Where is the Computer Located 2004 Taurus
#1
Where is the Computer Located 2004 Taurus
Have an issue that just started this winter after owning the car now for 4 winters.
Seems when it's really cold out, I start the engine and several idiot lights stay lit and I have no odometer or fuel computer readings. I shut off the engine and restart. I get the chimes, the idiot lights go out and I have my odometer and fuel computer readings, but my average MPG reading has been dumped and it recalculates from the beginning like it has been reset.
Once I tried starting the engine and I got the same issue, so I turned the key off only to hear a chattering with the key off and when I looked at the tach, it was vibrating to the chatter at the "0" reading and bouncing on its peg. I tried starting the car and it churned a little before starting and then fired up with all lights going out after the chimes and the fuel computer readings zeroed but alive.
Now I notice about a 10 second delay to where my gages come alive after the engine starts. I now turn on the key, let the dash settle in, turn off the key....turn on the key and start. Everything is OK except the fuel computer is zeroed and the gages come alive in a bout 5 seconds. That includes the tach.
Figured I have a cold sensitive connection and want to re seat the plug on the computer.
I don't know where it's located. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Seems when it's really cold out, I start the engine and several idiot lights stay lit and I have no odometer or fuel computer readings. I shut off the engine and restart. I get the chimes, the idiot lights go out and I have my odometer and fuel computer readings, but my average MPG reading has been dumped and it recalculates from the beginning like it has been reset.
Once I tried starting the engine and I got the same issue, so I turned the key off only to hear a chattering with the key off and when I looked at the tach, it was vibrating to the chatter at the "0" reading and bouncing on its peg. I tried starting the car and it churned a little before starting and then fired up with all lights going out after the chimes and the fuel computer readings zeroed but alive.
Now I notice about a 10 second delay to where my gages come alive after the engine starts. I now turn on the key, let the dash settle in, turn off the key....turn on the key and start. Everything is OK except the fuel computer is zeroed and the gages come alive in a bout 5 seconds. That includes the tach.
Figured I have a cold sensitive connection and want to re seat the plug on the computer.
I don't know where it's located. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
#5
It seems now to have morphed into just zeroing out my average MPG reading on my trip computer. The odometer and the trip odometer are OK. Just the MPG gets reset. I did have several idiot lights stay on once when it was warmed up, though.
Is the trip computer run by the GEM module?
Is the trip computer run by the GEM module?
#6
I was having the same problem with my 2007...tach and other needle guages bouncing on their pegs for a few seconds even after the car started. Also the MPG was reset, odometer & trip okay, radio stations stayed, but volume was reset.
I live in Minnesota and it was about 10 below when this happened. I just assumed is was my not-so-good battery not having enough juice in it in the cold to power everything at start-up.
My car will also start and die in any temp under 25 above. The second try it starts right up and runs fine. I was told that's the idle air control valve but haven't got around to replacing it. Does yours do that at all? Maybe it's all one big problem.
I live in Minnesota and it was about 10 below when this happened. I just assumed is was my not-so-good battery not having enough juice in it in the cold to power everything at start-up.
My car will also start and die in any temp under 25 above. The second try it starts right up and runs fine. I was told that's the idle air control valve but haven't got around to replacing it. Does yours do that at all? Maybe it's all one big problem.
#7
Idle air controllers don't always have to be replaced.....check it for proper operation first and the clean it if it is stuck...
check mechanical function.....remove from engine and leave wire harness connected....turn ignition off and on (no need to start engine) and look inside the IAC Does the piston move? It wont move much...just enough to close the bypass..
If its stuck..spray it with carb cleaner to remove carbon deposits and then lube it with some WD40 or spray lube....then free it up gently with a screwdriver.....dont use a lot of force...just enoung to help the piston start moving and free up...
good luck....
check mechanical function.....remove from engine and leave wire harness connected....turn ignition off and on (no need to start engine) and look inside the IAC Does the piston move? It wont move much...just enough to close the bypass..
If its stuck..spray it with carb cleaner to remove carbon deposits and then lube it with some WD40 or spray lube....then free it up gently with a screwdriver.....dont use a lot of force...just enoung to help the piston start moving and free up...
good luck....
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