2005 Ford Escape 2.3L Peened Spark Plug
#1
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Installed Bosch double platinum plugs 7,000 miles ago at 273,000 miles. Drove with no issues for 14 months, went to start on Sunday only to have a severe tapping from the top end. Any ideas what might cause one out of four plugs to look like the left plug? The others are perfect, just the #2 cylinder and of course the misfire code, no power, engine stalling that goes with it. On a related note, I've since replaced the valve cover gasket that was causing the ponding in the plug wells.
#2
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So, after gapping four new Motorcraft plugs to .054 using a wire gauge and installing with four new coils, it runs great but stumbles when idling or selector moved to R/D; no codes, no flashing engine light. I can smell gas fumes from the back of the engine and the loud tapping noise, sounding like a lifter tapping from an exhaust leak. The CO sniffer sounds off where exhaust manifold tubes join exhaust ports from 1&2. Any suggestions for a replacement exhaust manifold and is that a common fail part?
#3
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The mileage is up there. They don't usually go that far without an overhaul.
It appears the plug is oil fouled.
That could be due to an oil control ring problem or maybe a valve guide problem where the oil is getting sucked in and fouling the plug.
In either case the head will need to come off and be checked. Even if the head was reconditioned, the rest of the engine will not hold up due to possible ring wear.
You should be seeing some nice blue smoke from the exhaust, how is the oil level holding up ?
That is one opinion, lets see what other suggestions come through.
It appears the plug is oil fouled.
That could be due to an oil control ring problem or maybe a valve guide problem where the oil is getting sucked in and fouling the plug.
In either case the head will need to come off and be checked. Even if the head was reconditioned, the rest of the engine will not hold up due to possible ring wear.
You should be seeing some nice blue smoke from the exhaust, how is the oil level holding up ?
That is one opinion, lets see what other suggestions come through.
#4
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As my wife says "time to play the violins"...while not noticing any oil smoke, even at highway speed where it seems to run its best, just did a compression test and found cyls 2 & 3 have 75psi while 1&4 are at 200psi. Plug gaps in those two cyls closed to .031 and .035 respectively from the .054 they were initially set. Tipping my hat to Hanky for offering up his expertise, thank you sir!
Last edited by bcurry45; 04-22-2024 at 07:48 PM.
#5
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Whenever anyone mentions anything about the "Expert" , I get a little nervous.
The expert is the one who knows more and more about less and less until they know practically everything about almost nothing at all.., and that is the person we call in to share the blame, lol.
The expert is the one who knows more and more about less and less until they know practically everything about almost nothing at all.., and that is the person we call in to share the blame, lol.
#6
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Whenever anyone mentions anything about the "Expert" , I get a little nervous.
The expert is the one who knows more and more about less and less until they know practically everything about almost nothing at all.., and that is the person we call in to share the blame, lol.
The expert is the one who knows more and more about less and less until they know practically everything about almost nothing at all.., and that is the person we call in to share the blame, lol.
#7
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Back in "Those" days it was easy to swap engines and things worked out well.
Today's vehicles engines many times change from year to year and even in mid year. That is why it is so important to obtain the specific engine for your particular vehicle.
Something as simple as a crank reluctor can be different and without the right equip is almost impossible to pin down the problem that causes.
Big brother is the vehicle computer, which is programmed specifically to EACH vehicle and if not the right part, the worms are out of the container.
Today's vehicles engines many times change from year to year and even in mid year. That is why it is so important to obtain the specific engine for your particular vehicle.
Something as simple as a crank reluctor can be different and without the right equip is almost impossible to pin down the problem that causes.
Big brother is the vehicle computer, which is programmed specifically to EACH vehicle and if not the right part, the worms are out of the container.
#8
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Sound advice hanky, I appreciate your wisdom. A used engine with 86K miles will cost me $1350 and have a 3 year warranty. A reman from GearHead is $2419 with a 4 year warranty. Everyone wants to minimize the expense, I suspect I would need bearings, rings, overhaul gasket set, reman head, oil pump, possibly some machine work/oversized pistons if the cylinder walls are severely scored from the foreign particles (valve chips I suspect) and a whole lot of instruction. A Chilton repair manual only gets me so far lol
#9
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There is no question we all are trying to get the most for our $$$.
Something to consider,
A "Remanufactured" engine cost the most as compared to a rebuilt which could be using a lot of the old parts. Comes with a limited warranty etc.
A Reman has all the modifications, comes with a much better warranty and you get what you pay for.
Suggest you at least check it out. Nobody likes doing the job over and paying twice.
Only you know the condition of your vehicle and if it would be worth the expense . All we can do is direct you to the different places to help make a good decision.
Something to consider,
A "Remanufactured" engine cost the most as compared to a rebuilt which could be using a lot of the old parts. Comes with a limited warranty etc.
A Reman has all the modifications, comes with a much better warranty and you get what you pay for.
Suggest you at least check it out. Nobody likes doing the job over and paying twice.
Only you know the condition of your vehicle and if it would be worth the expense . All we can do is direct you to the different places to help make a good decision.
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