O2 Sensor - Need Advice Please - 2010 Ford Escape
#1
O2 Sensor - Need Advice Please - 2010 Ford Escape
I know next to nothing about cars let alone any specific brand+model. My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape and we bought it in 2019 from a dealership. I understand this is a taboo but believe me, we had not choice. The check engine light was on and the code they pulled showed that it was the O2 sensor. We brought it back in and they checked the sensor and told us that it worked but they couldn't get the code/check engine light to turn off.
The only issue it has has is it stalled 3-4 months after we bought it but it started back up. As a couple of people who are dummies when it comes to cars, we took the dealerships word on it and went about our lives. It's 2021 and still no problems, runs great, but the check engine light is still on and I am over it.
I borrowed my dad's code reader and lo-and-f*cking-behold, it's the O2 sensor.... Im 99% the dealership lied and didn't want to shell out the cash to fix it.
Don't waste your time calling me a dummy because I know. I should have addressed this a long time ago.
Anyway, where do I start? I cannot afford a mechanic. I want to do this myself and I have a little experience working on cars and with my dad's help I know we can do it. He has been working on cars since the '80s but like a true Gen X'er he wants me to figure it out before he will help. Not complaining, I can do that but I just need a solid idea of where I am headed first.
With O2 sensors I know that there is 2 of them on the 2010 Ford Escape. Should I just replace both? Most online options come in 2pks.
Here are a couple of different ones I found online that seem to match:
https://www.carparts.com/details/For...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Also, where are the O2 sensors on the Escape? Ready to get my hands dirty and get this over with so I can address the number of other issue in my life.
I would be grateful for any advice. Thank you!
The only issue it has has is it stalled 3-4 months after we bought it but it started back up. As a couple of people who are dummies when it comes to cars, we took the dealerships word on it and went about our lives. It's 2021 and still no problems, runs great, but the check engine light is still on and I am over it.
I borrowed my dad's code reader and lo-and-f*cking-behold, it's the O2 sensor.... Im 99% the dealership lied and didn't want to shell out the cash to fix it.
Don't waste your time calling me a dummy because I know. I should have addressed this a long time ago.
Anyway, where do I start? I cannot afford a mechanic. I want to do this myself and I have a little experience working on cars and with my dad's help I know we can do it. He has been working on cars since the '80s but like a true Gen X'er he wants me to figure it out before he will help. Not complaining, I can do that but I just need a solid idea of where I am headed first.
With O2 sensors I know that there is 2 of them on the 2010 Ford Escape. Should I just replace both? Most online options come in 2pks.
Here are a couple of different ones I found online that seem to match:
https://www.carparts.com/details/For...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Also, where are the O2 sensors on the Escape? Ready to get my hands dirty and get this over with so I can address the number of other issue in my life.
I would be grateful for any advice. Thank you!
#2
Maybe we can offer some guidance,,,,,,,,?
According to what is shown on your tool , you should be looking for how the oxygen sensor heater is supplied power and when.
The bank 1, sensor 2 means bank one is the side where #1 cyl is located , that converter and sensor #2 is the oxygen sensor after that converter..
A good scan tool will provide the data to let you know if that oxygen sensor is working correctly , or not. Depending on the mileage on the vehicle ,you might consider just replacing that particular sensor, since they are all different. If it was a sensor problem the light should go out after a trip or two.
In not, you need to determine if power is getting to that sensor for the heater in that sensor to work.
If you decide this is more than you can handle , pass the info on back to the $$$ provider and see what they want to do.
When possible , suggest purchasing the replacement sensor from Ford, and you should get the correct one.
According to what is shown on your tool , you should be looking for how the oxygen sensor heater is supplied power and when.
The bank 1, sensor 2 means bank one is the side where #1 cyl is located , that converter and sensor #2 is the oxygen sensor after that converter..
A good scan tool will provide the data to let you know if that oxygen sensor is working correctly , or not. Depending on the mileage on the vehicle ,you might consider just replacing that particular sensor, since they are all different. If it was a sensor problem the light should go out after a trip or two.
In not, you need to determine if power is getting to that sensor for the heater in that sensor to work.
If you decide this is more than you can handle , pass the info on back to the $$$ provider and see what they want to do.
When possible , suggest purchasing the replacement sensor from Ford, and you should get the correct one.
#4
Maybe we can offer some guidance,,,,,,,,?
According to what is shown on your tool , you should be looking for how the oxygen sensor heater is supplied power and when.
The bank 1, sensor 2 means bank one is the side where #1 cyl is located , that converter and sensor #2 is the oxygen sensor after that converter..
A good scan tool will provide the data to let you know if that oxygen sensor is working correctly , or not. Depending on the mileage on the vehicle ,you might consider just replacing that particular sensor, since they are all different. If it was a sensor problem the light should go out after a trip or two.
In not, you need to determine if power is getting to that sensor for the heater in that sensor to work.
If you decide this is more than you can handle , pass the info on back to the $$$ provider and see what they want to do.
When possible , suggest purchasing the replacement sensor from Ford, and you should get the correct one.
According to what is shown on your tool , you should be looking for how the oxygen sensor heater is supplied power and when.
The bank 1, sensor 2 means bank one is the side where #1 cyl is located , that converter and sensor #2 is the oxygen sensor after that converter..
A good scan tool will provide the data to let you know if that oxygen sensor is working correctly , or not. Depending on the mileage on the vehicle ,you might consider just replacing that particular sensor, since they are all different. If it was a sensor problem the light should go out after a trip or two.
In not, you need to determine if power is getting to that sensor for the heater in that sensor to work.
If you decide this is more than you can handle , pass the info on back to the $$$ provider and see what they want to do.
When possible , suggest purchasing the replacement sensor from Ford, and you should get the correct one.
#5
Power for the heater circuits is generally V ref voltage supplied by the PCM power relay, which supplies other components also. If no other problems it is safe to assume power relay is working. The PCM controls the ground for the heater circuit, which can be a cycling voltage to prevent overheating.
You can check the 4 wire connector to the rear sensor for 12 volts when the key is turned on. You should have it then or if not check the wiring to that sensor.for power and ground, the other 2 wires are for sensor output readings. If all are present as required, replace sensor.
You can check the 4 wire connector to the rear sensor for 12 volts when the key is turned on. You should have it then or if not check the wiring to that sensor.for power and ground, the other 2 wires are for sensor output readings. If all are present as required, replace sensor.
#6
Get yourself an odb 2 tool and torque pro app. This will tell you which sensor it is. Bank 1 &2 sensor 1 are the upstream sensors other engine. Sensor 2 is the downstream sensors after the cat converter.
edit: I just saw you photo
edit: I just saw you photo
#7
02 sensor heated circuit
Yes, I recently had same issue but bank 1 sensor 2 & if u read scan tool it does say (circuit). I tried everything but didnt think 2 check circuit wiring! Low & behold what did I find, the 4 wires had melted in harness in three spots after connector on top of motor that runs down 2 alt & in plastic housing between motor & firewall up to ECM. Repaired wiring & so far so good, no DTC codes. I had went to wrecking yard 4 a harness & found that 5 escapes 2001-2009 had all the same issues w/harness, all had 4 burnt wires to 02 sensor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post