I am new to this forum so I apologize if this has come up before.

I own a 2006 F150 Lariat Crew Cab. For several months now the front passenger window would go down with the door switch but not up; I would have to use the master switch to roll the window up.

Then yesterday my son was riding in the back and rolled the rear passenger side window down, but it would not go back up with the door switch or with the master switch.

This evening I pulled the interior door panel off of the rear passenger door and replaced the motor and regulator. I went to move the brackets up to reconnect the window and it will not budge with the door switch, nor will the master switch do anything. I tested the rear passenger door switch with the rear drivers side door switch and it worked great, so I know it is not a switch issue.

I have looked over a few other forums/posts and the most common issue seemed to be a broken wire within the rubber boot between the drivers door and the body of the pickup. Would a broken wire cause all of those issues? (The down but not up with the front passenger door; the rear passenger switch not working; the master switch for the rear passenger door not working). And if that is likely the problem, is it fairly easy to fix? As of right now I am roughly $200 into this: $86 at a shop this morning to tell me what the problem was (which they wanted to charge me $600 to replace the motor, but even that doesn't seem to be the issue), and $120 for the new motor/regulator.

Thanks

 

It isn't always easy to troubleshoot today's modern vehicles without a capable scan tool.
Power window issues can fall into this group. There are enclosed components which you cannot access without the scan tool. There are relays for windows up and relays for windows down, and some of these relays are in an enclosed component that you either test or replace. Some vehicles require the new module to be reconfigured to the vehicle before they will function properly. In some vehicles the window switches don't go directly to the motor, but to a module that control the motors. A good shop with the right scan tool can and should be able to tell you where the problem lies like wiring or possibly a component. It may cost some for the correct diagnosis, but can save you some time and $$ in the long run.

 

Welcome aboard...

Before replacing any motor/regulators, it's always a good bet to check function while their still in place. The window switches are designed to reverse polarities for up and down function. If you have an issue with either function, it's simple to add in test wires at the motor/ harness and check to see if it's a motor issue. Swap the wire polarity at the motor ( motor reg must be grounded) back and forth should have both movements. If it does, generally it will prove out the motor.

It's not all that uncommon to have a window not come up or down, and sometimes if the switch is held ( if the switch is hot/bi directional) in the desired direction, and a hardy thump given low on the door panel can sometimes get it moving. If that were the case, a motor would be suspect. Not the best test, but sometimes a result..

Checking for power distribution at the master, and at each affected window switch should be done during a fail event, and that the switch is reversing polarity. If you have a power distribution drop out to the switch/s then it could be a open between the master and individual switches.. If you never have a drop out in power to the passenger switches ( and no or limited function) then the door switch or motor would be suspect. Since at one point,, you were able to bring the front passenger window up/down with the master, and limited with the door switch, would lead me to believe that there wasn't any door jamb harness issue. The key is to check the switches for an active 'hot' at the individual switches. Key ON power out to the door switches is through the window lockout switch.

Power distribution for the master switch comes through the Accesory delay relay that's controlled within the instrument cluster. If the delay relay isn't closed meaning no power going through it, ALL the window functions would stop. There's no other module control for the PWs.

All the switches share a spliced 'hot' that feeds out of the master switch panel at the window lockout switch, (not individual wires). A simple test there, and at each door switch should have an active hot supplied at all times with the key ON
Although a jamb wire break or open can happen, chances of two near the same time would be unlikely.
If you have a test light and/or a meter, I can give you some test check points to help prove out the system..

 

Thank you both for the replies. I am fairly handy but once we get into the technical details of electrical work I start to feel a bit in over my head. That being said, I took a peak inside of the rubber boot that runs between the drivers door and the pickup where all of those wires are located, and I immediately found a wire that had been cut (see picture). Would this explain the issues I am having? Even if it is not THE problem it needs to be reconnected, which brings up a sticky situation. Notice there is a fair amount of length coming from the door - the other end is a good ways up inside of the rubber boot. I tried pulling on that end to extend it a ways but there is zero slack. Will I have to open up the interior trim to expose that bundle of wires and then splice a length of wire between the two cut ends? (I hope that makes sense)

Thanks again

 

Yellow/black is the up function circuit from the master panel switch to the RR window switch. The door window switch should of been able to operate the window being their not reliant of the master other than getting door switch power from the master lockout circuit..

 

One sure way to determine if repairing the broken wire solves the problem is to jumper a piece of wire to complete the circuit and see what you get. The solution could be just that easy, go for it !