I have read several previous post here regarding similar issues and some seem to point to the starter.
The Issue:
When turning the ignition switch to start the truck, all you get is the dash lights on, the starter relay click and another relay under the left hand side of the dash click. The starter does nothing...
I replaced the battery as it has been going downhill for some time. This did not correct the problem. I checked all the fuses and relay's at the left hand side of the dash and under the hood. I tapped on the starter and solenoid. I also attempted to start the truck in neutral and manually slightly rotated the engine to ensure it is not stuck. You can feel one of the relays click when trying to start the engine and also swapped a couple relays (same P/N) to see if it would help.
I placed a DVM across the battery post during a start "attempt" and found there is no voltage drop when trying to start the engine. The voltage never drops below 12.39 volts.

Is the starter next to be suspect problem or is there something being I am forgetting? If the starter is the problem, during a start wouldn't the battery drain be higher thus having a higher voltage drop?

This truck seems to be getting rebuilt piece by piece.

Thanks in advance!!!
romeodz

 

One check you did not mention is, confirming that you are getting voltage down to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position. If you are, it can be one of three things, the starter lost it's ground, or the solenoid on the starter is defective or the starter has an internal problem (stuck brush). Of course if you are not getting voltage to the solenoid when in the start position you need to check the ignition switch or the wiring to the solenoid. Easy checks takes about 1 minute, Depending on your results will determine your next course of action. You can always toss the checks to the wind, but it's not a good feeling if you replace the starter and still have the same problem.

 

I haven't purchased a manual for this truck and hate to ask a simple question. Where is the starter solenoid located on the 99 Ranger 4.0? Is it attached to the top of the starter or somewhere else? By pictures i find online of the solenoid it looks different that what is on the starter?
I also just realized I have not checked the starter replay.


Thanks
romeodz

 

Any help appreciated!!!
Removed the starter and had it tested (good). Jumped the main (large) starter cables and have 12 volts. Then jumped large negative cable and small red wire that goes to the starter solenoid. Turned the ignition and nothing. Am I checking this correctly? Is this pointing to the ignition switch now?
This truck does not have the remote relay. It is in the fuse box under the hood. It is clicking and I have swapped it with others in the fuse box without any luck.
Is there a way to bypass the safety switch in the auto tranny for trouble shooting?

Thanks
romeodz

 

I am not clear on just what you are doing when you describe "jumping". If you have removed the starter, does it have a solenoid mounted on it?
If it does, the small wire that was connected to that solenoid(relay) should get voltage applied to it when you turn the key to the start position with the selector in park. Does it?

 

With everything as originally connected, if you place the voltmeter red lead on that small red wire and your black test lead on the battery negative terminal it should get voltage applied to it when you turn the key to the start position. Does it?
From what you have described as the starter being OK most likely there is no voltage getting to that red wire. That leaves the range selector switch (neutral safety switch) or the ignition switch as the possible problem. If everything is installed and connected, and the vehicle in PARK, touch a piece of wire from the positive battery post to the red wire terminal on the solenoid , the starter should engage and start the engine. You must have the parking brake applied and the vehicle in PARK and the wheels chocked when doing this or the vehicle could start and move if anyplace other than PARK. Please be careful when attempting this.!!!! If you are not exactly clear on this ,don't attempt it !!

 

Connecting a DVM to the battery cables is what I was referring to as "jumping".

Answering your questions:
When the DVM pos lead is connected to the small red wire at the starter and the DVM black lead is connected to the batt neg terminal and the ignition switch in "start" position the meter stays at 0 volts (no power to the solenoid).
When connecting a wire between the small red wire at the starter, then selecting the ignition switch to the run position and then touching the other end of the wire to the batt pos terminal does turn the engine over but it doesn't start?
Also now I don't here the relay under the hood click when trying to start or turn the ign switch on?
All to this was done with the transmission in park.
Any ideas now?

ALso, does anyone have a diagram (mapping) of the fuses? I dont have a service manual and don't see it in the Haynes manual just purchased.

Thanks so much for your help!
romeodz

 

Everything is alright except that you are not getting voltage out of the ignition switch.
Now you need to chase down on the positive side , from the battery to the fuse panel, from the panel to the ign switch. If you have voltage going into the ign switch, but not out when you turn the key to start, I would strongly suspect the switch assembly itself.
You have confirmed the starting system is functioning but the vehicle is lacking voltage from the switch to the ignition system and starting system.
Does anything work that is controlled by the key being on?
If not , now all you need to do is find the path the voltage uses to get to the switch.
I don't have a wiring diagram to assist in this , but there has to be an open in the line somewhere. Does the vehicle have any kind of anti-theft system that may be causing this?
Just take your volt meter and check both sides of every fuse and if you find one that reads voltage on one side , but not the other, that fuse is defective.
Some will not give any reading because they may be controlling lites etc.
Last ,but not least , the range selector (neutral safety) switch on the trans could be the problem.

 

Everything inside the truck works when the switch is turned (lights, instruments lights, radio, etc). I don't here the relays click now though in the fuse box under the hood.
I would assume the switch has power to it with the instrument lights, etc working when the switch is turned on.
Then like you said, an open in the start circuit. One concern, the first day the truck quit the relays were clicking and now they are not (#8 & 9)? Come to think of it, I believe only #9 relay (last relay in the fuse box) you could feel clicking. Are several of these relays connected to the start circuit?
Anti-theft - The truck does have a factory system installed. (theft light blinks when truck is shut off). Would i just be looking for a loose ground or broken wire.
Range selector (neutral safety) - Is this an external switch on the transmission (easily replaceable) or possibly bypass it for trouble shooting?
Does the fuse box have a common ground? Would that be something to check for?

Thanks
romeodz

 

The fuse panel is a distribution network for voltage supply to everything that is protected by a fuse. There may be a ground side available for certain relays.
Not having access to a diagram this is what I would do.
Determine the terminal at the ignition switch that gets voltage when you turn the key to the start position. Get the color of the wire connected to that terminal and see if you can find the same color at the range switch that could be located on the trans.
See if that same wire has voltage down there when turned to the start position.
If yes, it should go down to the starter relay or to the relay in the fuse panel.
If no,look for break in wire or loose connection.
I almost forgot the anti-theft system. Not that familiar with them. Maybe someone with more experience with them could help here.
It's always a good practice to check all grounds.
I have the feeling the anti-theft system is involved here since you have two things not happening, no start action and no ignition.