Help..I replaced the a/c compressor and accumulator and when I rehooked the neg battery clamp, the radio came on (it was off) and dash lights acted weird. Now, I can't even get it to crank. It just makes 1 click when key turned to start. Checked all the fuses and they appear to be ok. I can get starter motor to fire by going direct. Battery seems ok, all lights work. For some reason I can't pull codes from the OBDll. My neighbor/mechanic thinks it's an anti-theft issue that won't let it crank(is there some trick the the key to overide anti-theft?). I think something got blown...I had to pull the alternator to access the compressor. Please help...any ideas?

 

I have a LIMITED, don't know what model you have, but I would assume that the grounding should be the same. When you unbolted the housing for the dryer/accumulator, there should have been a small GROUND wire connected to the right side (looking at the accumulator) stud. Was this wire re-connected? This will cause all kinds of weird electical gremlins (lights doing weird stuff, radio freaking out and starting issues.

Why did you replace the A/C compressor? Black death? If so, you should have replaced the condensor, flushed the evaporator and replaced the orifice tube. If dual A/C, you should also flush the rear evaporator/lines and replace the rear expansion valve. If not, you will end up with a failed compressor again due to the crud blocking the orifice and starving the compressor of oil.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, we grounded that wire to the accumulator. The car is in the shop, and I'll tell their mechanics to double check that wire. It might have been left off when we first tried to get it started...but my friend did mention it and made sure it was grounded. So far no joy at the shop. I am wondering if it could be a blown PCM. In the Shop Manuals' Pinpoint Test for no crank mentions the PCM as 1 thing to check. I am surprised the shop hasn't been able to get it to crank and start. It could be that the TRS is blown..but we tried to start in all gears and nothing. Could it be a clown ECU? I am at a loss.

 

Common sense..YOU WERE RIGHT. It was that ground wire off the drier. WE checked it twice and no joy...the shop just rig up another one from the drier case bolt..and it worked. I still need to install the orifice. So that means digging down through the wiper backing and trying to get the old one out without the Ford special tool. I'll try it anyway with tweasers. Thanks again for you accurate evaluation of the problem. Oh...the compressor just quit ...no warning. The only run about $100 online...so that's a break

 

Glad you got it fixed. At least your's wasn't starting by itself like mine was. THAT was real interesting. Turn the key to the "ON" position to put the window down and the engine would start by itself.

Anyways...

If you pull the wipers and upper and lower cowling off, the orifice is right in your face and easy to disconnect the line and pull the orifice out.

If you see any grayish to black crud built up on the orifice, the crompressor fell apart on you and you will need to replace the condensor as these use non-flushable condensors or you'll end up with another failed compressor.

My compressor failed due to Ford not installing enough oil in the system and the system having moisture in it from the factory.

Here's my A/C post for you to review if you want: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-freestar-17/2004-freestar-c-repair-13991/