I have an F-250 6.0 no start issue that has me stumped. Any help would be much appreciated!

Brief background:
HPOP was changed out in 2014, replaced all injectors w/OEM parts in 2015. ICP sensor changed out w/OEM part in 2019.

June/2021 - GPCM DTC code – changed it out.
July/2021- It started running rough w/the following codes:
P0273 #5 Injector low circuit- clip had exposed wire – taped it up w/electrical tape.

P1378 FCIM Power
P132B Turbo Control A Performance
P528 Cooling Fan Sensor

Before coming to this forum, my buddy said I should probably change out injector #5, which I did w/Motocrtaft remanufactured. It still ran rough w/same codes. So, I changed out the injector harness; while doing so, the RHS glow plug harness fell apart, so I changed out on both L&R sides & replaced pig tail clips to GPCM too. Also changed EGR Valve which was full of gunk - it still ran the same & continued to show same codes.

I found this forum and started to read a bunch about other people’s problems and possible causes. I changed out the MAP & EBP sensors & took it for test drive… it died on within a couple miles of home. I have been looking for answers in the forum and have learned so much … but not enough to get it to start. I also discovered 4 chafed wires/areas in the main harness on LHS anywhere it rubbed on shock stud & corrected those problems. I load tested both new batteries, changed fuel filters, checked all fuses & circuits, changed the FICM Relay just to be safe, inspected the wiring harness to all sensors & not able to find any visible chafes. A couple of days ago I lightly sprayed some starting fluid into breather tube & it cranked & ran for a few seconds, so I’m guessing its not getting any fuel.

I purchased an OBDII reader & downloaded Forscan Lite App for I-Phone as learned about on here.

The Forscan Lite live data from today WHILE CRANKING shown below:
Oil Pressure gauge is where it is normally while running - in the middle.
BAT -11.06 V
ICP .25 V
ICP 355.5 KPA
EOT – 3.5 V NO FAULT
ECT – 3.49 V NO FAULT
EGR - NO FAULT
BARO - 4.63 V
EBP_G – 0.0
FICM SYNC – YES
FICM LPWR – 11.22 V
FICM VPWR – 11.18
FICM MPWR – 48 V
FP - ON
FP_F – NO FAULT
MAP – 101.8 @ 1.32 V
MAF – NO FAULT
SYNC – YES
VGT_F – NO FAULT
VAIRINS_OK_ YES
VPR – 11.06
VREI – 5 V
IAT_F – NO FAULT
RPM – 199

Today’s DTC codes;
NO TCM Error Codes
PCM
P0273 injector # 5
P0673 GP #3
P0674 GP #4
P0678 GP #8
P01000
P2285-EO ICP Sensor– Didn’t show up on KOEO Test results but showed up in Error Log after cranking.
OBDII
P2285-C ICP Sensor
I did not have this code until I unplugged it 2 days ago in one of my attempts to get it to start.

So I’m not sure how to move forward at this point. I talked to a local diesel shop to see if they had scanner tool; kinda gave then the history & all. They say the IPR could be clogged up & prevent it from starting. I am going to go & jiggle the IPC wire & see if code goes away… but at this point I’m totally stumped out & really frustrated!

Is there a way to test the fuel pressure to injectors… or is the ICP sensor reading of 355.5 KPa telling me it’s getting fuel? If IPR is indeed clogged, why doesn’t it show a DTC code, would that prevent it from starting? After it does start, should I change out the FICM & have reprogrammed because of driver problem – DTC P0273??

Any directional help would be very much appreciated!! I know all this is long winded… but I don’t know where else to go to get any feedback before & giving up & have it towed into a shop & pay them to fix it!

 

Do you know why the battery voltage is so low?

 

Not sure why; looks like it started out @ 12.25 v when I turned key on & then started cranking. Batteries tested good under load test. Maybe they were not fully charged. I’ve since learned I need to have at least 500 psi on ICP to crank. Perhaps IPR is stopped up?

