I've got the following symptoms in my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT:

- Losing coolant
- overheating
- no heat

Several months ago it developed a small leak in the cooling system, I added a small amout of stop leak and the problem went away for a while. A few weeks ago I noticed the leak was back and it started running hot. I replaced the radiator cap and the thermostat and the problem seamed to go away. Now I am overheating again because the coolant level went down without any apparent leak. Also, there is no heat from the blower?!? Anyone know what's going on??

 

I would replace the radiator with a new or reconditioned one, I wouldn't use stop leak,only if you plan on replacing the radiator if you need to use it.
Also replace the hoses, when doing so, flush the system, you can use a garden hose, flush the new radiator, then fill it with clear water, run the engine for a little while so the thermastat opens and lets the water in the engine. then shut it down. let it cool down for about an hour, then drain the radiator, and pull the bottom hose with the cap off, to drain the water from the engine. " Remember to be carfull removing the cap when hot, do it slowly and with a rag". Now fill with 50/50 antifreeze leave cap off, run engine so the thermastat opens," it may take a while with the cap off" continue to fill radiator as fluid goes down. also fill overfill tank to the cold line. put cap on. shut it down. now you'll have to let any air bubbles out of radiator, by letting some fluid out of the drain on bottom of rad, or a valve by the thermastat. Let cool, refill rad. drive it for a while, with the heat on," oh yea while you are running the engine with the clear water and later with the 50/50 make sure you have the heat on, so fluid goes through the heater core". Check the next day and fill to top. I had this problem I needed to flush the system.

 

After replacing the radiator, and flushing the system. If you are still loosing fluid, the you may have a leaking intake or head gasket. usually you can tell by checking the oil, if it smells like antifreeze, or you will be blowing out white smoke after the engine has warmed up and driven for a little while, but you still can be leaking fluid into the oil, a small leak may be hard to detect at first., good luck , hopfully you can get it fixed with just a new radiator and a flush, these trucks its important to get the air out of the radiator, and for it to be full to the top!

 

when you take oil filler cap off...is there milky buildup? this could help spot moisture inside crankcase....

double check the plastic overflow reservior for cracks...fluid could leak from there when radiator heats up and overflows a little (which is normal)

check hoses

 

Also check for a leak at the "WHEEP HOLE" on the bottom of the water pump. There is normally a small hole in the botton of the water pump that will start leaking when the pump bearings are worn. If the leak is small enough, the fluid will be dissipated while driving and never drip down underneath the vehicle.

***NOTE***
If you have antifeeze leaking into your crankcase, make sure you change the oil as soon as possible. It only takes about a tablespoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) mixing and reacting with the oil additives to cause your oil to gel up like grease causing lubrication failure.

 

No heat is a know 3.0 Liter water pump failure/failing indicator whether or not you see coolant at the wheep hole. The impellers degrade and do not pump enough coolant. Also be aware that our coolant systems have issues with air pockets due to the height of the return hose being above the fill cap. When you do any coolant system workamke sure you let it run until it is full warm and the fluid is moving before topping of and capping it off.

 

he is right. known concern