Greetings Everyone, been a long time, I used to have an account yrs back and this site and Helpful guys were a great resource to me a few times back when I had my 7.3, I know I had donated as well, but my original account seems to be gone, and I alos cant find the all 6.0 section to make this post, the site seems different to me. So as it turns out back in 2016 I bought this 6.0, I had probs early on which local shop fixed and luckily everything else was manageable myself or my buds shop in the city. But now Im at a total loss...

Here it is, 05 F350 6.0 diesel, 4x4 Lariat, 230k
No mods to speak of, likely an EGR delete was done before I bought it.
Just changed oil, As I restarted truck and was recording the date and miles, way before truck was warmed up with new oil, I seen reservoir was low on antifreeze, I removed the cap and I am saying that instant the truck began running like crap, missing acting crazy... So I added just over half of the ford red container coolant, nothing changed in the trucks performance for the better, I was looking at my torque [pro app and the ficm was above 48.

local guy that does work on trucks at house, said check fuel, so I drained and it looked good, I even adding as he recommended some 911 as maybe he thought I had too much water in system perhaps, because at time I had no codes coming up on phone.

so before I give full time line and bunch of nonsense, here is where im at with what I know.
New batteries done month ago, new fuel filters, new oil
the app showed i had bad Camshaft sensor po341, did that then truck wont start at all now, then it showed me a U1900 code and a b1352 code,

Now going back to When I knew I had bad cam sensor I said well since its an meffer to get down there, I will change that lower rad hose now finally, I pulled everything from top, air filter housing, the cac tube, which there went 145 bucks, I had to cut it, it was glued on, removed the batt, and housing, had to drian the power steering because the cam sensor hit the hose and tube from the steering pump.... I managed to move that a bit more, but perhaps its a replaced pump and thats where the nipple sits, in the damn way... hell...

a bud seen mice bedding under ficm, so i went there to see if I had chewing, no, all was good except as I pulled the ficm up initially the front plug was starting to come off, I looked and one tab was gone and when I just touched... just touched the other one busted... so at this point hoping thats not the prob, I tie wired it and just set it down unbolted to continue other guesses about truck.

I since tried to start again after that and no start, I watched all the numbers I am able to, ficm 48, ficm power 11.5, again new batts, so when key turned they drop a tad to 11.4 then 10.6 cranking, not that cold out., hpop at 1505 cranking, IPR at 51.8, recently it went to 73.1, also for several mths have been watching coolant oil temps when i drive, be averaging 10 apart. since I replaced lower rad hose new for coolant the yellow or whatever it is in the red bottles.
I checked the ICP behind the alt (approx) and no oil and plug seemed fine, tried to start with it unplugged, nothing.
I am about to run and get a motorcraft cam sensor, hoping that is the prob, i doubt it, because truck still dont start with the old one back in, maybe it also got a tad bent from the damn pump in the way, unreal... oh yeah, after i changed the cam sensor initially... ( i know it just keeps going....) the connector was jacked up and broke not clipping, so I replaced that sucker, and I wrapped it real good but not running it back along the block, ran it along the bigger harness out of way of anything hot, happy with that actually. the plug that also come from that harness is on top of engine and it looked fine, wires not hurt and plug fine too. not sure what that plug is.
seen the fuel bowl start to fill with diesel when cranking.

so again its not cold but I did show that 1, 4, 7 and 8 glowplugs might not be functioning or whatever, guy down st thought truck should still start. those were po678, 677,674, and 671.

Hoping its not a ficm issue, it was done the 1st yr i had truck, big bucks and also all the injectors on the ven side, all i could afford, used some sticktion oil stuff about 2 changes ago.
im not sure but i think this might be ficm sync but isfvp on the torque app sync? i get numbers of 1.5 volts cranking and 2 when key turned on.
I dont know if I did something worse while going in there or not... any help or thoughts as this has been torture...

I forgot my dang fluke meter up north so I can test stuff, even if I could figure it out,
thanks.
john

 

here is 2 links to what its doing now, sounds like it wants to start,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VTj2qL8rYAKwU2Mx8

then from engine compartment
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WYnaD4R6kPf5nqLw9

so this is slightly better after I put the motorcraft Cam Pos Sensor in this morning, but as you can see, still wont start up, also checked fuel bowl she filed up for sure.

 

Post what the ICP sensor volts are when cranking. Make sure it is plugged in.

FICM VPower is not anything related to sync. It is simply Vehicle Battery Power.

Post the Logic Voltage for the FICM also (LPower).

 

Bismic,
Thanks for the input and question.

So I didnt have the ICP Volts pid, just added it, I will check that out tomorrow,
but the FICM Logic power has been 11.5, 11. and 10.5, that was the lowest and happened only once.

 

I just went out and cranked it a bit, while cranking I have 1.7 ICP Volts
and I also added a ficm sync pid, it never moved, stayed at 0... so thats if that scan works, Im guessing I have no sync..

thoughts?

I replaced the connector as the clip broke when I took the old one off, but with a rather shorter one I bought from napa.
I also just seen Diesel Ron vid on the grounding wire, I didnt wrap the section I bought with it as I really didnt cut much from the original wire, so there was no grounding wire to add to the new section. for a fact i didnt mix the two wires, made sure the orange and red went to the correct side of the connector plug. AT this point if I have no sync and its the wire then maybe I have to cut more of that wire back....
but I dont know for sure, first experience with all this.

john

 

Do you need the programming for cam/crank sync? I can post that.

The harness conditions you describe are troubling. Hopefully they aren't the source of your problems, but they certainly could be.

You are getting an rpm signal when cranking aren't you?

From what I have seen, aftermarket cam sensors are not reliable, so I think you are on the right track replacing it. Also, they do get "rust jacked" - ie pushed out by rust formation so that they do not read reliably. When you remove it again, make sure the surface of the block where it contacts is not rusty.

 

I was actually thinking the issue might be with the connector I put on, (noticed the clip was busted, so i changed it)
The cam sensor in there now is a motorcraft.

So if I have this right, with no ficm sync it can be the pigtail for the cam sensor, the ficm or the front plug for the ficm?

I need a way to test my pigtail i think, dont want to just rip the one I put on there off, the longer pigtail online
is 99 bucks. ooff

This newest cam sensor i did, I did clean the seating area better, have to think im good there

 

THX, I got the 2 sync pids going on the torque, today test showed neither syncs, and had revs, 3rd try as I did a screenshot I didnt notice but i had both syncs at 1, but no revs???

the syncs never came bac and revs did....
im thinking bad ficm or that front connector at this point...

 

This might help:

 

You certainly could be right on the connectors. You can buy new connectors (all 3), with the wiring pigtails or without them. I can post links if you want them.

Edit - also (as an fyi), it is POSSIBLE to have FICM sync without cam/crank sync. Most people haven't seen it, but it does happen. Usually the cam sensor (or its wiring) is responsible.