2002 ZTW refuses to start
#1
2002 ZTW refuses to start
2002 has spark, compression, and gas refuses to start
Have put timing belt, head gasket, fuel pump, plugs, wires, fuel rail pressure sensor and numerous other parts. Even put a new computer in it.
I am at a total loss, have gone thru the wiring, checking all the grounds that I could find, had the PATS function checked.
Cranks fast and sounds like it wants to take off just won't hit.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Have put timing belt, head gasket, fuel pump, plugs, wires, fuel rail pressure sensor and numerous other parts. Even put a new computer in it.
I am at a total loss, have gone thru the wiring, checking all the grounds that I could find, had the PATS function checked.
Cranks fast and sounds like it wants to take off just won't hit.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
#2
Right off the bat,,,,,,, if you changed the PCM you need a scan tool to do a parameter reset to the replacement PCM. It may not even work now if you try installing the original PCM. Please explain "had the PATS function checked".
The functionality of your PATS is contained in the PCM. What was the theft lamp doing when you were trying to get it started before you replaced the PCM ?
The functionality of your PATS is contained in the PCM. What was the theft lamp doing when you were trying to get it started before you replaced the PCM ?
#3
The parameter reset was done, they call it flashing the PCM, then I installed it and took to a dealer to program the keys to the PCM which is the PATS function. I took it back to the dealer to have it re-checked as everything led me back to the PCM. You are correct in saying that the original PCM re-installed will not work as the keys are no longer recognized by the PCM since having them flashed for new PCM. The PATS light was functioning properly prior to PCM replacement. The PATS light is functioning properly now. I changed PCM because I misdiagnosed the original problem. I have also put the original PCM back in the car and had the keys programed to it and I had keys for the replacement also and was able to swap back and forth between the two.
#4
OK !
Now bring me up to speed.
Why did you change the timing belt and head gasket? Is it safe to assume the vehicle did not have a starting problem before the head gasket and timing belt change?
Did you use the correct timing marks when installing the new belt?
What other parts did you change?
Did you install an aftermarket fuel pump or did you get it from Ford?
Were you able to verify actual fuel pressure?
Now bring me up to speed.
Why did you change the timing belt and head gasket? Is it safe to assume the vehicle did not have a starting problem before the head gasket and timing belt change?
Did you use the correct timing marks when installing the new belt?
What other parts did you change?
Did you install an aftermarket fuel pump or did you get it from Ford?
Were you able to verify actual fuel pressure?
#5
Make no mistake about the fact this car was not running from the beginning. All work has been done in accordance with the repair manual. The timing belt was intact when I started. Many things were done because of bad diagnostics. I do believe the problem is electrical not mechanical. The car has but 65,000 on it. When I started working on this I had been influenced by a prior diagnosis as I picked it up from a repair garage. The motor sounded as thought the belt were broken. The fuel pump is an aftermarket and yes I have fuel pressure. This problem is certainly electrical, The main ground was not connected on the block due I am sure to the fact that the car had been worked on previously and someone mistakenly in my opinion thought the eyelet use was to hold the wire in place as Ford had the main ground and positive wire to starter in same harness and branched them off at the bell housing. At that juncture one could have mistaken it (ground connection) for a wire securing outlet on the wire. Many people that work on cars seem to leave bolts and fasteners to secure things in place loose as they can be a pain to get to. I am sure that by the main ground wire being loose this car was starved for ground while cranking thereby getting ground thru paths of least resistance. I have found overheated connections on starter relay and replaced the relay. Also replace the battery saver relay as it was getting very hot while sitting.
There has to be a ground connection somewhere that I have yet to find somewhere. That is my opinion.
There has to be a ground connection somewhere that I have yet to find somewhere. That is my opinion.
#6
At least you still have an open mind which by this time is commendable.
If the questions I ask seem a pia it's because all the bases have to be covered.
You must verify fuel pressure with a gauge , have you done that?
Did you remove a spark plug and see if it was wet or dry after trying to start it?
If it was dry, can you give the intake a shot of carb/choke cleaner and see if it will run some then?
If it fires up then, spark timing should be OK, and now we can concentrate on fuel injection. What do you think?
You state the vehicle was at a repair garage. Do you know what, if anything, they may have done to it?
If the questions I ask seem a pia it's because all the bases have to be covered.
You must verify fuel pressure with a gauge , have you done that?
Did you remove a spark plug and see if it was wet or dry after trying to start it?
If it was dry, can you give the intake a shot of carb/choke cleaner and see if it will run some then?
If it fires up then, spark timing should be OK, and now we can concentrate on fuel injection. What do you think?
You state the vehicle was at a repair garage. Do you know what, if anything, they may have done to it?
Last edited by hanky; 06-21-2013 at 04:53 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post