PLZ HELP - 2000 F350 SD 7.3 won't start
#1
PLZ HELP - 2000 F350 SD 7.3 won't start
I drove my 2000 F350 SD dually home - shut it off - now it won't start.
(almost 300,000 mile)
6 speed standard trans.
NOT 6X6 - wish it was :>)
I am NOT a mechanic, but usually try to fix my own stuff.
Won't even fire
- About 5,000 miles on new injectors and glow plugs
- 2,000 miles on fuel filter
- 3/4 tank of fuel
- I replaced the cam sensor - no effect
- I replaced the NEW cam sensor, thinking I might have gotten a bad one - still no start
- Replaced BOTH batteries with new.
- Replaced O-rings on filter bowl
- Can hear fuel pump cycle
- Removed fuel filter, turned ignition on and watched fuel bowl fill
( prob 3-5 seconds to fill)
I thought I might have an "oil pump issue" not allowing injectors to work.
To test this.... against my better judgement, I gave it a shot of starter fluid.
--> Truck fires right up, until starter fluid is burned.
It's my understanding it would NOT fire up on starter fluid, if oil pump was the problem..???
- My Tach doesn't "bounce" when cranking (not sure it is supposed to??)
- My oil pressure gauge doesn't move when cranking (not sure it is supposed to??)
I pastor a small church, and do asphalt work to supplement my income.
The scripture says if a man doesn't work - he doesn't eat ! :>)
I MUST work, and I can't work with-out my truck
Any ideas - what I might look for next. . . ???
Thanks in advance
(almost 300,000 mile)
6 speed standard trans.
NOT 6X6 - wish it was :>)
I am NOT a mechanic, but usually try to fix my own stuff.
Won't even fire
- About 5,000 miles on new injectors and glow plugs
- 2,000 miles on fuel filter
- 3/4 tank of fuel
- I replaced the cam sensor - no effect
- I replaced the NEW cam sensor, thinking I might have gotten a bad one - still no start
- Replaced BOTH batteries with new.
- Replaced O-rings on filter bowl
- Can hear fuel pump cycle
- Removed fuel filter, turned ignition on and watched fuel bowl fill
( prob 3-5 seconds to fill)
I thought I might have an "oil pump issue" not allowing injectors to work.
To test this.... against my better judgement, I gave it a shot of starter fluid.
--> Truck fires right up, until starter fluid is burned.
It's my understanding it would NOT fire up on starter fluid, if oil pump was the problem..???
- My Tach doesn't "bounce" when cranking (not sure it is supposed to??)
- My oil pressure gauge doesn't move when cranking (not sure it is supposed to??)
I pastor a small church, and do asphalt work to supplement my income.
The scripture says if a man doesn't work - he doesn't eat ! :>)
I MUST work, and I can't work with-out my truck
Any ideas - what I might look for next. . . ???
Thanks in advance
#3
The engine will fire with a start 'aid' even if their is ''zero'' high pressure oil building, and/or IDM, circuit, sensor, PCM issues ect..
Being it started assisted with ether you can take the glow relay out of the diagnosis, at least for a sustained run time issue. Anytime you introduce any kind of starting aid, you should always disconnect the glow relay otherwise it could possibly flame out the intake.
It really needs to be scan tool parameter checked for an active crank/RPM signal and for a minimum high pressure oil build of 500lbs during cranking. Without both of them present during cranking, the truck will not start. The injector driver module (IDM) won't deliver a pulse (fuel spray) to the injectors unless a spec/minimum signal of a 100 RPM is recieved. Without 500lbs of HPO for the 'push' needed for the injectors during cranking, can make for a no or hard to start problem.
With 300k on the clock the possibilities for a failure for components, IPR, HPOP, circuits/connectors, and so on are all suspect. Being it was running fine,, then shut off, and now no start,, the system parameter's being checked would be the first step otherwise good parts get replaced, and time lost. It gives you a direction to go for the diagnosis and repair. When you replaced the cam sensor, did you look at the connector? Any corrosion/loose or pushed out pins? Probably not, but always something you want to check on a sensor replacement. When you fired it with the ether, was there a tach movement indicated?
Being it started assisted with ether you can take the glow relay out of the diagnosis, at least for a sustained run time issue. Anytime you introduce any kind of starting aid, you should always disconnect the glow relay otherwise it could possibly flame out the intake.
It really needs to be scan tool parameter checked for an active crank/RPM signal and for a minimum high pressure oil build of 500lbs during cranking. Without both of them present during cranking, the truck will not start. The injector driver module (IDM) won't deliver a pulse (fuel spray) to the injectors unless a spec/minimum signal of a 100 RPM is recieved. Without 500lbs of HPO for the 'push' needed for the injectors during cranking, can make for a no or hard to start problem.
With 300k on the clock the possibilities for a failure for components, IPR, HPOP, circuits/connectors, and so on are all suspect. Being it was running fine,, then shut off, and now no start,, the system parameter's being checked would be the first step otherwise good parts get replaced, and time lost. It gives you a direction to go for the diagnosis and repair. When you replaced the cam sensor, did you look at the connector? Any corrosion/loose or pushed out pins? Probably not, but always something you want to check on a sensor replacement. When you fired it with the ether, was there a tach movement indicated?
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iownslaves
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04-01-2008 07:03 PM