On the E series that round thing contains the valving that when tank fuel pumps are switched, it will shuttle the unused return line fuel back to the proper tank.
On the F series that shuttle system is incorporated into the fuel tank pump module assy so the fuel is returned to the tank that is doing the pumping.
It is possible there is a blockage in that "round thing" reservoir and could be why you are not getting fuel thru it. You are on the right track checking for fuel before the "round thing". Just be careful disconnecting those lines because if the tanks are full you could get a fuel bath.

 

this is what i have on the rail:









I took the 4 lines off (the ones comming from the tanks), and no dice. some of the existing fuel came out. but nothing came out of either line when i jumped the relay, and i could hear each pump come on when i hit the switch. i made sure to do it as quick as possible, so the high pressure pump wouldn't burn out.

so now what? do you have a schematic of that shuttle system? i have a shop manual titled:

Engine/ Emissions- Diagnosis
1988 shop manual
volume H car/ Truck

in section 11 page 6, theres a schematic of the fuel system and it doesn't show this shuttle system, just two lines comming from each tank, going directly to the dual function reservoir. will i have to pull the tanks in order to fix this shuttle system?

another thing i thought of, was that the truck was sitting for several years. even tho the rear tank had a new strainer, do you think that the fuel may have varnished up and clogged the strainers?

this truck is giving me such a headache

 

I don't believe there is a varnish problem, but I do think you're going to have to pull one of those tanks and replace a fuel pump. Since the rear was the last one removed it might be easier to do that one. Are you sure that the tanks are full? If they are it's gonna be a bi-ch dropping a full tank. I don't know if they were easier to siphon the fuel out than the newer ones. The shuttle system shouldn't be any cause for concern at this point. You are on the homestretch now . Hang in there !!


It was a pleasure working with you, even if you did all the work !
Just think when this is all done you can sit down and have a cold one or a nice hot cup of coffee and say, "what a ride" !

 

yup, full. if i push the truck side to side, i can hear the gas sloshing for about 15 - 20 seconds, and it sounds deep like its full, NOT shallow and echo'y as if it was empty. plus when i knock on the tank, no echo, just a deep thud.

so i'll just drop that thing, and test the pump in a bucket of water, and see if it pumps it. if it does pump it, what do yall recommend as far as pumps go? i work at advance auto, and we seem to get the airtex pumps back pretty often, and bosch just plain sucks. i've had good luck with carter electric pumps on my carburator'ed VW's (hence the username, bugman114, lol). Has anyone used a carter pump on their fuel injected ford? summit racng has them, and they are just down the street from me. or does anyone recommend something better?

thanks yall

 

lol, same here. i appreciate all the help. if it wasn't for yall, i'd prolly be halfway in installing a carburetor on it right now and having to wait another year before i could register it, .

 

and as far as draining the fuel, it seems like the lines acted as a type of syphon. when i disconnected the lines off the resevoir thing, they just kept pouring out fuel. so i'll just let em drain in my gas can, and hopefully they'll all drain out. if not i'll try to take the filler neck off, and put a hose in there to pump it out.

another thing i forgot to mention, was that the check engine light stays on. instead of comming on, then shutting off after a few mins, it just stays on. is there a way to check and see what codes may be on it without buying a code scanner? like on my 95 gmc safari van OBD1 (same as chevy astro), to check the light, i had to shove a paperclip in 2 of the prongs in the test port under the dash, and the check engine light blinks a code. is there something like this on fords? thanks

-Mike

 

Unfortunately, no. But there is a neat little tool you can purchase for 12-15 bucks and when used as directed it will give you all the codes and directions for use . It is made by Thexton and I wil llocate the info and forward it to you.
Don't be concerned about the C/E lite. There is a way to get the codes from an older Ford system using an analog meter.
If the battery cable(s) were disconnected very recently or the ECA unplugged , there won't be any codes in the ECA.

 

as soon as i hooked the battery up after fixing the computer grounds, the light stayed on. i figured it must have found something wrong. it still starts up and idles smoothly with starting fluid tho. i'd apprecuiate the info, thanks .

As soon as i drop the tanks, i'll test the current fuel pump and see if its pumping, and let yall know. thanks again

-Mike

 

Just a reminder, on any replacement pump if you are going to test it ,don't test it at any time running it dry.

 

Hi Mike,
The part # for the Texton tool I mentioned earlier is#443. I have used it many , many times and I think it's great. Thexton's phone # is , 1-800-328-6277 and I believe it sells for $11.97 . Check it out on Thexton's website.