sucking sound fuel filter f250 6.0 2004
#41
also, the cheap Chineese pumps are made out of questionable plastics and materials, when I gave it a gentle poke with a rubber mallet, the plastics cracked, the spring flew off, the whole thing fell apart. Later when I put in the original one to test it, I hit it a few times much harder and nothing, still intact - sure its broken and not working, but atleast its good quality.
So lesson learned, spend the extra money, don't buy Chineese copies for nothing :- )
So lesson learned, spend the extra money, don't buy Chineese copies for nothing :- )
#42
so, I put the pump in, it sounded normal and no more gargling noise, but it wouldn't start... so I opened the top filter and it had no fuel (keep in mind that I removed the fuel tank and all the in/out lines inside), so was thinking the pump wasn't made to suck the fuel like that, so I poured down fuel in the top filter with the key off. I waited a few minutes and watching it go down, I repeated this like a good 4-5 times, then I turned the key on a few times, and that purged a lot of air out.
So this was my way to prime the lines with fuel.
I then closed the cap (after seeing the fuel was maintaining it's level) and did the key on/engine off 4-5 times and saw no air bubbles coming out in the fuel tank (and the pump still sounded normal). So I turned it on, it ran but would hesitate and turn off, at irregular intervals. So I gave it a little gas and kept the rpms at about 1250, at that rpm it has enough speed to recover from an air pump in the fuel system, so it won't turn off. I ran it like this for a good 10 minutes, it would not stay on idling by its self, it would eventually die.
So I took a break, went inside had some kumbocha, 10 minutes later I went back and turned it ON, with no gas. It started with a nice consistent idle and stayed there for 15 minutes, not a single air bump and had a consistent sounding idle.
So I am happy indeed, now I want to do a cold engine test, so later tonight and tomorrow in the a.m. I am also expecting for it to turn on and stay there idle with no hesitations ever.
HooRay!
So this was my way to prime the lines with fuel.
I then closed the cap (after seeing the fuel was maintaining it's level) and did the key on/engine off 4-5 times and saw no air bubbles coming out in the fuel tank (and the pump still sounded normal). So I turned it on, it ran but would hesitate and turn off, at irregular intervals. So I gave it a little gas and kept the rpms at about 1250, at that rpm it has enough speed to recover from an air pump in the fuel system, so it won't turn off. I ran it like this for a good 10 minutes, it would not stay on idling by its self, it would eventually die.
So I took a break, went inside had some kumbocha, 10 minutes later I went back and turned it ON, with no gas. It started with a nice consistent idle and stayed there for 15 minutes, not a single air bump and had a consistent sounding idle.
So I am happy indeed, now I want to do a cold engine test, so later tonight and tomorrow in the a.m. I am also expecting for it to turn on and stay there idle with no hesitations ever.
HooRay!
Last edited by kodiak_f250; 06-29-2017 at 07:42 PM.
#43
1) I don't think it is a bad o-ring on the primary filer, I tried 3 different ones, all were new and even the older one - and the problem persists, also tried 3 different type of primary filters and that didn't work.
2) I put a bunch of teflon tape around the threads and put the drain plug back in there pretty tight - problem still there.
3) the fuel tank is like 3/4 way filled, so even if that tube fell off, it would seem to be "ok"
when I did that isolation fuel test, I noticed a lot of air bubbles flowing through the tube (even if it wasn't under the fuel level) in that growler and I noticed when I was cycling the key, that there was like white fumes coming out, maybe from the engine cycling ? not sure if that is normal or not...
I hate to spend even more money of this crap truck and only to find out, that is not the problem I already replaced the fuel pump in the primary fuel area and with the old fuel pump, the problem was the same, so it wasn't the fuel pump at all.
Question: is there a way to find out if the air is coming from the manifold ? some kind of test ?
Is there a for sale area on this forum :-) lol
2) I put a bunch of teflon tape around the threads and put the drain plug back in there pretty tight - problem still there.
3) the fuel tank is like 3/4 way filled, so even if that tube fell off, it would seem to be "ok"
when I did that isolation fuel test, I noticed a lot of air bubbles flowing through the tube (even if it wasn't under the fuel level) in that growler and I noticed when I was cycling the key, that there was like white fumes coming out, maybe from the engine cycling ? not sure if that is normal or not...
I hate to spend even more money of this crap truck and only to find out, that is not the problem I already replaced the fuel pump in the primary fuel area and with the old fuel pump, the problem was the same, so it wasn't the fuel pump at all.
Question: is there a way to find out if the air is coming from the manifold ? some kind of test ?
Is there a for sale area on this forum :-) lol
This type of stuff (ie failure of newly purchased parts) makes it very hard to troubleshoot. It is the main reason that I primarily stick w/ OEM parts (a few well documented exceptions). Parker Hannifin is the OEM supplier, so it seems that another part needs to be only OEM. Also, as you noted - made in America!
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