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2006 Ford Escape will not start- Key

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  #1  
Old 03-31-2013 | 09:38 AM
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Default 2006 Ford Escape will not start- Key

I have a 2006 Ford Escape 4cly with 30,000 miles on it. I purchased it a year ago at an auction. It was owned by a church group which broke up and they had to have new keys made.

One key never worked except to open the door. The other has worked for a year. I was going to my daughters for Easter and pulled into McDonalds and it would open the door but would not start.

The dash has a lock, in red flashing about every 3 seconds at the bottom until I turn on the ignition.

The battery is new.

We tried to push it and it's like the key is not on. I am 70 years old and the kids said they could smell gas.

They tried to short across something and said their was not fire there.

I made sure the clutch was push in all the way

My granddaughter came and got me but now I have to go back and get it.

I was told to lock and unlock the door several times with the key and that did not help.

I don't remember much about the dash lights when trying to start.

Does this appear to be a key problem before we go back to get it?
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 09:45 AM
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It is about 100 miles and they will have to toll it about 20 miles.. Can one be made at a locksmith or does it have to be at a Ford dealership it you think that could solve the problem.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 11:27 AM
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If the key has worked for a year I'm not suspecting the key is the culprit. The key should be surrounded in black plastic. Within that is a chip. The key is coded to the vehicle. You can code your own key. You can buy a key and then to code it there is a series of on/off sequence with the key in the ignition. I just did my cadillac about a year ago.
I gather this is manual. Are you getting a clicking noise or any noise at all?
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 01:25 PM
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You need to be careful here.
First, if you have another coded key by all means try it.
The newer vehicles with the PATS system, some of them require that second key to program a third key.
Usually, a locksmith with the proper equipment should be able to make another key and code it to the vehicle's anti-theft system.
Coded keys can and do lose the codes from time to time and it's a good policy to have an extra third or fourth key for when something like this happens. It may cost a few bucks, when done by a locksmith , but it sure won't spoil your Easter.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 06:07 PM
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I hear a light clicking sound from the area of the radio when I turn the key from the on position to the start position.

Is there anyway to test the key or the clutch switch.
 
  #6  
Old 03-31-2013 | 07:26 PM
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Go out and put a test on the battery and see what the voltage is. New doesn't mean anything if you had a bad alternator. Look for readings above 12.3 cold.
 
  #7  
Old 03-31-2013 | 10:10 PM
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I agree with Hanky those coded keys do lose the right code sometimes.
 
  #8  
Old 03-31-2013 | 11:00 PM
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Don't think it is the battery since it would not start when we pushed it.

Tomorrow I will go back over there and try again with a new key.
 
  #9  
Old 04-01-2013 | 07:16 PM
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Your anti theft system is why it wouldn't start by push or pop starting it. and the more times you try it the greater the chance of flooding it out and don't say that a fuel injected engine can't be flooded with fuel
 
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Old 04-03-2013 | 12:25 AM
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Went back and thought the floor mat might be causing the clutch not to go down far enough. Looked at the floor mat and there were parts to the clutch switch. It had broken. I used a paperclip to make contact with the two pins in the connector and it immediately started. Going to go to store and purchase a new clutch switch.
 



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