Obviously, this is a fuel concern; if the regulator is ok, then I'd check the pump again.

 

Update:

Not sure if this significant but there’s a new thing happening. As I stated earlier, when this all started, I would start the truck, and I could drive all day as long as I did not turn the engine off. When I did turn the engine off, it would not start for 20 minutes or so.

Now, I start and drive the truck, turn off the engine and I can restart the truck right away. If it sets for several minutes we are back to just cranking, no start for 20 minutes.

I did the spark test when the truck would not start, got spark at the coil and at the two plug wires I tested.

I tested the voltage at the in-line fuel pump and this is what I found.

Testing procedure as follows:

Hope I did it right?

Back probed the power lead with the positive lead from my multi-meter.
Found and grounded my negative lead from my multi-meter to frame bolt.
Turned on ignition and read 11.48
Started truck and read fluctuation between 13. 40 to 13.44

By the way, I had to go to autozone to buy test leads, and also picked up a fuel pump relay, and a pressure regulator. They were cheap, so I went ahead and replaced them, but still have the problem.

 

If you were able to check that voltage at the time you are cranking the engine , it might be a lot lower and not sufficient for the vehicle to start. It seems the pump is doing the job when the engine is running and the alternator is putting addl voltage into the system, but there isn't enough when attempting to start.
You may need to start right at the battery cables, then go to the fuel pump relay then to the pump itself and check for voltage drops. A questionable ground in the system could drive you nuts and you may have to chase it down to be sure all the connections are good.

 

Update:

Okay, looks like its fixed and you may not believe it.

The one new thing that happened after I replaced the fuel pump relay was my check engine light came-on. Took the truck to AutoZone and had them pull the codes. The code stored was P0117, which as you know points to a bad “Coolant Temperature Sensor”.

Bought one at AutoZone, in-stalled it, and trunk seems to be running fine. No starting issues as yet. I’ll driving the truck off and on today, turning it off as before and try to re-start it too see if in-fact this fixed the problem.

I have know idea why the trouble code didn’t set earlier, maybe one of you do? If it did, would have saved me allot of time.

I’ll let you know what happens.

 

You're right ! I find it hard to believe, but if you say it solved the problem and the truck runs and starts fine , that's all that matters.

 

Last update:

I've had the truck out four times now, driving for 15 minutes or so too bring the engine up to temp. Brought it home each time, turned the engine off, and it re-start every time. So it maybe safe to assume the problem is fixed.

I wanted to thank you very much for all your help!!! Like I said, don't know why it didn't set the code right away and hope I didn't waste too much of your time. Anyway, thanks again for all your help and everyone else who jumped in!

 

It was an in-range faluire; in other words, the ect was just 'dumb' and sending the wrong info. Glad Hanky fixed it!

 

Got news for ya!
Hanky didn't fix it , Kirkwa fixed it !

 

I'm going to call it a joint effort/joint success, you guy's where a big help! With your help I learned somethings and I think it's great that people in these forums are willing to apply their talents and time to help others that aren't as knowledgeable when it comes too car/truck problems.

So my thanks too you both!