hence the pump motor for approx 2-3 seconds.. Once the ECM receives an RPM signal it provides a permanent ground to keep the pump working.

Now we get to the other part, power from the PCM also goes thru the inertia sw to the fuel pump. Before doing anything else , make sure that inertia switch was not tripped by possibly someone kicking the pass side kick panel . It is located just above the pass side kick panel and you can feel it if you stick your fingers over the covering . You should feel the little pocket. Just push the center part down . If it was accidentally tripped ,that will reset it. If it was OK, the only other option is to make sure the pump runs for the 2 seconds when the key is first turned on. Up to this point let us know what you find.

 

The fuel pump relay is the one on the far right/lower in your image (Black)
The 30 amp fuse is correct for pump/load run, meaning the fuse is 'Hot at all times' and the PCM supplies the ground closing/activating the relay as hanky mentioned.
The relays ignition switch input (fused as well) supplies power distribution to the mag/coil side of the relay, and an added PCM ground completes the relay closing/activation..

If you have a meter, you can check for the needed power distributions at the relay connectors face (switched ON, and Hot at all Times) , as well as check for a PCM commanded ground (timed for a few seconds as mentioned as well) .
If the pump, harness, inertia etc is questionable, to prove out and as a TEST ONLY,, with the relay removed, bridge the relay terminal legs (30/87) and if everything aft of the relay is spec, the truck should run.
It would effectively remove the relays 'switched ON' input from the ignition, and a ground command from the PCM to close the relays contacts..
You might also swap the relay to prove it out. prior to moving forward....

 

Thanks so much for the replies hanky and Hayapower. I did a little more trouble shooting today from the advice that hanky gave. Along the way I found the ground to be in poor shape (pictured) so I replaced it. Still no dice. I pulled the inertia switch and tested it. It has continuity. I tripped it on purpose then tested again, it did not have continuity. So, the switch is good. I tested the plug that goes into the inertia switch. I also took some pictures. It looked a little melted and deformed. I had my wife turn the ignition to on and then to start. In the on position it registered 6 volts. When it was turned to start, it dropped to 5 volts.

Corrosion on the frame to body ground.

melted plug to inertia switch

 

You should have 12 volts coming to the inertia sw. You have found the problem. Now all you need to do is back track back to the fuel pump relay as Hayapower suggested and verify you have 12 volts at term 30. The problem is insufficient power to the system. I would start with power coming to the relay panel and make sure it is there.Again as Hayapower suggested,you might switch with another relay , same part ## and see what you get.

 

The input through the inertia will be timed ON. When testing, cycle the key off/on when taking or checking readings.
You might either back probe the connector or pierce the wire insulation just behind the connector and check for spec voltage there. Taking a reading inside a damaged connector may yield a wrong voltage value.