sounds you like you have 2 differant concerns the fuel leak most likely being a seeping fuel pump or a leaking fuel vaccum switch and the intermittant no start when cold is most likely the glow plug relay(relay has burnt spots on the internal rotating contacts)-butunder no circumstances do not unplug the uvc harness injector wiring while the engine is running (like the other guy said to do) unless you want 115 volts of direct current running through your body and most likely killing you-this is why there is red tape on the engine wiring harness and a sticker under the hood stateing to not do this-buy a cheap dvom and test the glow plugs (without taking the v/covers of through the engine side connector-with the key off) they should read under 2ohms-also you can have someone cycle the key to test the voltage coming out of the glow plug relay-should be 12v on both large lugs when working properly-hope this helps ,mark.

 

I've done manual injector canceling 'many' times when an injector isolation box wasn't on site and/or handy, and been shocked in exactly 'zero' instances..Possible,, sure,, so is exposing my bare skin to a 'bite' on my coffee pot cord.. Breeds caution though.. Been 'lit up'more time's with HEI ignitions and have died exactly zero times, although I'm sure I skipped a beat or two there.. Unclipping the injector connector and sliding it back just far enough to interupt the power/current distributionto the solenoid won't get you shocked unless you put your finger across or into the connector.. It is high voltage there,, and I guess there's always those that willstick a dinner fork into a home receptacle to test for a good current..

 

Ok so I replaced my CPS and the truck now starts. The exhaust is blowing a smoke that's kinda bluish-whitish-gray in color smells like a duraflame log. Pretty sure there is fuel and oil in the smoke mix. Any ideas trouble shooting the smoke will be greatly appreciated.

 

well you may know what you are doing enough to not get shocked but you should not put that stupid **** into a post where someone could get hurt or killed-and you call yourself a true technician? i have been a ford technician for 22 years now and have gotten bitten by fords ignition systems on the gas engine several times (which just hurts a bit but wont harm you) on the other hand the IDM module can and will kill you, if you are not very carful-hence the extra precautions that ford put under the hood of all powerstroke equipped vehicles,-now to try to help the other guy-sounds like you need to run a cylinder balance test or a compression test(if the engine is running rough) the early models also had a bad oring system on the injectors (which have been upgraded)-thought you had a fuel leak?-also pull the oil filler cap off the engine after it is warmed up and see how much engine blowby you have(it should just wisp out a little smoke -if it "chugs" like a little frieght trian you got internal engine problems or a possible cracked injector sleeve),mark.


-
2002-f250 4x4
1992 f-150 4x4 flareside
1997 f-150 flareside
2008shelby gt350
2002-custom harley

 

Ok lets go back....

First let me give a 'caution' about the injector harness's.. If you should try a manual cancel on the injectors to diagnose a cylinder misfire/weak cylinder use a set of high tension or insulated pliers to removeand install the injector connection.. I use a scan tool and/or a injector isolation box for failure direction, but will verify the cylinder contributionby going direct to 'off line' the injector to take any harness issue out of the diagnostic.. I've never been nailed yet, but I guess that always a 'yet' out there..I usually never promote this, and willmost oftenpromote a shop diagnostic because of 'all' the inherant risks involved working on the PSD's.. But without and diagnostic tools available there aren't really any other options to diagnose a weak cylinder, or a failing injector.. More so if the harness connectorsprove out to be good...

So,, you never said weather you located the fuel leak??

If you stand in the exhaust stream ( I know another health risk warning does the exhaust smell 'sweet' or will it quickly make your eyes burn??

A sweet smell may indicate a injector sleeve or head gasket ect leaking coolant into the combustion chamber, and 'burning' would/may indicate excessive unburned fuel in the exhaust..

Burning oil,, although an irritant, usually is just has a heavy oil smell...

 

The exhaust smells strong and burns the eyes a bit. Smell is kind of mixed between normal diesel exhaust smell and some oil. Like I said sort of like a Duraflame log you burn in a fireplace. And no I have not yet located my fuel leak. Although it seems to have disappeared on its own. I'm not finding fresh puddles under the truck or drips anywhere that they had previously existed.

 

Well I guess we ought to pull all the jacks out the trucks as well?, since I would bet that more people have beenkilled dropping their own rig on themselves over electrocution with the IDM current.. Where do you draw the forumhelp lineat ,the warning label? It was suggestive only at this point, and a 'possibility' to DIY diagnose the misfire.. Your correct in the fact that I 'should have' brought up voltage cautions, but you can leave the challenges and explicativesout of the posts..

 

Hey come on guys. We need not make this thread into a warzone. I'm asking for some advice and help. Being an electrical engineer I'm not about to go playing with live high voltage DC power anythings. That work will be left for the dealer if I run out of options in the forums.

Thanks up to this point everyone.

 

Not a war zone for me..
He made a good caution point that slipped my mind.. I’ve been working on the 6.9, 7.3/PSD’s since they came into the line up, and a tech for 35 years and shouldn’t have let the caution go by..
Never the less,, without any diagnostic capability to check ‘each’ individual cylinder for a ‘good running performance’, and to help in a ‘direction’ of where to look in case of and including base engine problems, including DTC code retrieval if CEL, it just all guess work with no direction.. You always have a visual check of the harness’s (only up to the valve covers though) since it was a large problem for the early builds 7.3 burning both sides, but was more of a misfire condition over fuel smoke, and if no CEL is set (usually will with cooked connector on either side of the v/cover) and if no scan tool/functional testing is available to test for the combined performance,,,, ‘your done’..
Both of us have mention cylinder contribution test to help pinpoint the poor performance/idle, and the possible points for the fuel leaks.. The injector o rings if originals were a very common failing point and have been updated long ago.. Could certainly be your issue there.. Glow system can and will make for a hard start condition , but if the engine has started and continues to run rough/fuel smoke or misfire as it warms then chances are the glows aren’t the problem , possible portion of, and may be multiple problems getting it to start, but shouldn’t be a real concern at normal operating temps.. ..
I stand by my post in the fact that these injectors and the engines performance can be checked manually if your aware of the test concerns/precautions if no other equipment is available.. Diagnostic equipment can run a ‘buzz test’ to check the IDM/circuit issue and the individual injector solenoids audibly.. But,, the injectors can fail of both the electrical, and/or the mechanical side including the o rings.. Could be that you have multiple cylinders causing the smoke and the rough performance, but without some hands on diagnostic testing it’s no more than guessing which/where/why.. At 168K ‘chance’s[/i] are it’s not base related, but sometimes you have to find out what it’s not, before moving on.. Could be that it needs o ring updates, harness/connector repair and/or glow system components, or could get more involved, which most of this work is…..
Your best bet may be your local dealer….

 

LOL!!!!!