I have an overheating/timing problem with a 351w after changing the cam (Crane). After the change 351 overheated in about 10 minutes. Drained and changed water/antifreeze, filling block first. No change. Timing was in the 8 to 10 degree BTDC like before change. Tried 4 water pumps, 4 thermostats, no thermostat. Rebuilt engine with new Comp cam. Cam is just a little above stock. Had nearly new Walker radiator cleaned 3 times, no change. Engine was gone through twice since rebuild, magnaflux for cracks both times, no change. Now the weird part.....The vacuum was low 6 inches...I advanced the distributor while looking at a vacuum gauge bringing vac to 17 inches....timing was at 40 degrees BTDC...had to lockdown centrifical advance down because it was going to 50 Degrees BTDC at higher rpm. With this set up I can drive around town with no heating problem....highway a different story. Runs hot above 50MPH. I tried degreeing cam and retarding cam 4 degrees, all that did was back total timing to 36 degrees no help above 50mph. I am running a MSD 6a ignition box and a MSD distributor... both have been replaced. Also running a high volume electric fan.....
Engine runs and starts good. The 351 is in a 1930 Ford with a C4 trans.............HELP...........
Walt
woford30@yahoo.com

 

So what happens when you run the timing around 10 degrees BTDC does it over heat?

 

It runs so hot it cooked the jet hot coating off the headers.......when I tried the timing advanced and it cooled down some I sent the headers to jet hot and had them recoated. Also when I back the timing back to 10 degrees I lose my power brakes (low vacuum to booster)...........as if I needed them. The car heats to about 250 in about 10 minutes. I know this sounds like BS.
I have tried everything I know. I was a mechanic/drag racer for many years and still build streetrods with Chevy drive trains. I am trying to keep this one all Ford...
I need some help from you Ford guys..............
Walt

 

I would think it is a timing problem causing the overheating.[hr]If you are running at 40 degrees BTDC This is where the heat is coming from.[hr]When the cylinder is fired at 40 degrees BTDC the cylinder wall is heating up causing the overheating.[hr]Cause when you went to 10 degrees the cylinder did not overheat that much.[hr]I know you tryed to retard the cam4 degrees but threw it off 36 degrees.[hr]It sounds like you need 36 degrees to get back to 10 degrees.[hr]Did you try to advance the cam 4 degrees?[hr]Also when advancing or retarding the cam the distributor might have to be reset.

 

When I go to 10 degrees it overheats so bad I can't drive it. At 40 degrees is the only I can drive it or at least around town. When I tried to retard the cam it was just to see what it would do. I agree it should be over heating at the present 40 degrees. Also it should be hard to start. When I was drag racing I ran this kind of timing and had to have a separate starter and ignition switch. I would have to crank the engine over and then turn on the ignition so it would run.

 

What about tech support for the cam.[hr] You may want to give them a call.[hr]It was fine before the cam right.

 

check your wiring, I had the same kind of problem on a 350, headers turned cherry red and set the rear brake lin on fire. Also make sure number 1 is on TDS on comp stroke.

 

I tried Crane tech support and the only comment was the cam is not the problem. The bad part is I took the crane cam out and put in a Comp cam in its place. The Comp is almost identical in specs. The Crane cam is a H-272-2. 484 intake, 512 exhaust, duration is 272 intake, 284 exhaust.
I know and hope that the problem is going to be simple but feeling dumb for missing it is going to be OK.
Walt

 

I hate to admit this but I have totally rewired the car with a Painless wiring harness. I took this time to put in new gauges so it wasn't a total loss.
Somewhere during all of this I had an engine shop rebuild the engine, plus they have been through it 2 more times. The guy that rebuilt it is a Ford drag racer and knows his Ford engines. Even he says it's not the cam.
Even though I have changed everything but the block and crank I still feel it is the cam or the balancer, but I changed both.............
The engine runs great even on the highway......just the heat and the timing.
This is my first streetrod with Ford running gear. Well except for the vette rearend.
Walt

 

Have you check to see if you have good water circulation. and if you can get hold of a heat gun check the heat difference at the top and the bottom of the radiator. Some of the water pumps I believe run in two different directions. Right hand and left hand rotation. is your front cover water pump and belt configuration from the same year.