Power windows and locks stopped working
#1
Power windows and locks stopped working
1994 Explorer 4.0 4x4. The other day all my power windows and locks stopped working. I thought it may be the driver side master switch, so with the car running I tried the control on the passenger side. The windows and door locks still didnt work. I did the same for both back seat controls and still no luck. Checked fuses and all are good. Anyone have any thoughts on this matter? Thanks, mike
#7
Thanks Yorky. Ive all but given up on any help from here. Ive checked everything else I can think of and unable to find the solution. I guess its time to take the door off and get into the boot. Can you help with a post or thread on here that explains the fix? I have been unable to find anything on here. Has anyone had this problem before? Thanks, Mike
#8
The PW's and PDL's do share a ground in the left kickpanel.
There also a harness connector there in the kick that you can test for a supplied voltage from the interior fuse panel (PW 12v feed is LB/BK wire) and the feed from the Power Distribution Box for PDL's is the BK/W. You can check for ground function either through the master switch 'and' lock switch (same circuit),, if it doesn't have a ground at the window switch etc.. then the connector in the panel.
Same with power distribution,, check the wire colors given at the switches.. If their not at the panel switches, and they are at the kick connector,, then there's an open in between.
There also a harness connector there in the kick that you can test for a supplied voltage from the interior fuse panel (PW 12v feed is LB/BK wire) and the feed from the Power Distribution Box for PDL's is the BK/W. You can check for ground function either through the master switch 'and' lock switch (same circuit),, if it doesn't have a ground at the window switch etc.. then the connector in the panel.
Same with power distribution,, check the wire colors given at the switches.. If their not at the panel switches, and they are at the kick connector,, then there's an open in between.
#9
So if I get a test light hook it up to the negative side of the battery and stab the (light blue & black wire) for PW's inside the kick panel the light should come on right? Then do the same thing at the master switch? If no light there,theres a bad wire in the boot from panel box through the door to the master switch. right? Then do the same thing to test the PDL's only its the (black&white) wire. Right?
#10
When troubleshooting electrical/harness problems somestimes its easier to start off by eliminating what its not, rather then guessing what it is
Yes,, as a first step of tests, check the wires at the master panel switch for power distribution and a good ground there. Since you lost both locks and windows at the same time (?) I'd doubt you broke more than one wire at the same time in the jamb/pinch area. Anything is possible though.
Could be a open ground, but a simple check may shed some light as where to go next. If you have a volt ohm meter (?) to check for a ground resistance then check the master switch connectors there on the black wires for locks and window. Or, if you don't have a DVOM (and the connectors have 12v on the wire colors given at the switches) then you might try and use a test wire and probe the back of the BK wire at the connector and ground the other end to a solid part of the chassis etc. If no voltage at the switch panel, or ground, then pull the left kick and repeat the checks at the connector there. If still nothing,, we'll have you check a few other area's..
Yes,, as a first step of tests, check the wires at the master panel switch for power distribution and a good ground there. Since you lost both locks and windows at the same time (?) I'd doubt you broke more than one wire at the same time in the jamb/pinch area. Anything is possible though.
Could be a open ground, but a simple check may shed some light as where to go next. If you have a volt ohm meter (?) to check for a ground resistance then check the master switch connectors there on the black wires for locks and window. Or, if you don't have a DVOM (and the connectors have 12v on the wire colors given at the switches) then you might try and use a test wire and probe the back of the BK wire at the connector and ground the other end to a solid part of the chassis etc. If no voltage at the switch panel, or ground, then pull the left kick and repeat the checks at the connector there. If still nothing,, we'll have you check a few other area's..