Alt and belt change
#3
RE: Alt and belt change
Hey, thanks for the responce.
It does have the serpentine belt.
3 bolts that mount the alt solid, no adjustment.
There appears to be 2 idler pullies, but the one on the right side seems to be the one I would need to loosen. Just how is it done? Can I use a pry bar to release tention? [&:]
It does have the serpentine belt.
3 bolts that mount the alt solid, no adjustment.
There appears to be 2 idler pullies, but the one on the right side seems to be the one I would need to loosen. Just how is it done? Can I use a pry bar to release tention? [&:]
#4
RE: Alt and belt change
O.K., I stepped out on my own here,......
I loosened the torx bolt that holds the tentioner, but no tention release. Do I have to completely remove the tentioner? [&:]
Once the changeover is complete, how would I reset the tention?
Sure could use some help. [&o]
I loosened the torx bolt that holds the tentioner, but no tention release. Do I have to completely remove the tentioner? [&:]
Once the changeover is complete, how would I reset the tention?
Sure could use some help. [&o]
#5
RE: Alt and belt change
well when i had to do this on my 95 f250 there was one idler pully that when you put a wrench on it and put enough pressure on it it would acctually move the whole pulley and would release tension. so it worked like a prybar but i would try this way first.
#6
RE: Alt and belt change
I recieved a responce from a PM I sent to one of the members.
' Most of the tensioners now have a square punched/cast area through the tensioner arm to install the release tool (3/8 ratchet/breaker bar ect).. If I remember correctly on some the older units,, if there's no tool install slot you can use the torx head (some were 15mm bolt head ect.) out on the tensioner idler pulley as the pull back point.. Been a long time!! but some of them were left hand thread to make it possible to put release pressure against the arm without breaking the torx bolt loose, as well as a rotation counter affect....'
What I foundhere...
loosen the torx head bolt, a T-47, and found the 'square hole' that took a 3/8 drive ratchet. Using leverage, Iwould beable to get the whole arm to pivot, thereby loosening the tention on the belt.
I now could remove the belt from the alt pully.
You do have to keep pressure on the ratchet to keep the belt loose until you can remove the belt from any of the pullys. The arm that holds the pully is spring loaded for a certain amount of pressure to keep the belt tight.
To reinstall, I'll just pry the pully back and install the belt back in place. Heck, ain't nuthin to it.
Thanks again guys.
' Most of the tensioners now have a square punched/cast area through the tensioner arm to install the release tool (3/8 ratchet/breaker bar ect).. If I remember correctly on some the older units,, if there's no tool install slot you can use the torx head (some were 15mm bolt head ect.) out on the tensioner idler pulley as the pull back point.. Been a long time!! but some of them were left hand thread to make it possible to put release pressure against the arm without breaking the torx bolt loose, as well as a rotation counter affect....'
What I foundhere...
loosen the torx head bolt, a T-47, and found the 'square hole' that took a 3/8 drive ratchet. Using leverage, Iwould beable to get the whole arm to pivot, thereby loosening the tention on the belt.
I now could remove the belt from the alt pully.
You do have to keep pressure on the ratchet to keep the belt loose until you can remove the belt from any of the pullys. The arm that holds the pully is spring loaded for a certain amount of pressure to keep the belt tight.
To reinstall, I'll just pry the pully back and install the belt back in place. Heck, ain't nuthin to it.
Thanks again guys.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post