ABS, VAPS and circuit problems
#1
ABS, VAPS and circuit problems
I just bought a 1999 Ford Taurus SE a few weeks ago. It drives quite well for its age and miles (153k) other than some minor problems. I already took it to get the oil change and have it checked (standard under the hood check during an oil change) and they checked my brakes since I told them the steering wheel was shaking when braking. They said it was all good. The only thing they did was change the fuel filter (which I could tell a difference in the driving) and the air filter.
However, the ABS light is on and has been since I bought it. No other lights are on. I did a OBDII scan and it came back with this:
Code: C1095 - Pump Motor Circuit Failure
This code is set when the hydraulic pump motor has an open, short to ground or battery.
This DTC may be caused by :
Low voltage to the module.
Damaged or contaminated connector
---------------------
For the GEM check it came back these codes:
Code: B1371 - Interior Courtesy Lamp Relay circuit failure (The lights inside the car work, so not sure about this?)
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Interior Courtesy Lamp Relay circuit failure
===END DTC B1371===
===DTC C1899===
Code: C1899 - VAPS circuit short to battery
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
VAPS circuit short to battery
===END DTC C1899===
===DTC P1883===
Code: P1883 - Low Coolant Lamp circuit failure (this light isn't on)
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Low Coolant Lamp circuit failure
--- Possible Causes --------
3.0L 4V only ------------
- Open circuit between Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & Power Distribution Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & GEM
-Short to GND between Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & GEM
-Suspect Fuse Low Coolant Indicator Lamp Generic Electronic Module (GEM)
-Otherwise Disregard this DTC, no action is necessary
Since all of these problems are circuit (fuses?) related, I am guessing easy and hopefully kind of cheap to fix? I just don’t know where to look on the car, what parts to get to fix any of this. I don’t know much about cars, just from what I have been reading on the internet. For these particular problems, I cannot find anything online about it.
However, the ABS light is on and has been since I bought it. No other lights are on. I did a OBDII scan and it came back with this:
Code: C1095 - Pump Motor Circuit Failure
This code is set when the hydraulic pump motor has an open, short to ground or battery.
This DTC may be caused by :
Low voltage to the module.
Damaged or contaminated connector
---------------------
For the GEM check it came back these codes:
Code: B1371 - Interior Courtesy Lamp Relay circuit failure (The lights inside the car work, so not sure about this?)
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Interior Courtesy Lamp Relay circuit failure
===END DTC B1371===
===DTC C1899===
Code: C1899 - VAPS circuit short to battery
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
VAPS circuit short to battery
===END DTC C1899===
===DTC P1883===
Code: P1883 - Low Coolant Lamp circuit failure (this light isn't on)
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Low Coolant Lamp circuit failure
--- Possible Causes --------
3.0L 4V only ------------
- Open circuit between Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & Power Distribution Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & GEM
-Short to GND between Low Coolant Indicator Lamp & GEM
-Suspect Fuse Low Coolant Indicator Lamp Generic Electronic Module (GEM)
-Otherwise Disregard this DTC, no action is necessary
Since all of these problems are circuit (fuses?) related, I am guessing easy and hopefully kind of cheap to fix? I just don’t know where to look on the car, what parts to get to fix any of this. I don’t know much about cars, just from what I have been reading on the internet. For these particular problems, I cannot find anything online about it.
#2
A good part of the time when we get several unrelated codes there is a poor connection in the power or ground systems.
You might start with cleaning the battery cable connections and the negative cable connection to the engine/chassis sheet metal. If you are not familiar with with vehicles and what to expect you might do some more reading up to gain some addl knowledge.
When you remove any of the battery cables from the battery or any other part of the vehicle you can lose some things in the computer's memory like radio stations that are preset , memory seat, mirrors etc. The vehicle may even run funny until it relearns your driving habits.
One word of caution, always disconnect the negative battery cable first and wait a few minutes before starting any checks and when done make sure to reinstall the negative cable on the battery last.
You might start with cleaning the battery cable connections and the negative cable connection to the engine/chassis sheet metal. If you are not familiar with with vehicles and what to expect you might do some more reading up to gain some addl knowledge.
When you remove any of the battery cables from the battery or any other part of the vehicle you can lose some things in the computer's memory like radio stations that are preset , memory seat, mirrors etc. The vehicle may even run funny until it relearns your driving habits.
One word of caution, always disconnect the negative battery cable first and wait a few minutes before starting any checks and when done make sure to reinstall the negative cable on the battery last.
#4
If I were to ask for a classic pix of a problem in the making , your pix are great.
It does look as if somebody has had some problems previously too ! Now that you know what to do you could start with some baking soda and water to neutralize the corrosion and after it dries clean those terminals with a wire brush. Both the battery posts and the cable ends that clamp to the posts. Not sure how familiar you are with autos, but it's easy to do as long as you remember to start with removing the negative (-) cable first, do all your cleaning then assemble in reverse order. The last cable to be connected to the battery should be the negative cable. From your pix it is the one that has been removed and a temporary cable end installed. They work but require cleaning a lot more often. There are additive coverings that you could apply over the connections to seal out contact with air and moisture, but I have found it is better to leave then dry and check them regularly because the substance blocks your view to the real connection to see if it has corroded any. It is called dielectric grease.
It does look as if somebody has had some problems previously too ! Now that you know what to do you could start with some baking soda and water to neutralize the corrosion and after it dries clean those terminals with a wire brush. Both the battery posts and the cable ends that clamp to the posts. Not sure how familiar you are with autos, but it's easy to do as long as you remember to start with removing the negative (-) cable first, do all your cleaning then assemble in reverse order. The last cable to be connected to the battery should be the negative cable. From your pix it is the one that has been removed and a temporary cable end installed. They work but require cleaning a lot more often. There are additive coverings that you could apply over the connections to seal out contact with air and moisture, but I have found it is better to leave then dry and check them regularly because the substance blocks your view to the real connection to see if it has corroded any. It is called dielectric grease.
#5
Wanted to update about the ABS. The 40 amp fuse was blown so I replaced it and the light went off and no error codes are found.
Also I found about the VAP code from here is:
Also I found about the VAP code from here is:
Variable Assist Power Steering - All 1999 model year Taurus/Sables (except SHO) may exhibit false DTCs C1898, C1899, and C1928. The system has changed from an electronic to a mechanically-controlled system. The SHO is still using an electronic system.
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