Head gasket please help
#1
10-13-2010 | 08:12 AM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
Head gasket please help
i have a major dillema. i have a 97 taurus gl ohv 3.0l. i have replaced the head gasket 3 times in two weeks. everytime i do it it will run fine for an hour or so then it starts leaking. here is my process.
1. remove all parts and take cylinder head off ( the head gasket that leaks is one in the front of the engine )
2. clean block,head,intake
3. assemble head onto block.
i have tried replacing the gasket by just cleaning the block and head really good, didnt work, then i tried using coppertop, didnt work.
i do not remove the intake manifold and also there are two dowels that are on the block that i am not using. when i pull everything apart again i dont see anyplace on the gaskets where the leak is occuring. i torque the bolts in the order that the manual says. it is a brand new cylinder head and the block is fine, the car never overheated. i clean the block and head with 1000 or 2000 grit sandpaper. i do not use the dowels because the tolerances are to tight so i took them out. i am certain the gaskets are not moving when i assemble everything. new bolts and gaskets are used every time.
is there any info anyone can give me, do i need the dowels, when installing the intake to head gasket do i need to use any gasketmaker ( i havent been except for the one time i used coppertop )
do i need to remove the intake manifold
does anyone have a step by step manual or advice on how to fix this or how to know where its leaking. i use autozones online manual currently
i torque the head bolts to 70lbs. how much room for error is there when torquing the bolts.
on the intake manifold ther are 4 torx bolts that go into the head, what is the torque supposed to be for those.
ANY real help would be appreciated
1. remove all parts and take cylinder head off ( the head gasket that leaks is one in the front of the engine )
2. clean block,head,intake
3. assemble head onto block.
i have tried replacing the gasket by just cleaning the block and head really good, didnt work, then i tried using coppertop, didnt work.
i do not remove the intake manifold and also there are two dowels that are on the block that i am not using. when i pull everything apart again i dont see anyplace on the gaskets where the leak is occuring. i torque the bolts in the order that the manual says. it is a brand new cylinder head and the block is fine, the car never overheated. i clean the block and head with 1000 or 2000 grit sandpaper. i do not use the dowels because the tolerances are to tight so i took them out. i am certain the gaskets are not moving when i assemble everything. new bolts and gaskets are used every time.
is there any info anyone can give me, do i need the dowels, when installing the intake to head gasket do i need to use any gasketmaker ( i havent been except for the one time i used coppertop )
do i need to remove the intake manifold
does anyone have a step by step manual or advice on how to fix this or how to know where its leaking. i use autozones online manual currently
i torque the head bolts to 70lbs. how much room for error is there when torquing the bolts.
on the intake manifold ther are 4 torx bolts that go into the head, what is the torque supposed to be for those.
ANY real help would be appreciated
#2
11-10-2010 | 10:12 PM
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
how can you take the head off an not take the intake off it mounts to the head sounds like your intake gasket is leaking and the dowel pins keep the head placed over the gasket and block where it needs to be and if your intake is not leaking get a yard stick and test the block and the head flip the head over put the thin side of the yard stick down on the head an move from spark plug hole to intake hole there should be no space on the flat spots between the stick an head if you have a space your gasket is not seating your head needs machined but if you have a space on your block it will have to be pulled out an machined as well
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