"Interior lights come on while driving"
#1
"Interior lights come on while driving"
I don't know how to check if this was previously covered so, here goes ...
The dome lights recently started coming on if I hit a bump just right or, just randomly come on so, I purchased a Standard Brand part #US431 from O'Reilly's. It was good for about a month and the lights started coming on again. I called O'Reilly's and spoke with the Manager there. He said he could "Warranty replace" it and assured me if I had the same problem, I could return it for down payment on either the Dorman brand or Motorcraft brand, which either would have to be ordered. I returned it, put it in and, this time, the lights started coming on again within a few days.
So, first, I went to Standard Brands website and sent them an email with my concerns. They replied after a couple of days with specific questions ...
We are sorry to hear you are having an issue. Please provide the year, make and model of the vehicle that the US431 is installed on.
What was the original (prior to the SMP part) issue that necessitated replacement?
To which I replied;
To whom it may concern;
Our vehicle is a 2007 Ford Freestyle Limited.
The issue that necessitated replacement was similar to what is happening now. If the key moves at all, the interior lights came on. The contacts are all within the switch, not in the tumbler.
The first replacement was good for nearly a month, when I went over railroad tracks and the interior lights came on. I jiggled the key a bit and the lights went out. This progressively got wors so I got it replaced. The parts store (O'Reilly Auto Parts) where I purchased the switch honored their replacement policy and gave me a different switch. This one has done the same thing once so far. I can move the key just a bit and the interior lights will go out.
I am not sure where these parts are manufactured but, I did see on the box the switch came in, "Made in China". This is kind of where I am questioning the integrity of the parts.
Sincerely,
Here was their response to that ...
Hello,
Thank you for the information.
So the original issue is still happening even though the ignition switch has been replaced twice. Although the ignition switch is involved, it may not be the root cause.
There is a module in your vehicle called a smart junction box (SJB) which detects a request for lighting. It turns on the interior lamps by supplying power to the lamps.
We mention this to illustrate the point that vehicle diagnosis can be very involved and if not done properly can result in parts being replaced unnecessarily.
We will keep an eye on the US431 to look for any trends. Unfortunately, we are unable to provide diagnostic analysis for your vehicle. We recommend consulting a certified technician to troubleshoot the vehicle.
We apologize for the inconvenience.
Vehicle Control Customer Claims
So, I returned the second switch to O'Reilly's.
There is a salvage yard here that still allows customers in the yard so, I went there and grabbed a couple out of wrecked vehicles, figuring a different OEM switch would resolve the problem. Nope still doing it.
My question here is this, ... Is there a return spring within the lock cylinder housing that may have either broke or became weak? The vehicle has nearly 225,000 miles on it. Or' should I break down and pay like, $85 or more for a Motorcraft part?
The dome lights recently started coming on if I hit a bump just right or, just randomly come on so, I purchased a Standard Brand part #US431 from O'Reilly's. It was good for about a month and the lights started coming on again. I called O'Reilly's and spoke with the Manager there. He said he could "Warranty replace" it and assured me if I had the same problem, I could return it for down payment on either the Dorman brand or Motorcraft brand, which either would have to be ordered. I returned it, put it in and, this time, the lights started coming on again within a few days.
So, first, I went to Standard Brands website and sent them an email with my concerns. They replied after a couple of days with specific questions ...
We are sorry to hear you are having an issue. Please provide the year, make and model of the vehicle that the US431 is installed on.
What was the original (prior to the SMP part) issue that necessitated replacement?
To which I replied;
To whom it may concern;
Our vehicle is a 2007 Ford Freestyle Limited.
The issue that necessitated replacement was similar to what is happening now. If the key moves at all, the interior lights came on. The contacts are all within the switch, not in the tumbler.
The first replacement was good for nearly a month, when I went over railroad tracks and the interior lights came on. I jiggled the key a bit and the lights went out. This progressively got wors so I got it replaced. The parts store (O'Reilly Auto Parts) where I purchased the switch honored their replacement policy and gave me a different switch. This one has done the same thing once so far. I can move the key just a bit and the interior lights will go out.
I am not sure where these parts are manufactured but, I did see on the box the switch came in, "Made in China". This is kind of where I am questioning the integrity of the parts.
Sincerely,
Here was their response to that ...
Hello,
Thank you for the information.
So the original issue is still happening even though the ignition switch has been replaced twice. Although the ignition switch is involved, it may not be the root cause.
There is a module in your vehicle called a smart junction box (SJB) which detects a request for lighting. It turns on the interior lamps by supplying power to the lamps.
We mention this to illustrate the point that vehicle diagnosis can be very involved and if not done properly can result in parts being replaced unnecessarily.
We will keep an eye on the US431 to look for any trends. Unfortunately, we are unable to provide diagnostic analysis for your vehicle. We recommend consulting a certified technician to troubleshoot the vehicle.
We apologize for the inconvenience.
Vehicle Control Customer Claims
So, I returned the second switch to O'Reilly's.
