Mechanic Says He Can't Fix Parking Brake
#1
08-03-2022 | 06:05 PM
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Mechanic Says He Can't Fix Parking Brake
2001 Ford E-350 XLT Super-Duty
This is a big extra long van that has an additional row of seats.
I bought this vehicle used, and the parking brake never worked. When I pushed the pedal, it would go down with no resistance, and the brake itself would not engage. I took the vehicle to a local mechanic to fix the parking brake and he replaced the following:
This is a big extra long van that has an additional row of seats.
I bought this vehicle used, and the parking brake never worked. When I pushed the pedal, it would go down with no resistance, and the brake itself would not engage. I took the vehicle to a local mechanic to fix the parking brake and he replaced the following:
- (2) Disc Brake Rotors
- (2) Disc Brake Calipers
- Parking Brake Shoe
- (2) Parking Brake Cables
- Disc Brake Pad Set
- Oil Seal
#2
08-03-2022 | 06:43 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15,294
Usually if new rotors and parking brake shoes are installed the shoes might need a encouragement to conform to the inner part of the rear rotors.
What you might try is , in a safe area , no other vehicles around, get the vehicle up to 5-10 miles per hour , then apply the parking brake to stop he vehicle . This will help to get better mating surfaces with the parking brakes. do this a few times, allow the bakes to cool and do it again a few times. you should see some improvement after each episode.
Let us know how you make out, thanks.
What you might try is , in a safe area , no other vehicles around, get the vehicle up to 5-10 miles per hour , then apply the parking brake to stop he vehicle . This will help to get better mating surfaces with the parking brakes. do this a few times, allow the bakes to cool and do it again a few times. you should see some improvement after each episode.
Let us know how you make out, thanks.
#4
08-05-2022 | 03:32 AM
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Posts: 1,236
You got some other kind of issue going on. If the park brake is totally non functional, that's more than just the lining material not conforming to a new surface.
#5
08-05-2022 | 07:10 PM
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Posts: 15,294
When you say non functional, what does that mean?
Do you feel any resistance when you depress the parking brake down?
If you do , burnishing the parking brake shoes will help get a good parking brake. That was the procedure I suggested to get better shoe to inner drum contact on inside of rotor.
If on the other hand you get no resistance and the parking brake pedal goes to the floor , it could mean the brake cable from the pedal to where the adjustment is under the vehicle is at the end of the adjustment travel in which case the front cable is stretched and a cable shortener is used to take up that stretch or the cable should be replaced.
The shortener is safe and works. That is most likely what your shop was recommending. Depending on which situation you have will determine which path to choose.
No big deal and no need to make a big project out of the situation.
Do you feel any resistance when you depress the parking brake down?
If you do , burnishing the parking brake shoes will help get a good parking brake. That was the procedure I suggested to get better shoe to inner drum contact on inside of rotor.
If on the other hand you get no resistance and the parking brake pedal goes to the floor , it could mean the brake cable from the pedal to where the adjustment is under the vehicle is at the end of the adjustment travel in which case the front cable is stretched and a cable shortener is used to take up that stretch or the cable should be replaced.
The shortener is safe and works. That is most likely what your shop was recommending. Depending on which situation you have will determine which path to choose.
No big deal and no need to make a big project out of the situation.
#6
08-09-2022 | 11:18 AM
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It's been one week, and I have been doing hanky's suggestion (driving 5-10 MPH, applying parking brake a few times). When I press the parking brake pedal, the van does slowly come to a stop at 5mph, so there has been some progress. But the parking brake still does not hold the vehicle on an incline in neutral. and is still very weak in general. What are your thoughts? I will continue with hanky's suggestion, but I still think there is some other issue at play.
#7
08-09-2022 | 02:23 PM
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If you apply the parking brake as far down as you can , then attempt to move the vehicle forward then in reverse ?
If it will not go forward , but will move in reverse, that tells us you need more work getting the parking brake shoes conformed to the inside of the rear rotors.
