Won't start/ New Batteries
#1
Won't start/ New Batteries
I have a 2000 F250 7.3 diesel that started fine yesterday but this morning wouldn't start up. Took the batteries out and had them checked out both were bad. I bought two new batteries installed them and still no start. Turn key and nothing but the lights and other things seem to be working. All of the large fuses under the hood seem to be good when checked. Don't know about the relays under there. Fuses under the dash seem to be good too. Any ideas on what I can check to get it to start or what I should check?
#5
When you turn the key on does the wait to start light come on? That shouldn't prevent the starter from working, just trying to see if any other functions are affected.
When you turn the key to the start position, power is supposed to go from the ign sw down to the MLPS (neutral safety) sw then on to the starter relay.
If you have a test lite or voltmeter you can check if this is taking place .If you do have power to the starter relay and it operates ,you are looking at a starter problem. Check and go from there.
When you turn the key to the start position, power is supposed to go from the ign sw down to the MLPS (neutral safety) sw then on to the starter relay.
If you have a test lite or voltmeter you can check if this is taking place .If you do have power to the starter relay and it operates ,you are looking at a starter problem. Check and go from there.
#6
When you turn the key on does the wait to start light come on? That shouldn't prevent the starter from working, just trying to see if any other functions are affected.
When you turn the key to the start position, power is supposed to go from the ign sw down to the MLPS (neutral safety) sw then on to the starter relay.
If you have a test lite or voltmeter you can check if this is taking place .If you do have power to the starter relay and it operates ,you are looking at a starter problem. Check and go from there.
When you turn the key to the start position, power is supposed to go from the ign sw down to the MLPS (neutral safety) sw then on to the starter relay.
If you have a test lite or voltmeter you can check if this is taking place .If you do have power to the starter relay and it operates ,you are looking at a starter problem. Check and go from there.
#7
Hi Larry,
Did you get a chance to do the checks I suggested earlier ?
For that amount of $$$$ you should have bought the store. I hope they gave you a NEW starter because a rebuilt would have been much lower in cost.
It is quite unusual for starter and batteries to go south at the same time. Was this vehicle setting around unused for some time? These little bits of info are important and good to know.
When you say you get nothing turning the key to the start position , do you hear any kind of clicking at all?
Did you get a chance to do the checks I suggested earlier ?
For that amount of $$$$ you should have bought the store. I hope they gave you a NEW starter because a rebuilt would have been much lower in cost.
It is quite unusual for starter and batteries to go south at the same time. Was this vehicle setting around unused for some time? These little bits of info are important and good to know.
When you say you get nothing turning the key to the start position , do you hear any kind of clicking at all?
#8
This is an auto trans, correct ?
Hanky’s suggestion on checking the starter motor relay (solenoid ) on the passenger side fender area near the batt for an ‘active’ ignition switched circuit is good direction.
It’s a very quick way to prove out everything ‘north’ of the solenoid meaning all components from the fuses, ignition switch, trans range sensor on out to the solenoid.
On an auto, the small tan/red wire should have power there when the ignition switch is cycled to ‘Start’ position
Doubtful any fuse issue, but make sure fuse #20/15amp in the CJB has power there when cycling the ignition switch, more so if you don’t hear the solenoid ‘clicking’ when a crank attempt is made. But if quick checked at the solenoid as noted, that fuse would have to be good .
Hanky’s suggestion on checking the starter motor relay (solenoid ) on the passenger side fender area near the batt for an ‘active’ ignition switched circuit is good direction.
It’s a very quick way to prove out everything ‘north’ of the solenoid meaning all components from the fuses, ignition switch, trans range sensor on out to the solenoid.
On an auto, the small tan/red wire should have power there when the ignition switch is cycled to ‘Start’ position
Doubtful any fuse issue, but make sure fuse #20/15amp in the CJB has power there when cycling the ignition switch, more so if you don’t hear the solenoid ‘clicking’ when a crank attempt is made. But if quick checked at the solenoid as noted, that fuse would have to be good .
#9
Yes the trans is automatic. I have turned the key in the on position and had the wife turn it to the start position went to the starter relay on the finder checked for power and there is power so I got a screw driver and arced across the screws and the truck started right up and ran just fine. So with that said I would think something is wrong with the wiring between the relay and the starter don't you think or could I be barking up the wrong item.
#10
Yes the trans is automatic. I have turned the key in the on position and had the wife turn it to the start position went to the starter relay on the finder checked for power and there is power so I got a screw driver and arced across the screws and the truck started right up and ran just fine. So with that said I would think something is wrong with the wiring between the relay and the starter don't you think or could I be barking up the wrong item.