Facts: 1999 Ford Taurus SE Wagon, Driverside Control Arm, and 35th street concrete curb.


I plowed in to a curb at a forty-five degree angle with the steering all the way to the right. Black magic black ice the cause.

The wheel ($100 at boneyard) and the control armgot shot.

So I decide to tackle the control arm since I can save $200 by doing it myself over what the lowest bid would be (mostly because I bought a used part, but still saving $75 in labor).

The controll arm is oddling shaped andnot easy toremove like anything I have worked with before. Having to use a puller to separate the ball joint and all.

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Here is where I am stuck hence the initiation of this thread:

The rear mounting bolt:I am not successful in removing it. I put the impact gun with an impact U-Joint and extensions on the head of the bolt (the nut is not accessible for both a socket and a handle); the bolt does not budge--as if it is welded to the subframe.


Tomorrow when I am fresh, I am probably just going to MAPP gas the $&#(@'er off since it is no good anyway.


I am just curious how those of you that do not get their @sses kicked by Ford vehicles would remove this bolt. I am also curious how you get an accurate torque on it since the U-Joint to the bolt head is the only way I see to get to this fastener.


All responses appreciated.

 

I just replaced the control arm and the ball joint on my taurus it was a pain!!! sorry to say the impact gun doesnt work to well we had to just use leaverage and as far as getting the arm out we had to saw it in half unless you want to take the whole spindel off and i dont know if you have to replace the ball joint or not but if you do mail me back and ill give you step by steps.

 

Thank you for the reply. Yes, I have a whiz-wheel--I will just cut it off and save the $11.00 on MAPP gas.


The junk yard warned me about how tough it would be to get off but I had no idea. I never thought I would run in to a car that would be more difficult to work on than my Probe. Such a **** poor design for this bolt.

I ain't wrenching this bolt off. If my 400 ft/lb gun cannot get it, how am I suppose to crack it with justa 8" long wrench?

Thanks for the idea of cutting it off---I bought the whiz-wheel to cut rusted stablizer linkage off me Probe.


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I am going to try an use the ball joint and spindle--they both appear unharmed. I am out $180 so far with this curb thing, and if I have to surrender it to a shop, I shall be force to surrender another $100-150 minimum.


Cheers to you and yours