I have a 1991 Explorer automatic with auto hubs. I am repairing the front brakes and notice that the 3 triangular tangs on the drivers side are badly warn and the cam is also damaged. I look at the other side and the tangs look OK. I take a screwdriver and turn the tangs by hand. One side clicks and the other free spins. Which is correct? Also, where can I get hubs and cams?
KaiserBill63

 

You should talk to the guy ive been talking to! check out the topic "auto vs manual locking hubs" just under your topic this guy seems to know he stuff. as far the hub clicking and the other not clicking id assume the one clicking is the one that needs cleaning and regreased or replaced. like i say i dont know much about this 4x4stuff at all but i mentioned a clicking coming from my auto lockers and dude was saying that they may just need to be cleaned up and regreased. anyhow the guy uses the name " use common sense" or somthing like that he seems to know the deal when it comes to these hubs, he can probably help you or im sure someone else will come along eventually with some morediffenant answers for you..good luck to you

 

The 3-prong assembly inside the hub housing should spin freely with no noise. New Auto-Locks are quite pricey. Check a bone yard for a good set. Clean them real good and apply a light coating of grease. However, I believe you can get rebuild kits for these. These hub assemblies only require a thin film of grease on everything. Don't forget to repack your wheel bearing while servicing your brakes. Auto locks are critical to proper torque specs. So here we go. Torque the wheel bearing retainer nut down to 125ft·lb while turning the rotor. Then back off 1/8 turn and re-torque to 16in·lb. Remember...FOOT pounds, then INCH pounds. Otherwise you'll trash your bearing/spindle assembly. If too loose, the rotor and move just enought that the axle shft and catch the splines on the hub when making a turn and start locking the hub up.

 

Thanks for the info. The Haines book says 35ft-lbs and 1/4th turn back, but I am going with your advice. I am finishing putting the car back together today.

Bill

 

Not to question the information that USE COMMON SENSE gave you, but like he said with these auto lock hubs the torque specs are critical and seeing what he wrote and what your book says is kind of a big difference. Just to be on the safe side i would check with a dealer on proper torque specs for your specific explorer.Also i would check back with USE COMMON SENSE to make sure the torque specs he gave you were actual specs for you to use or just to point out the fact that you have to torque them in ft lbs first then back off and retorque in in. lbs.... All Im saying is it may have just been an example and not actual specific specs for your paticualer explorer.let everyone know how it turns

 

I'm probably wrong and do try my best to provide the best help I can. It's been 4 years since I sold my 88 ranger. I probably had lug nut specs tossed into the torque salad. Just double check everything and you'll be OK.

 

Hey USE COMMON SENSE since we are on the topic of these hubs and 4wd stuff here i wanted to ask you about the u-joint replacement we talked about on my 91 explorer in the auto vs manual hub thread. when taking the axles out to change the u-joints should the axles just popout of the differential similer to pulling a transaxle out of a front wheel drive transmission or is there any special tricks or tools requiredin getting them out??? your knowledge of the subject would be greatly appreciated....thanks

 

The left axle should just slide out. The right side has an inner and outer shaft. The right side outer shaft should also just slide out. The right side inner shaft has a retaining clip inside the axle housing. The only way to get this shaft out is to unbolt and split the housing. Before going that route, double check to see if the inner U-Joint is even bad (loose or stiff). If it is, you might try to get the U-Joint out by using a C-Clamp or ball-joint tool or some type of set up to press the old one out and press the caps in on the new one. My inner was fine on my 88 ranger and still good, so I left it alone. I also went with the solid U-Joints as the joints have so little metel to them, the greasable ones are just weakened by the holes in them. Also with the OEM ones lasting 117,000 miles, The replacement and inner U-Joints were just fine when I sold the truck at 209,000 miles. The Ranger had it's share of off-roading during hunting season and going to different "Off the beaten path" camp sites and playing in the snow. Since I ordered my Ranger new, I ordered it with the rare axle code "F62" which is a 3.73 Limited Slip front and rear axle.

 

Thanks for the info use common sense. Im not sure exactly when ill be getting this work done but i figured id get as much info as possible in case i dont have the internet much longer or this computer crashes and im unable to get back here to ask later,,,Thanks again

 

No problem...Any time...