clicking noise in dash
#1
clicking noise in dash
I have a 2003 Explorer XLT with just under 75k miles. When I turn the temp **** there is a loud clicking noise in the dash. Seems worse when turning temp to colder settings. Anyone have any ideas?
#3
Before you pull the dash apart, read this. Console and a few other pieces of trim should do it. Still a nasty place, but doable. I've been researching this while waiting for someone of knowledge to answer my post on this thread of a no heat control problem.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
#4
Before you pull the dash apart, read this. Console and a few other pieces of trim should do it. Still a nasty place, but doable. I've been researching this while waiting for someone of knowledge to answer my post on this thread of a no heat control problem.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
We are putting it in tomarrow,,, thanks for the link, ( part at ford is 85 ish)
#5
Before you pull the dash apart, read this. Console and a few other pieces of trim should do it. Still a nasty place, but doable. I've been researching this while waiting for someone of knowledge to answer my post on this thread of a no heat control problem.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/ho...oor/index.html
Get the part from these guys. OEM part for $43. Cheapest on the web or even local. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET PART. The actuator rods are different and it leaves you with too much slop in the actuator shaft leading to inefficient heat and AC.
http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/
If a dealer does the work, prepare yourself for a $750 - $1,000 repair bill.
Smart...eh?! It used to be behind the glove box where you could get at it easy, but "Ford has a better idea". Good luck.
Thanks for the site..
#6
Until you get it fixed, you can manually swap the door over. Set the mechanism to heat and let the clicking start. Set it all the way over to heat and when you manually flop the door it will still click. Just turn the **** a hair off of full hot and the clicking should stop.
You will need to empty the glove box and push in the sides to let it drop down. Reach inside and slightly down. Go under the rod going across with your hand. This will take some searching to find the correct lever the first few times. You should be able to tell by the clicking it is making (that is why you flip over to heat first). Push the lever down towards the seats. The lever should stay there and you will have heat.
The problem with this fix is that when you start the engine next time it will default back to the air position. Then you will have to do it again. It does not flip back everytime however. It appears the longer you leave the key in the start position before going to run the device will lose power and drop back.
Hope this helps for everyone until a repair can be accomplished (especially in North Dakota).
You will need to empty the glove box and push in the sides to let it drop down. Reach inside and slightly down. Go under the rod going across with your hand. This will take some searching to find the correct lever the first few times. You should be able to tell by the clicking it is making (that is why you flip over to heat first). Push the lever down towards the seats. The lever should stay there and you will have heat.
The problem with this fix is that when you start the engine next time it will default back to the air position. Then you will have to do it again. It does not flip back everytime however. It appears the longer you leave the key in the start position before going to run the device will lose power and drop back.
Hope this helps for everyone until a repair can be accomplished (especially in North Dakota).
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