My 2001 Super Duty(V10/auto/4x4, 97,000 miles) tries to start when below 20 deg. F. but only fires and dies. If I depress the accelerator with the key on and then hit the starter, it starts right up, goes through the high idlecircuit and idles/drives smoothly. Thetruck isdue for spark plugs, fuel filterand injectors cleaning. Is there another fix needed too?

This truck is driven on the highway (65-70 mph) about95% of the time. and usually gets 14-15.5 mpg. Lately that has dropped off to 12.5-13.5 mpg. I have had NO other drivability problems since I bought it new. In fact, it is the most trouble-free vehicle I have owned since I bought my first car in 1969.

 

Check your IAC valve to see if it is stuck closed. Also check to see if you have a small vacuum leak.

 

Thanks, BRETM. It really makes sense with the symptoms I have. I was going to remove and clean the IAC valve this past weekend, but holiday plans anda head cold got in the way. Still trying to get it done, but the problem seems to have gone away. I'll still clean and re-install, but am glad for the reprive until I feel better. I appreciate your quick response, and will post when I get off my but andget it done.

 

Need help, first time doing this. Trying to put a starter in a 69 Torino. Need someone to explain it to me or give me some websites that would help.

 

You can probably find diagrams and more info at your local library in a Motor's manual orClymer's Manual or other manual which covers the engine you have. Ford startersfrom the 50's-90's arepretty easy, regardless of the year, the engine series is more important. Basically 302's and 351's (either W, M, or C series) have a two-bolt starter. FE series, (390's 427's and 428's) have a three-bolt starter. The bolts hold the starter to the bellhousing. I'm not familiar with the six's.

You have to raise the front of the car, and suport it properly. Usejackstands, follow the directions that come with them so you don't get crushed. Disconnect the positive battery cable, (or both battery cables.) Crawl under the car and remove the starter cable from the starter. It is at, or close to the top of the starter, about in the middle (front to back.) Then remove thetop bolt (on FE engines, you will need a long extension, ratchet and socket (about 16-18 inches long)to reach over the top of the starter and get the ratchet room to turn in front of the exhaust manifold. Then remove the middle bolt if there is one. Some engines have a stud and nut on the bottom to make installation easier, somehave a bolt. Just loosen the bottom bolt or nut until you can turn it with your fingers. Support the starter with one hand--be careful, it isheavy and can fall out of the bellhousing--and remove the nut or bolt with the other. Tip the starter down and away from the bell housing, and it is free.

Take your starter to an auto store like NAPA, Checkers, Car Quest, or another parts store and have it tested. They will usually do this for no charge. They usually want a core, and you'll have it there to save a few bucks if you do need a new starter. You can be sure the new starter is an exact match. You can ask for a a rebuilt starter, and save quite a bit of money.

To install the new one, reverse the proceedure. And, while you are at it, clean the battery cables and posts, they are already off.

Safety First! Good luck.