There is a salvage yard here that still allows customers in the yard so, I went there and grabbed a couple out of wrecked vehicles, figuring a different OEM switch would resolve the problem. Nope still doing it.
My question here is this, ... Is there a return spring within the lock cylinder housing that may have either broke or became weak? The vehicle has nearly 225,000 miles on it. Or' should I break down and pay like, $85 or more for a Motorcraft part?
#4
He didn't download my Front_Door.pdf and Rear_Door.pdf already indicated that he doesn't think door latch is the root cause of the problem.
A loose electrical wire/connection under dash due to road vibration could be the cause, but there is nothing to do with ignition switch.
His door switch is integrated into the door latch. Due to countless opening and closing, especially the driver door, and especially without routine lubrication maintenance, has higher chance than loose wire under dash, to be the root cause of the issue.
A loose electrical wire/connection under dash due to road vibration could be the cause, but there is nothing to do with ignition switch.
His door switch is integrated into the door latch. Due to countless opening and closing, especially the driver door, and especially without routine lubrication maintenance, has higher chance than loose wire under dash, to be the root cause of the issue.
Last edited by heiko; Yesterday at 09:37 AM.
#5
Heiko, Hanky;
Thank you both for your replies. I do NOT believe it to be in either of those locations.
1) Heiko, there are no other interior electrical issues at this point. I see no reason to throw nearly $1000 at an "SJB" besides having to pay a mechanic (probably a Dealer mechanic specialized in the electrical field) to replace it.
2) Hanky, Yes, I've considered this but, I lube the door hinges yearly and also sprayed the door catches at the same time. I hate having to slam doors to properly close them. I totally hate when a passenger slams a door because they are accustomed to this behavior! My granddaughter will vouch for that.
I am pretty much convinced it is due to a failing spring or simply age wear in the ignition housing itself. The lights immediately turn off if I move the key one way or the other. There is nearly 1/4 inch of play moving the key back and forth (NOT in and out). This is why I initially replaced the switch itself, hoping to reduce that play. This is why I am asking the questions I have.
Thank you both for your replies. I do NOT believe it to be in either of those locations.
1) Heiko, there are no other interior electrical issues at this point. I see no reason to throw nearly $1000 at an "SJB" besides having to pay a mechanic (probably a Dealer mechanic specialized in the electrical field) to replace it.
2) Hanky, Yes, I've considered this but, I lube the door hinges yearly and also sprayed the door catches at the same time. I hate having to slam doors to properly close them. I totally hate when a passenger slams a door because they are accustomed to this behavior! My granddaughter will vouch for that.
I am pretty much convinced it is due to a failing spring or simply age wear in the ignition housing itself. The lights immediately turn off if I move the key one way or the other. There is nearly 1/4 inch of play moving the key back and forth (NOT in and out). This is why I initially replaced the switch itself, hoping to reduce that play. This is why I am asking the questions I have.
#6
Does the dome light stay on intermittently when you hit a road bump or so or continuously without the key being in ignition switch?
Replacing the SJB is your last resort and the chance you have a malfunction SJB is next to zero.
Above diagram shows the ignition switch and it doesn't have anything to do with courtesy light, and dome light can be turned on/off without the key.
Do you think you can handle removing the most of the components around the steering column (except the steering wheel) so I can submit more diagrams?
Replacing the SJB is your last resort and the chance you have a malfunction SJB is next to zero.
Above diagram shows the ignition switch and it doesn't have anything to do with courtesy light, and dome light can be turned on/off without the key.
Do you think you can handle removing the most of the components around the steering column (except the steering wheel) so I can submit more diagrams?
#8
I do however, remember, when I pulled the first new switch to replace it, I just plugged the original switch back in and drove nearly 7 miles of stop and go traffic back to the nearest O'Reilly's with the key in the unlocked position so I could steer. I don't recall the interior lights coming on at all during that trip.
#9
As far as I know, just the exterior lights (headlights, tail lights, etc.) are an a delayed shut off . I have not noticed if the interior lights stay on as well. I can check tonight after I pick my wife up from work.
#10
Hey Guys,
Tell me what you think of the following,
If fuse F2 is removed, drive over a few bumps and see if problem is still present..
If yes, rules out everything on page 1 of courtesy light diagram
If no, we know it is something in that diagram.
There could be something involving the SMJ box.
Why ? gets some of it's power supplied by ign sw..
What do you get if you give a jolt to the SMJ with the key on ? Lights come on, yes/no ?
Trying to find connection that lights come on when key is moved around.
We do know where the SMJ box is located , right ?
Tell me what you think of the following,
If fuse F2 is removed, drive over a few bumps and see if problem is still present..
If yes, rules out everything on page 1 of courtesy light diagram
If no, we know it is something in that diagram.
There could be something involving the SMJ box.
Why ? gets some of it's power supplied by ign sw..
What do you get if you give a jolt to the SMJ with the key on ? Lights come on, yes/no ?
Trying to find connection that lights come on when key is moved around.
We do know where the SMJ box is located , right ?
Last edited by hanky; Yesterday at 09:15 PM.
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