Mom came over for Christmas, had a great time then when it was time to depart she sat outside in her Taurus for 10 minutes, HMM? I thought, I went out and she said it had been difficult to start the past 6 months that if she "wiggles" the ignition "just right" it will work, well after 30 minutes I had to do something.....My mistake
I attempted to jump her as I figured it "had to be the battery" running low. No diffence, all it does is click in 3 locations, one in part number F6SF-12B577-AA which is located next to the battery, then also clicked in the fuse box area then "somewhere" over behind the passengers headlight..Well I bought a new battery installed, no different results, same clicking,... Went to Schucks bought a new starter then my buddy neighbor came down and with a screw driver showed me how to test out the starter by touching it to the positive and other post on the celinoid (sp). It grinded like it was trying to spin to start.....
This is where I stand at current, I dont know if the starter is bad or some other part....

Please any ideas, we (or Mom) can not afford to have it towed to a shop or I would not have "invested" my last holiday off on her little "ignition jiggle"

I thank you for any advice and or input.

Keeper

 

Anyone????

 

UPDATE !!!
Ok I replaced a brand new Battery and took the starter off and had it checked out at the local auto store
They sent me home with a Starter fuse of some sort, I am wondering where th eheck it plugs in or which to replace.

YOu guys have been so helpful to this point I know I couldnt have done it with out you guys

THANKS AGAIN
anyway, the one I have has no numbers that look remotely close to either of the two, the numbers atop are FOAB 14B192-AA 6H05 00556 AND FOAB 14B192-AA 6H05 00570 i KNOW IT REPLACES ONE OF THESE TWO, IF (oops) anyone could go that extra step as you all have done so far, its what makes this forum so cool, is the combined knowledge the group here has and shared... whoa pretty profound but I digress

thanks again.
I can send an email picture if that helps

once again, the power of numbers kicks a@@!!!!!

 

By jumping the solenoid and hearing a slow grinding noise, plus all the clicks when you turn the key, I'd say you're looking a worn out starter motor. The clicks are relays and solenoids applying power to getthe starter motor powered up. A lack of clicks would be a sign of something tougher to figure out. Put a starter in it and should be good to go.

 

Well I installed a new one and had the old one tested.. same results, just clicks.......

the clicks come from the fuse box and part number F6SF-12B57 i HAVE NO IDEA NO!!!!!!!!!!!

ANY IDEAS?

 

I took the starter to two different shops and it tested "good" at both locations....

any ideas I greatly appreciate, Napa keeps trying to sell me a second seleanoid which they say is nounted on the firewall, I can not trace any wires to it, and think they are mistaken on which year this is, the Positive cable from Battery only goes directly to the seleanoid on the starter

 

Thanks to ALL OF YOU (one reply) who assisted in this brilliant meeting of the minds....

she has now been towed off to a pro, for real help.

When I am in need of a ride to the hospital for open heart surgery this will be the first forum I turn to

Certain death

~~~Keeper OUT~~

 

With the new starter, jumping the solenoid from the small terminal to the big one with the battery positive cable, do you still get the slow grind sound? (the firewall mounted solenoid they're talking about doesn't apply to your car, btw)

When you turn the key, do you hear a click from the starter itself?

If you have a voltmeter. Remove the small wire on the starter and check voltage to the terminal with the key in Start position (as if to crank). If you're getting battery voltage there you'll want to check both the main power and ground cables from the battery. If you can have a shop load test each cable it would be great. You could have a ground cable loose, one or both cables corroded causing high resistance. Clean the battery terminals. Clean up any ground connections to the engine and body. Make sure the positive connection to the starter is clean.

On the uglier side.... Pull the spark plugs and see if it cranks over then. If it does, and water comes shooting out of the plug holes, you'll want to think about getting another engine. I've seen to many times where a mechanic has decided to replace the headgaskets after a hydro-locked 3.0 only to find that the pressure of the water has bent one or more connecting rods.

...Get an 18 mm deep socket and ratchet. Try to turn the engine clockwise. If you can't turn it by hand, the engine may have siezed. Again, consider another engine.

I wish you the best of luck.

 

nO CLICK FROM THE STARTER AT ALL (OOPS)

Only from the aboved mentioned part, and the fuse/relay box.

It doesnt get power to the starter, basics were ruled out first then hardware was tested as it sould be (in other words) No shorting outs and all good solid connections

BTW, how did we get to a seized engine from a bad starter? Are you saying that no power getting to the starter could be because the engine is seized?

I do GREATLY appreciate any/your input, ya just made a HUGE jump there for me to follow

 

That's the starter alright. Hit it with a hammer and sometimes it will start a few more times.