The more you get better surface contact shoe to rotor, the better it will hold. If that front cable is stretched and the shop cannot get anymore adjustment on the rear cables , a shortener will help..
Don't be afraid to ask questions of your shop. You depend on their work to stop your vehicle so a few questions never hurt and now you have some idea of how it works..
If it will not go forward , but will move in reverse, that tells us you need more work getting the parking brake shoes conformed to the inside of the rear rotors.
The more you get better surface contact shoe to rotor, the better it will hold. If that front cable is stretched and the shop cannot get anymore adjustment on the rear cables , a shortener will help..
Don't be afraid to ask questions of your shop. You depend on their work to stop your vehicle so a few questions never hurt and now you have some idea of how it works..
#8
08-09-2022 | 04:31 PM
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hanky--
I tried depressing the parking brake and moving the vehicle in reverse. The same amount of weak force is needed to move the van backward as it is to move it forward. Maybe a cable shortener is the answer (even though they replaced the cables)?
Thank you for your input on this one!
I tried depressing the parking brake and moving the vehicle in reverse. The same amount of weak force is needed to move the van backward as it is to move it forward. Maybe a cable shortener is the answer (even though they replaced the cables)?
Thank you for your input on this one!
#9
08-09-2022 | 05:44 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15,294
Mister T,
There are 3 cables involved.
I believe your shop only replaced the 2 rear cables. The one from the parking brake pedal to the rear of the vehicle is a stinker to replace and most shops don't look forward to the job. If it is frayed or broken, no choice , must be replaced. If OK otherwise just stretched, cable shortener is the easier path to take.
There are 3 cables involved.
I believe your shop only replaced the 2 rear cables. The one from the parking brake pedal to the rear of the vehicle is a stinker to replace and most shops don't look forward to the job. If it is frayed or broken, no choice , must be replaced. If OK otherwise just stretched, cable shortener is the easier path to take.
#10
08-29-2022 | 02:41 PM
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I reached out to the mechanic about the idea of a cable shortener, and this is what he had to say:
What do you the mechanism is that he is referring to? Does his explanation make sense?
Thanks for all the helpful input!
We tried a cable shortener when it was here, it didn’t make any difference - that is why we did not pursue any more concerning the cables. It seems the mechanism itself just doesn’t pull hard enough. I’m working remote, so I can’t look up the details, but it seems to me those mechanisms are not available anymore.
I know this is frustrating to you, as well as us. I would like to know the Ford mechanic who can fix it without spending a crazy amount of money. I’ve heard of that anecdotally before, but I’ve never seen one come back that’s been “fixed.”
Again, going from memory, I believe I spoke to at least two Ford dealerships myself, and they did not have a solution. If you have a phone number for someone who says it can be fixed, I would love to have a short chitchat with them if they wouldn’t mind. Go ahead and send me their phone number and name.
Another option of course, if you found a shop that is certain they can make that brake grab harder, have them do it and let’s see if the proof is in the pudding.
Either way, as a gesture of goodwill, consider this email a goodwill certificate for a half hour of labor for any future work that we do on your vehicles.
I know this is frustrating to you, as well as us. I would like to know the Ford mechanic who can fix it without spending a crazy amount of money. I’ve heard of that anecdotally before, but I’ve never seen one come back that’s been “fixed.”
Again, going from memory, I believe I spoke to at least two Ford dealerships myself, and they did not have a solution. If you have a phone number for someone who says it can be fixed, I would love to have a short chitchat with them if they wouldn’t mind. Go ahead and send me their phone number and name.
Another option of course, if you found a shop that is certain they can make that brake grab harder, have them do it and let’s see if the proof is in the pudding.
Either way, as a gesture of goodwill, consider this email a goodwill certificate for a half hour of labor for any future work that we do on your vehicles.
What do you the mechanism is that he is referring to? Does his explanation make sense?
Thanks for all the helpful input!