98 expedition windows suddenly stopped working
#1
98 expedition windows suddenly stopped working
My wife bought a 98 expedition from a friend that has been nothing but trouble, recently we had a fellow work on it when the starter would randomly kick in while running and upon its return we noticed the windows did not work anymore!
he swears he had nothing to do with it and that he did not touch anything related to the windows!
i have looked online and saw where someone said a 15 amp fuse in the number 14 slot fixed their window problem but mine is not blown.
i then replaced the large 30 amp maxi fuse in the under hood fuse box and this did nothing. the old one was a metal 30 amp and you could not tell if it was bad or not.
anyway i have no idea where to go from here? all windows worked fine before and now no window will work from any switch location!
ANY HELP HERE?
he swears he had nothing to do with it and that he did not touch anything related to the windows!
i have looked online and saw where someone said a 15 amp fuse in the number 14 slot fixed their window problem but mine is not blown.
i then replaced the large 30 amp maxi fuse in the under hood fuse box and this did nothing. the old one was a metal 30 amp and you could not tell if it was bad or not.
anyway i have no idea where to go from here? all windows worked fine before and now no window will work from any switch location!
ANY HELP HERE?
#2
Hi Ted and welcome to the site.
It's not that I don't trust your accuracy, but sometimes we make a mistake in pinpointing fuse locations, so if you can, get hold of a test lite or multimeter and check ALL the fuses. If you confirm all are good then you may need to check if you have power at the main switch on the driver's door. If all is well there the next thing to check for is a possible broken wire in the wiring where the driver's door opens and closes. It can be a tedious job, but that is how we check the system, no silver bullets here.
That "metal" fuse you refer to sounds like it could be a circuit breaker and It should stay there instead of a fuse.
It's not that I don't trust your accuracy, but sometimes we make a mistake in pinpointing fuse locations, so if you can, get hold of a test lite or multimeter and check ALL the fuses. If you confirm all are good then you may need to check if you have power at the main switch on the driver's door. If all is well there the next thing to check for is a possible broken wire in the wiring where the driver's door opens and closes. It can be a tedious job, but that is how we check the system, no silver bullets here.
That "metal" fuse you refer to sounds like it could be a circuit breaker and It should stay there instead of a fuse.
Last edited by hanky; 05-01-2013 at 04:37 AM.
#3
thanks for the info i suspected the metal fuse to be different thatn a maxi fuse and even protested this fact at the parts store with clerk who was trying to tell me it was the same thing but i gave in and said ok! lol.
i was going to check the power at the main switch as my next step and hopefully i dont have to get into that harness at the door!
i work at an automotive assembly plant and i know what a mess those wires are!
Im guessing our mexican mechanic friend did something since the windows worked when i dropped it off and upon pickup 24 hours later they were not working.
i was going to check the power at the main switch as my next step and hopefully i dont have to get into that harness at the door!
i work at an automotive assembly plant and i know what a mess those wires are!
Im guessing our mexican mechanic friend did something since the windows worked when i dropped it off and upon pickup 24 hours later they were not working.
#4
Could be a GEM issue as well..
Check the master panel like Hanky pointed out, if no power distribution there, a few pin point checks at the Accessory delay and One touch relay connectors would help prove out the GEM. GEM is in control of the relays grounds and a few power distribution points.
Quick test at the panel,, check the LB/BK for 12v. Have a volt/ohm meter handy?
Check the master panel like Hanky pointed out, if no power distribution there, a few pin point checks at the Accessory delay and One touch relay connectors would help prove out the GEM. GEM is in control of the relays grounds and a few power distribution points.
Quick test at the panel,, check the LB/BK for 12v. Have a volt/ohm meter handy?
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