How can one tell if the engine in a 1960 bird is a "Cleveland" engine? And why is that a good engine?

 

If its the original engine, its not a cleveland. The 351 Cleveland was not available until 1970. It is most likely a 352 FE which is the same engine family as the 390, 406, 427, & 428.

 

Thank you, sir. I appreciate the info. My stepson may purchase this "square bird" this week with plans to clean it up for resale. I have no clue as to what one might be worth in fair shape. The chrome on it (bunches as you know) have been painted black, but he does not see rust under the paint. I suppose we will strip the paint to see if it is in any shape to leave unpainted.

 

Thanks again. I have had triuble finding just the basic info about the engine. Tune up specs would be nice if you have a suggestion as to where to find such info.

I see that it has a vacuum advance pot in the distributoer. Points, rotor, condensor, cao appear new. The vac pot is not new. Since the thing seems to "bog' on take off, could it be a problem with the vac pot? Since acelerating reduces vacuum, maybe the iginition is too retarded? I guess the old "twist the distributor until something good happens" is the next step. I also favor using an old chevvy small block trick which is to ignore the initial timing specs, set the initial timing with the vac pot plugged at 8-10*, then reattach the vac pot and lower the idle mechanically to a reasonable rpm.

 

Changing the timing is a bad idea. Just replace the vacuum advance or the distributor.

 

By the way - timing is always set with the vacuum advance (or electronic advance) plugged (never unplugged).

 

Goinstrong:

Thanks for the suggestions. Even after all these months. Actually, replacing the vac pot and/or distributor without knowing what the timing is to be set at seems to be a not very good idea. Especiallly if there is nothing wrong with either. It might be best to start with setting the points, checking the timing against specs and going from there. With a timing light, you can always set it back to where it started if it all goes south.

 

Sorry. I thought you had a timing light to know the vacuum advance wasn't operating correctly. Timing might be around 15 degrees BTC (Off the top of my head). I'm not positive though. Check timing with light (at idle (around 800-1000) and with advance plugged) then reconnect advance and rev engine. TIming should advance. If it doesn't the advance is shot. You can replace it - or (in some places where those parts are less available) you can buy the distributorwith it already attached sometimes (they love to make the extra buck). If you replace the distributor you have to know what you're doing to pre-set the timing. Crank it to just before number 1 - firing (just before TDC) before removal and mark where your rotor is firing number 1. Then you'll be set up if you know what to do. A timing light is necessary no matter what - and the older type timing light works better.

 

Not to intrude - but if you're in PA I'd be more than happy to help out. I can visually ID your engine and check parts like the vacuum advance. I only have a newer timing light but I can make it work the same most times.

 

More than likely it's you accelerator pump in the carb that is causing it to bog down. Easy fix if you can find one. I wouldn't mess with advancing the timing. Try using a vacuum guage to tell you how it is running.