History of truck:
Old farm truck and daily driver. When I picked it up December 2018, it had 260,000 miles on it. Rebuilt motor and transmission at around 225,000 miles. Has had three owners prior to me.
Problems I have noticed was it started rough. It idled high. It stalled at idle but was not consistent. Gas mileage was atrocious (8 mpg). But that was it.

Did an oil and air filter change and that helped some with gas mileage. Had the fuel filter changed which to find out was the original filter. Started getting better on mileage. Then it started to not want to start completely. I had a check engine light come on once very briefly then go away. Planned on taking it in to get checked when one day it just didn't start.

Turn the key to the on position and all the dash light came on. Turn the key over and it wanted to start, but wouldn't fully connect. Took to the shop and they checked the distributor, fuel pump, fuel line pressure, air line pressure, spark test, then after a week, found out my computer was fried from water damage. A few grounds where also fried. Got it all fixed up and it ran smoothly until yesterday.

No engine light came on as a warning. In the morning it was a little sluggish starting but it started. Went and fueled up and grab a bite to eat before my day started when I went bake to the truck, it would did the same thing it did before.

Dash lights on. Turn key to on position. Engine was cranking, but not starting. Towed it back to my place and trying to figure it all out again. I didn't diagnose the computer and don't really know how to. I don't have a tester and no place within walking distance has one on stock, but if it is the computer, a EEC-IV will not help diagnose the problem.

So I have a Chilton Ford '87-'96 manual. It's not very helpful. Can't find the other manual anywhere so I'll have to order it.

But for now, I am thinking my fuel pump is bad or my computer is bad... again. Anyone help walk me through the process of testing these two things to see if they are bad. I wave a Volt/Ohm meter ready. Just don't know what to do from here.

below is a pic of the dash board



Key in the on position

 

Welcome to the site.
Do you have a diagnostic/scan tool? If so, will it communicate with the PCM?
Does the fuel pump run a few seconds with the key cycled ON?
Any spark present, or injector pulse?
These would be present if the PCM was active

 

Fuel pump kicks on. No problem there. Finally was able to get someone to turn the truck on while I crawled under to actually hear the pump.

I have forgot how to do a lot of basic test, and with this truck am having to relearn a lot.

I don't have the tester/code reader EEC-IV that is compatible with my truck. I have a ohm/volt meter on hand right now.