 

What year model 6.0L? How many miles on it?

11V with the glow plugs on and cranking is actually pretty good voltage, plenty for the control modules and your cranking rpms are very good.

You definitely have an issue with the high pressure oil pressure with 355 kpa at cranking. That is only 51.5 psi. Usually a leak that bad would be the HPOP discharge fitting. The original STC fitting (ONLY on the 05 and up model years) is a known failure point. If you have an 03-04 6.0L, then the HPOP is a known weak component (even if it was changed out in 2014).

It could be an IPR issue as you are thinking, but it would have to be stuck open. You could pull it and inspect it. Unless you have recently been into the engine, I would not immediately jump to an IPR valve issue though. BTW - a clogged IPR won't necessarily have issues with low HPO pressure because the IPR valve is a "dump valve". It releases oil to the crankcase to control pressure. Only if it is stuck open will it cause the low pressures in the HPO system.

In future troubleshooting, watch (and post) the IPR % duty cycle, ICP volts, ICP desired, ICP pressure (psi is preferred), and injector pulse width signals. Just be aware that the IPR % duty cycle is a commanded value. It does not represent an actual valve position.

If you want to do an air pressure test of the high pressure oil system, there are two ways - through the ICP sensor port, or through the IPR valve port. There are advantages to both. If you test through the ICP sensor port, you will need to command the IPR valve closed during the testing.

Just to be thorough - Are you using an OEM oil filter and OEM oil filter cap?

 

Hey bismc!
Thanks for the reply w/info! You sound like you've been around the block a couple of times w/all this stuff!!
Truck is 03 & has 361k on it... I've taken good care of it to get this far. I believe the oil filter cap is still the original, as I don't recall ever having changed it out. Learned so many lessons on this fix attempt issue!. First & foremost A WARNING TO ALL; spend more time diagnosing the problem vs. just throwing parts at it like I did, (up to $850 now & still more to go). My oil pressure/no crank problem was as a directs result of overtightening of the high pressure oil tube connector on the early 03 "log" style oil rail. Before changing injector #5, I watched parts 1-4 on YouTube on how to.. I was feeling kinda dangerous!! hahaha But after I got in there the procedure was for a different style oil rail and there was nothing mentioned on the quick connect release of high pressure oil line... so I just unscrewed it changed out the injector & apparently over tightened the connector when reinstalling. After changing out ICP, IPR, EBP, MAP, EGR Valve, FICM Relay, w/still NO start, I went back & removed valve cover & the HP oil line was detached... threads broke off in oil rail. Found part (3C3Z-6N853-BA - Oil Tube Connector) by searching threads here on forum & replaced it. It now cranks & runs with a miss like before; I still have the original problem that started all this mess; P0273 - injector #5 low circuit. Just to recap; I've changed out injector harness, glow plow harness's on both sides (LHS fell apart when removing valve cover), GPCM about a month ago, ohm tested the newly replaced injector (tested good), found & repaired chafed wires on main harness, load tested batteries, checked alternator w/blower & headlights on 13.34 V (one of issues I read that can cause damage to FICM). BTW.. old injector harness tested good!
Lessons, lessons, & more lessons learned!!!!

I'm using Forscan Lite for I-Phone w/OBDII reader -ELM 327 - V2.1... It seems to work fairly well but is picky about connecting sometimes.

Ran a KOEO Test today;
TCM- No DTC codes
.PCM- DTC Codes - P0273, P0528, P0673, P0674, P0678, P01000, P0132B

KOER Test -
B 13.88 v
ICP .88 v -1.08 v (fluctuates)
IPC 638-772 psi @ idle - 665 RPM
IPR 21.5% - 25%
FICM LPWR 13.5 v
FICM VPWR 13.5 v
FICM MPWR 48.5 (never fell below 45 v while cranking)
EBO 4.7 psi
FUEL_PW 1.22ms (fluctuates)
FUEL TIMING 0.64 - 0.92 (fluctuates)
FANSSM - Low

