I had a wierd tranny noise, put in a half bottle of "lucas tran. cleaner"
(dont remember the actual product name but it is by "lucas")
this was on a recomendation from a 60+Y/.O mechanic that i know.
Now i swear by the stuff. maybe it will work for you.

 

Synthetic is better for your motor. It's cleaner than reg. oil and you don't get oil build up.

 

sorry , once again , if you had run syn. yes you can go back to using reg. oil , it will have no effect on your engine

I've been cranking wrenchs for a tad over 35 yrs now. theres all kinds of ppl with there BS stories , of things they have been told or have seen , I have to sit back an laugh ;

Oh I run reg. motor oil in truck , an have been changing the oil at 5000 miles for yrs now, no problems ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

hey josser are you serious, flush your engine,,,, ford recommends 5w20 which is not synthetic and is still 3000miles or 5000km and it doesnt matter what engine you have 2.3l,3.0l.4.2l 4.6l,5.4l,6.8l ,,,,,,only 4.0 litlre engines take 5w30 svt or not!

 

just about all of todays synthetics are compatible with conventional oil, doing so will just take away from the extra protection of the synthetic oil. The 5W20 motorcraft oil my '03 ranger and '05 F-150 calls for is a synthetic blend. Not sure if a conventional 5W20 is even available under the Mortotcraft name, it's not in my area. I have never used the 5W20 since the first oil change on either vehicle, I prefer the better fuel enonomy and longer drain intervals of the full synthetic oil that are available, mine being 0W30.

 

Being mineral or synthetic has nothing to do with gearshift characteristics, the oil viscosity is responsible.
Suggest you first check your vehicle owners handbook to identify what it should be, then ask the sevice people what they put in and compare. As an example you might find that the book says SAE 75W (approx the same viscosity as an SAE 10W engine oil or ATF) and they put in 75W/90 or 80W/90 which is approx SAE 30, no doubt you would have a shift problem - 3 times heavier/thicker.

 

engine oil, regardless if it's synthetic on conventionial will not affect your shifting. The synthetic engine oil is the better choice for the longitivity of the engine, better fuel economy and being that your in Ohio, easier cold starts in the winter months. With your trans problem, using synthetic fluid would not cause any problems. For at least the past 15 years Ford has used nothing but automatic trans fluid (ATF) in most of it's manual transmissions. If your trans was serviced and they used regular gearlube instead of the ATF, you would experiance the shifter being quite a bit harder to move during the colder months until the trans came upto temp. Even at operating temp. regular gearlube would feel a bit more firm while shifting, but only a minimal differance.

With all the said, I would suggest that your engine oil change has nothing to do with what you are experiancing in your trans.

 

I use syns. It doesn't matter if hard crack and syns are mixed. Last fix first. Your problem is Jiffy lube. They knocked a wire off a sensor by supporting the car incorrectly or the 'mechanic' knocked a sensor wire off or broke the sensor. Or there's an adjustment they moved.

Syns are better. If your engine doesn't leak use them and change @ 5000-7500. You don't have to believe me. Project Farm on YouTube tested syns V hardcarck. I have rebuilt more engines than l care to think about. There's a night and day difference between the internals appearance using syns v hardcark. BUT if your engine has a tiny seep syns will make it a leak. Go back to hard crack will usually make them just deep again.

I bet Jiffy Lube started your car's problem.