So the last thing I can see to replace at this point is the FICM. I've done more research on FICM issues; mine is 1838078C94 w/7 pin under the mini cover. I'm told its not repairable w/a new board like the 4 pin kind. I've read this type early model has drivers for each injector which can cause the P0273 DTC should one go bad. So at this point I'm still not sure what's going on or exactly what to do about it. Most all of the research says you either get proper amount of volts to FICM... or not. If not, then replace. So do I need a new FICM to fix the miss of injector # 5 not firing properly?? I've read that if I do replace it, that they will not come pre-programmed & it will need to be programed by dealer after installation. Is that correct??

I'm still stumped & needing some direction... Again any help will be very much appreciated at this point!

 

That ICP at idle sure looks a lot better!

The thing about FICM's is that logic side. No way for us to really test that. Companies like FICMrepair.com can test and repair the FICM - even the 7 pin. I have a 7 pin unit from them (as well as a few others) that has been repaired and upgraded. Their upgrade makes them more reliable, but you still need to make sure you keep voltage up to protect them.

IIRC CircuitBoardMedics also repairs and upgrades them.

 

OK... Status update report here. I contacted FICM Repair & ordered a refurbished FICM which arrived last Thursday; I opted for the level 2 replacement that came w/ 2 yr warranty vs. 1 yr ($150 Upgrade). Installed new FICM, cranked it up & I still have the same P0273 # 5 low circuit code & now an new one...P0275 - # 5 contribution balance. Ohmed #5 injector while hot & after it cooled down; it is within the tolerances shown in specs. So now I'm chasing wiring from 32 pin connector back to PCM/FICM Relay etc... I opened up loom & found wires were melded together & stiff where connector makes sharp 90 degree turn... separated them apart & found no exposed copper wiring tho, cleaned the pin connections using a torch tip cleaning tool, sprayed it out w/electrical cleaner, put it back on & cranked again...still same code showing.

So now I'm opening up the harness from 12 pin connector to FICM 32 pin plug to look for anything I can find. I've ordered a new AP0031 - 32 pin connector w/pigtail. I just can't believe this has been so hard to track down the problem. Injector # 5 is not firing because it is not getting proper voltage... why I still don't know! At this point not sure if it has anything to do w/PCM or not.... no PCM codes & as far as I can see by looking at wiring diagram it sends crank & cam sensor info to FICM, which then is In charge of voltage to injectors.

I work on this until I get tired & had enough of it... step back & take breather... then go back at it! Silver lining... sooo glad I'm not stuck out on the road somewhere w/5th wheel behind me!

Any suggestions from anyone?

 

You can ohm check the injector coils also.

 

Thanks for the feed back! Meaning what though… I could have a bad replacement injector #5 coil in addition to initial one being bad? 32 pin connector C1388c has 5 ground wires (BK/PK) & 4 power wires (DG/LG) which come from FICM Relay switched power… & 1 power wire from Relay - fused feed… lastly pin 7 (WH/BK) has power from start & run. When I ohm these out it they all come very close to .21 - .27 ohms. (assuming I’m doing it correctly) This is from 12 pin plug to 32 pin connector… Does that sound right… meaning wires are good & not the problem?

I’m confused about that now!

 

Assuming the injector is controlled by a switched ground on a constant 12v supply? If you have the pinout for the PCM control on #5 instead of chasing a break that may be inside of the insulation and therefore very difficult to find id cut that section out of the circuit (meaning from the pcm, and ground side only if it is ground side switched and you have your 12v on the other side) or and this is what i usually do since i have the tools but there is a thing for telephone work called an inductive amplifier, some people call them toners but anyway it is possible to put a tone on the wires and find the break with that but it must be unplugged at the PCM and the injector. Just my cent. Good luck.

EDIT: resistance testing does not verify integrity as it concerns ability to carry amperage. Loaded circuit testing must be done by "voltage drop testing". A test light would be useful in this instance.